Anyone else install new shocks?

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latapx

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I just installed Bilstein 5100s on the front of my Suburban LT and then went to do the "easy end" only to find out that the top bolt is a little difficult to get to. It was dark and i was tired after doing the front shocks and front brakes and said screw it...I'll do the rear another day.

Anyone else replace the rear shocks that can give me some pointers on how to remove the upper bolt? lol

As a side note...the front end is MUCH more controlled now compared to the stock dampers. Definitely recommended.
 

Bxbound7595

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I just installed Bilstein 5100s on the front of my Suburban LT and then went to do the "easy end" only to find out that the top bolt is a little difficult to get to. It was dark and i was tired after doing the front shocks and front brakes and said screw it...I'll do the rear another day.

Anyone else replace the rear shocks that can give me some pointers on how to remove the upper bolt? lol

As a side note...the front end is MUCH more controlled now compared to the stock dampers. Definitely recommended.
Please let me know how is the ride comfort when you are finished i really want to replace my shocks also
 
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latapx

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So, after I went back to storage to get more tools I finished the job. The top bolt on the rear requires a socket and extension with a ratchet on the inside and then I used my cordless impact on the outside (wheel side). Once I figured out how to access the top bolt, installation was a breeze (as it should have been).

Now the ride..this is the way this damned car should ride from the factory. Now, take my comments with a grain of salt, I purchased my 2015 Suburban with 34K miles on the odometer. From day one, I found the ride to be very choppy, and not very controlled. The tires were the original Continentals (20" wheels) so the first thing I did was swap out tires to a make/model I had used before (GoodYear Wrangler SR-A). This improved the choppiness a bit, but the ride still...well...sucked. Any bump on a highway ramp would send the front end off the bump stops and pogo-ing down the road. Not very confidence inspiring to say the least. Any quick acceleration or braking would be met with massive nose dive and squat.

Enter the Bilstein 5100's. I had used The Bilstein HD's on a few trucks and decided to try the 5100's on my previous 2013 F-150 4x4 because I wanted to lift the front of the truck. I was impressed with them on the F-150 and decided to give them another go around. The biggest plus to the 5100 has to be the digressive valving. I might lose some folks here, but typical shocks have linear or progressive valving which means that as shock speeds go up, so does damping. For reference, think of low speed shock movements as nose dive under braking, body roll in cornering or undulations on the road. High speed shock movements would be potholes, seems in pavement, etc. With a digressive valving, the low speed damping starts higher (body motions are better controlled) but damping forces level off as shock speeds rise which allow the shock to absorb harsh impacts better. Difference over OEM is night and day.

If anyone has questions about the 5100's, feel free to reach out to me. As usual, i didn't take photos (which would have helped all others to have a "how to" posted) because I just attack the job and forget to document, but I'd be more than happy to answer questions about the install, etc.
 

Cha0s13

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Would these shocks work on a 2016 Tahoe if I dont want to raise it or lower it?
 
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latapx

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Would these shocks work on a 2016 Tahoe if I dont want to raise it or lower it?

Doubt that they'd work for lowering...The front shock has multiple positions on it that allows you to raise the front close to 2". The rear shocks are typically longer to accomodate a slight lift as well.
 

Kpwweb

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Doubt that they'd work for lowering...The front shock has multiple positions on it that allows you to raise the front close to 2". The rear shocks are typically longer to accomodate a slight lift as well.
They work for lowering and stock as well. They have a stock position.

I have them raised to the third groove (up 1.2") with a 2" lowering spring cup for a total drop of 1.25"--the math doesn't work out but that is where the front sits in real life--34.75" to fenderlip.

I agree the ride is awesome. I've used Bilstein for years and will continue to do so. Best shocks made.
 

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