BCM rear access ajar

[03YukonNH]

UPDATE: I no longer get the 'rear access ajar' message. Let me explain what I did to solve the problem. I think most people would have just replaced the BCM but a simple fix is probably all that is needed.

As I stated earlier, I figured out that I had a connection issue under the dash from the wiring harness to the BCM. I left the purple connector unplugged for a day since I was tired of the alarm going off in the middle of the night. I thought this would be a good temporary fix but it did not prevent the message from re-appearing on the DIC.

At this point I knew the problem was in the BCM itself. I took the BCM out of the truck and opened up its plastic housing. I located the pin that is associated with the pink/black wire for the rear tailgate status from the door latch mechanisms. I tested the connection from the pin to the rest of the board with a multimeter and it showed a connection. Just for the hell of it, I put some extra solder on the connector to the BCM and the circuit board. I put everything back together and I haven't had any problems with the message for a week now. I do believe this issue if finally resolved for me. This may or may not work for others that have this problem.

UPDATE #2: Let me retract my previous post. About a month after my supposed fix, the dreaded rear access ajar message started again. A simple knock/rap on the BCM would solve the problem but this was quite annoying. I finally broke down and bought a used BCM on ebay for $50. I went to the dealer witht he BCM and they installed and reprogrammed it for $90. So I am into this problem for about 5 hours of my time and $140. It has been about a week and I have had no problems so far. I will keep you all updated if it comes back or stays away.

 

[CG-ITS]

So, have you come across the problem again since you replaced the BCM?

Running into the same problem, except I can no longer arm my alarm because it keeps telling me 'door open' but assuming it may be the same or a similar problem.

Regards,
Chris

 

[03YukonNH]

I haven't had a single issue since I replaced the BCM and that was almost 2 months ago. This is the longest the truck has gone with no problem out of all the "fixes" I have tried.

 

[vonoretn]

Matt,

So a year later did that BCM solder trick fix the problem?

 

[ntxstallion]

Matt,

So a year later did that BCM solder trick fix the problem?

Don't think it did fix it for him. He mentioned that he had to replace the BCM to get the problem to go away. He also mentioned that he bought a used one.

 

[03YukonNH]

Don't think it did fix it for him. He mentioned that he had to replace the BCM to get the problem to go away. He also mentioned that he bought a used one.

Correct, I did replace the BCM with a used one and a year later have had no problems whatsoever. I wish I knew why the original wasn't working but it was probably a faulty chip or some passive component like a resistor on the board. I did not have the time nor resources to check the whole board.

 

[vonoretn]

Sorry, I missed page 2. So just installing a used BCM isn't enough, it has to be reprogrammed? One irony here is that you never did have to fix the door switches, which is what other DIY websites are recommending. And they are selling a lot of the door switches. I wonder what the success rate of that approach is based on your experience.

 

[03YukonNH]

Sorry, I missed page 2. So just installing a used BCM isn't enough, it has to be reprogrammed? One irony here is that you never did have to fix the door switches, which is what other DIY websites are recommending. And they are selling a lot of the door switches. I wonder what the success rate of that approach is based on your experience.

Its simple to diagnose door switches. Just grab a multimeter and make sure you get an open or closed circuit. Its how the BCM interprets the data thats the problem. Once you determine the switches are ok and the wires to the bcm are not pinched then you have a good idea that the bcm is the problem. Also, if you unplug the purple connector c6 from the bcm then the bcm will interpret all the doors as closed since an open circuit is a closed door. If the driver info shows a door ajar then the bcm needs to be fixed.

 

[vonoretn]

Matt,

This website post says a closed circuit is a closed door, opposite of what you just said:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/[email protected]@.f20d0c0

 

[03YukonNH]

Matt,

This website post says a closed circuit is a closed door, opposite of what you just said:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/[email protected]@.f20d0c0

When you pull the connector/harness from the BCM (I think its called C6 and is purple) that contains all the wiring from each door's latching mechanism, you do not get warnings about all the doors being ajar. When you pull the connector, this creates an open circuit. Also, I put an ohmeter to a few of the latches when I was investigating all of this and noted that a closed latch created an open circuit. I think the link you referenced has it wrong.