Audio System Upgrade Thread 04 Tahoe

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P Dub

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awesome install.. u didnt have any voltage drop issue?.. when i did my system i had pretty bad voltage drop issues with a rockford p500.1 upgraded alt to a 250a externally regulated one and an extra 102ah battery in the rear
 
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04whitetahoe

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Nope

awesome install.. u didnt have any voltage drop issue?.. when i did my system i had pretty bad voltage drop issues with a rockford p500.1 upgraded alt to a 250a externally regulated one and an extra 102ah battery in the rear

Hey Pedro,

Thanks,

I don't have any voltage drop problems - I do have a 145 amp alternator, new AGM battery, Big 3 upgrade, big wires and don't run at full blast which might have something to do with it, but no voltage issues!! Glad for that!!

:D

---------- Post added at 07:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 AM ----------

Seeing your's makes me want to get my 5600 installed asap. Everything should be here Monday.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!! Joe
 
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ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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you should always have an alternator that produce more then enough current to power your stereo and all the vehicle accessories the only reason you should add a second battery is if you listen to the stereo with the vehicle off all the time assuming you have it isolated to it doesnt kill your vehicle battery if you only listen to the stereo when the cars on dont wire up a second battery all your doing is adding one more thing the alternator has to charge wich is going to be less current available for the vehicle or the stereo if you lacking in the current department always start with the alternator from what ive learned about alternators you wanna find out what the idle output current is alot claim 250 amps but thats like when you at 2000rpms
 

P Dub

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you should always have an alternator that produce more then enough current to power your stereo and all the vehicle accessories the only reason you should add a second battery is if you listen to the stereo with the vehicle off all the time assuming you have it isolated to it doesnt kill your vehicle battery if you only listen to the stereo when the cars on dont wire up a second battery all your doing is adding one more thing the alternator has to charge wich is going to be less current available for the vehicle or the stereo if you lacking in the current department always start with the alternator from what ive learned about alternators you wanna find out what the idle output current is alot claim 250 amps but thats like when you at 2000rpms

more batteries are required for when the amp draw is high for instance if you have a 10k system that draws 1k amps then you would need a big battery bank along with additional alts to charge them
 
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04whitetahoe

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Big 3, Wires, Alternator, Capacitor, Battery

you should always have an alternator that produce more then enough current to power your stereo and all the vehicle accessories the only reason you should add a second battery is if you listen to the stereo with the vehicle off all the time assuming you have it isolated to it doesnt kill your vehicle battery if you only listen to the stereo when the cars on dont wire up a second battery all your doing is adding one more thing the alternator has to charge wich is going to be less current available for the vehicle or the stereo if you lacking in the current department always start with the alternator from what ive learned about alternators you wanna find out what the idle output current is alot claim 250 amps but thats like when you at 2000rpms

more batteries are required for when the amp draw is high for instance if you have a 10k system that draws 1k amps then you would need a big battery bank along with additional alts to charge them

_____________________________________________________________

Hey Guys, from what it looks like in this reading:


http://community.crutchfield.com/car_audio_and_video/f/17/amplifiers/t/6013/dual-amps-dual-battery

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_electrical_basics/car_audio_electrical_basics.htm

http://cartech.about.com/od/Car-Aud...-Battery-For-My-High-End-Car-Audio-System.htm

http://www.makeitlouder.com/carstereo.html

http://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Multiple-Component-Car-Audio-System

_____________________________________________________________

The consensus looks like what Chris suggests, but there are also those who do use multiple batteries in their systems like Pedro is talking about.

Like so many things in life, there are differing opinions as to what you “need”.

There’s direct experience too – if you have dimming lights and add

1. “The big 3”
2. Bigger wires
3. High output alternator
4. Capacitor(s)
5. Batteries

And it fixes your problem, you’re set!

I have a 2000W system (I DO NOT CRANK IT - the amps are set on 50%) with a stock 145 Amp alternator, new AGM battery, big 3 upgrade, "0" gauge wiring and no issues with dimming.

It does seem like that would be the order of upgrade (starting at big 3) and chances are the issue would be fixed without needing to make ALL of those upgrades – but then again, that’s MY opinion!




:boti:
 
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YukonXL04

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It really depends on how much current your pulling. When I had my Sierra I had a 250A alt, yellow top under the hood, and a blue top under the sub box. All 0ga wiring. 2500w rms to my 2 15's. At idle I still had slight voltage drop. Had to bump it to 1k rpm when showing it off.
 

JonnyTahoe

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How is your stock alternator holding up ? I'm just starting my build today. You saved me lots of time, I'm just going to do two doors not all four. Did you have any problems with the door panels, did you snap off any tabs or have stuff not go back together right? I have already snapped off a plastic tab and I have just started. Some of this stuff was only designed to snap together not come apart. I did not build the truck so I can only guess how it comes apart.
 
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04whitetahoe

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Yep

How is your stock alternator holding up ? I'm just starting my build today. You saved me lots of time, I'm just going to do two doors not all four. Did you have any problems with the door panels, did you snap off any tabs or have stuff not go back together right? I have already snapped off a plastic tab and I have just started. Some of this stuff was only designed to snap together not come apart. I did not build the truck so I can only guess how it comes apart.

Hey Jon,

No alternator problems or electrical.

Yea, it's really easy to snap the plastic stuff. Take your time and once you see how it all works together, it goes easier. Use a set of nylon pry tools and know where your bolts are to get the door panels off.

On my passenger front door, I snapped plastic that held my window controls when prying out (BTW, it didn't need to come out at all). I used some good epoxy glue to fix that and it held just fine. On my model, I did not need to remove any controls or door lights before taking off the door panels. In a NBS "how to" (you tube) I ran across, they did. That's why I broke mine.

Once I had the panels off, I set the panel on some stacked boxes under the panel to hold it up while I disconnected the wiring to the controls and lights. This made it much easier than wrestling it without something to sit it on. It gives you the ability to step back, use good lighting and look carefully at what your doing.

Google around for your specific model to see how the stuff comes apart. If you have an 04, feel free to PM me to ask about how the panels come off - I've done it now several times and know what I'm doing on an 04 Tahoe.

Joe


:boti:
 

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