Another Lowered Denali and 1/4 Mile Data

[Chert_Detective]

My main goal for this was to have enough drop to fill out the wheel wells with the M/Ts when I put them on and pull at least a 1.9X 60' on the street, maybe dip in to the 1.8 if I'm lucky. I'm not too concerned with being able to say "It's a X"/X" drop" so I didn't take any before measurements, but the front lip is ~4.5" from the ground lol.

Still waiting on the Spohn stuff to ship since PA is still closed down, so in the mean time I'm just running an ebay adjustable track bar for the NBS suvs.

IHC 5" front control arms with stock strut
IHC front sway bar endlinks
DJM 4" Trailblazer drop spring. I know guys use the 3" spring for ~5" rear drop.
DJM rear sway bar endlinks
Belltech bump stops
Heavy Metal adjustable panhard bar
QA1 single adjustable rear shocks

Spohn upper and lower adjustable rear arms will go on when they get here so I can better set pinion angle, along with swapping out the Heavy Metal panhard for the Spohn. I chose to do the IHC front because along with being a simple drop it allows for some nice options for welding on a tab on either side for front limiting straps. Keep the front from lifting and dial in the compression and rebound on the QA1s to get the squat where I want it.

I'll get some more pictures after the alignment and I'll test fit the Mickeys as well. The toe is all F$#@%& and the jam nuts are seized on the inner tierods so I need to pull them off the rack to break them loose and then bring the toe back in, THEN put it on the scales and align it.

 

[BADRIDES]

Looks good

 

[Chert_Detective]

For reference, here's the Dragy from a couple passes. This is on stock suspension, stock gears, and street tires. The G chart puts a good visual on how inefficient the stock setup is for launching and the first 300' or so. Representing how the wheel hop, tire bite, and bouncing front end looks as data. Who knew SUVs weren't made to launch . But once I dial in the new suspension and install the 4.10s, should be where I want everything.

 

[swathdiver]

You figuring about 530 HP or so at the wheels?

 

[BG1988]

My main goal for this was to have enough drop to fill out the wheel wells with the M/Ts when I put them on and pull at least a 1.9X 60' on the street, maybe dip in to the 1.8 if I'm lucky. I'm not too concerned with being able to say "It's a X"/X" drop" so I didn't take any before measurements, but the front lip is ~4.5" from the ground lol.

remember to take the drive way entrances at a 45 degree angle

 

[Chert_Detective]

You figuring about 530 HP or so at the wheels?

I honestly have no idea, once I get the alignment taken care of I'll see if I can find an awd dyno around here.

remember to take the drive way entrances at a 45 degree angle

Yeah everything I have is low. Thankfully my driveway and anywhere I normally travel is all relatively flat.

 

[swathdiver]

I honestly have no idea...

That's my guess if your race weight is 5,900 pounds.

forgive me if you know this already: Rear Wheel Horsepower = Race Weight * ((Trap Speed * 0.00426)^3)

 

[Chert_Detective]

That's my guess if your race weight is 5,900 pounds.

forgive me if you know this already: Rear Wheel Horsepower = Race Weight * ((Trap Speed * 0.00426)^3)

Yeah there's all kinds of calculators and formulas out there. So many different variables though. I just had a goal of running consistent 12 somethings before I put the twins on. That'll give me a chance to get the car set up while it's N/A and I know everything is working how it should before going forward.

 

[swathdiver]

Yeah there's all kinds of calculators and formulas out there. So many different variables though. I just had a goal of running consistent 12 somethings before I put the twins on. That'll give me a chance to get the car set up while it's N/A and I know everything is working how it should before going forward.

I've been using that one since the '80s, it tells you mathematically how much horsepower it is making at the rear wheels going through the traps in the quarter mile. None more accurate in my opinion and works wherever its tried.

 

[Chert_Detective]

I've been using that one since the '80s, it tells you mathematically how much horsepower it is making at the rear wheels going through the traps in the quarter mile. None more accurate in my opinion and works wherever its tried.

When I get it on the scales I'll plug it in and see what we get. I'm not judging the accuracy, I just mean there's too many variables. Unless the trap speed you see is 100% accurate, no tire spin, no left/right movement, no elevation gain or loss, etc. Which is hard to do. Especially going off a run that was as choppy in the first 300' as those two. With that formula my 591whp Cobalt only made 422whp apparently since it blew the tires off the front half even though it backhalfed a 36mph gain.

But like I said hp is just a number to me. Am I curious what it makes, absolutely. But only out of curiosity. It's not a make or break if it only makes 499 instead of 500 or more.