Bad water leak

[retiredsparky]

The use of o-rings in these parts is hard to justify for anyone except the factory. O-rings are a part that will shrink and leak. The plastic shrinks as well. There should be a scheduled replacement of these things every 10 years. Many GM suv's with the rear heat have small leaks that aren't noticed at this location.

 

[Brains646]

Well this has me a little confused. I thought my coolant loss was due to me needing a water pump but now I'm thinking differently. My symptoms are some condensation and white smoke on start up that goes away after a few mins, coolant loss and a miss at idle. I'm thinking the smoke is either normal water with a bit of extra fuel being dumped via closed loop warm up and the miss at idle is coming from running rich for some reason. Whats got me baffled is if the coolant has been leaking from the T fitting this whole time and it just got worse or if I'm leaking from the water pump too. I dont see any water under the truck so I'm stumped. I've already done a compression test and were good there and I dont have any water in the oil........Help?

 

[AppocAlexx]

I had this leak for about 2 weeks before I actually noticed where it was coming from. The very first time I noticed anything was when driving I could smell something burning. Looked around and around didn't find anything. After a few days I put the truck on a lift and looked everywhere, still nothing. Then a couple more days passed and the smell was worse and I came to stop at a light and saw some smoke coming from under my hood. Pulled over and looked around the pass side where the smoke was rising from from and with a little bit of wiggle test found that one of the fitting was leaking onto my exhaust manifold. It wasn't enough to park it but enough to take it a bit easier with the driving and only drove as minimal distance as possible. Ordered all parts and installed within the next couple days.

I feel that one of the other issues with this design is that where the hoses are held in place by the plastic fittings mounted to the engine. If they were relocated somewhere else in a place that does not move at all it would be a better fit for this set up. Also hate the "quick" disconnects and how deep the heater core connections are. I wish those engineers would have to do repairs on these trucks before they send them out for mass production.

 

[Brains646]

I had this leak for about 2 weeks before I actually noticed where it was coming from. The very first time I noticed anything was when driving I could smell something burning. Looked around and around did find anything. After a few days I put the truck on a lift and looked everywhere, still nothing. Then a couple more days passed and the smell was worse and I came to stop at a light and saw some smoke coming from under my hood. Pulled over and looked around the pass side where the smoke was coming from and with a little bit of wiggle test found that one of the fitting was leaking. It wasn't enough to park it but enough to take it a bit easier with the driving and only drove as minimal distance as possible. Ordered all parts and installed within the next couple days.

thats what got my attention. My low coolant light came on and I saw smoke from under the hood. The fitting was leaking on the valve cover and the coil.....wait............this might explain my miss at idle if it was leaking on the coil. The leak was like a sink faucet that was just barely open. More than a drip but less than a stream. Under way I bet there was enough pressure to either lessen the flow. HMMMMMMMMM

 

[Brains646]

Just a quick update:

I had the tee replaced along with a full tune up and the truck is running great! My miss at idle isn't a miss but low idle rpms (500). My mechanic suggested that it is being caused by needing a more evap canister. We'll see, he hasn't been wrong yet.

 

[rockola1971]

There are a few ways to release these quick connects. First push connector inward toward the fitting it is connected on. Then at the back of the black or white quick connect housing you will see 2 white(old and yellowed) plastic tabs directly opposite each other. Squeeze them inward toward each other as far as you can and at the same time pull quick connect outward off the fitting it is coupled to. If that doesnt work get a standard screwdriver and on the quick connect you will see 2 rectangular windows on the quick connector body. There will be tabs in there. These go up against a lip on the fitting that the quick connector slides onto and thats how the connector locks onto the nipple that it is connected to. Dont be afraid to destroy those tabs in the window with a set of diagonal cutters. Once those 2 tabs are pried outward or destroyed then the quick connect will pull right off. You can also use the tool (basically a fuel line/ac quick connect release tool). Here is a video with the guy showing the parts so you can better see the tabs at the rear of the quick connect and the window i mentioned.