Big Three Replace Factory Grounds?

[iamdub]

Exactly what I was thinking. I should only have that ECM wire or the modules themselves to worry about after Big Three. I accidentally measured from alternator to negative terminal instead of positive, so I had to get another for positive. Is that the Big Four if I connect it? Thanks for the help!

Screw it- upgrade err'thang! I even upgraded the battery positive-to-starter wire since I had the material and it's the biggest load in the system.

Your alternator charge wire goes to a terminal box about 16" away, right? Just cut that long positive a little and make it a starter wire. The remainder might be enough to make the alternator charge wire. Although, you'll need to go from that terminal box to the battery positive.


...Or however yours is set up. I can't recall how the '800s are. Mine goes from the alternator, over the top of the intake manifold and terminates at a large fuse on the firewall near the battery. Then a short cable goes from the other end of the fuse to the battery +. '900s don't have that nifty 12V jump terminal the '800s have.

 

[iamdub]

Big Three installed and on tht way back from a drive.. Cluster Gremlins. Flash and back, but still. Since everything else is grounded, I must be dealing with a battery wire/connection issue?

The clusters themselves are WELL known for acting up. But, you're ruling out and upgrading what needs to be done, anyway.

Remove the bezel and the screws mounting the cluster. With it idling, gently/slowly move the cluster around and lightly tap on it to see if it repeats the symptoms.

 

[Dakcbeast]

Screw it- upgrade err'thang! I even upgraded the battery positive-to-starter wire since I had the material and it's the biggest load in the system.

Your alternator charge wire goes to a terminal box about 16" away, right? Just cut that long positive a little and make it a starter wire. The remainder might be enough to make the alternator charge wire. Although, you'll need to go from that terminal box to the battery positive.


...Or however yours is set up. I can't recall how the '800s are. Mine goes from the alternator, over the top of the intake manifold and terminates at a large fuse on the firewall near the battery. Then a short cable goes from the other end of the fuse to the battery +. '900s don't have that nifty 12V jump terminal the '800s have.

The 800 alternator is 16 inches away from battery terminal. I'm going to do as you say and upgrade errthang! The OEM battery- to frame ground bolt is has stripped in the frame and I can't get it tight. Just spent over an hour cutting the nipple off and trying to drill out but need a right angle drill!! I'm pretty sure that not being super tight is what's getting me. I unscrewed it a few times to try and make that where my negative 0/1 wire grounded and loosening it may be what's going on. I'm either going to cut those wires and run along with the 0/1 gauge to where I grounded it or I'll get the bolt out and replace with my own nut/bolt hardware. I'm on it though!! Thanks for the support!

 

[Dakcbeast]

I've already had the cluster out and wiggle jiggled everything and nothing. It's been rebuilt recently and I don't think that's the issue.

 

[iamdub]

I've already had the cluster out and wiggle jiggled everything and nothing. It's been rebuilt recently and I don't think that's the issue.

What exactly is the cluster doing? The whole thing intermittently losing power (all gauges go to their rest position) or is it just certain lights flashing off and on or...?

 

[Dakcbeast]

What exactly is the cluster doing? The whole thing intermittently losing power (all gauges go to their rest position) or is it just certain lights flashing off and on or...?

The abs/brake comes on first and that's my sign then the security, battery lights come on. Scrolls service 4wd and unknown driver. Radio turns off. The gauges all die except for speedo and rpm. Got worse it seems after Big Three and then battery- to front frame ground tightened.

What's left?

Could the battery cables themselves be bad? I've read that they can corrode from the inside out. The Big Three wouldn't ground everything as I used the top posts and the battery is connected on the side posts? This is crazy.

 

[Dakcbeast]

Remote doesn't work when I go to unlock. Key started it right up no lights on. Before when the remote didn't work the key would start and die until I wiggled the battery. Decently uneventful ride home. Right turns do it.

 

[iamdub]

The abs/brake comes on first and that's my sign then the security, battery lights come on. Scrolls service 4wd and unknown driver. Radio turns off. The gauges all die except for speedo and rpm. Got worse it seems after Big Three and then battery- to front frame ground tightened.

What's left?

Could the battery cables themselves be bad? I've read that they can corrode from the inside out. The Big Three wouldn't ground everything as I used the top posts and the battery is connected on the side posts? This is crazy.

Remote doesn't work when I go to unlock. Key starts it right up no lights on. Decently uneventful ride home. Right turns do it.

Top- and side-posts? What battery do you have? The battery itself could be bad, possibly with an intermittently shorting cell. Movement (such as your righthand turns) could trigger it. A battery with both post styles are connected internally. A large cable securely connected to the top post is just as good as one securely connected on the side post. But if the battery is bad, then your power supply is bad, and the computers in these things can do really weird things when they don't get enough power or clean power.

A faulty ignition switch is another possibility. Do you have a loaded/heavy keyring? With the key on, gently tug on it downward and to left (where it'd swing when making a RH turn). But, with the remote not working, I'm leaning more towards a funky power supply, and more specifically the battery.

 

[Dakcbeast]

Top- and side-posts? What battery do you have? The battery itself could be bad, possibly with an intermittently shorting cell. Movement (such as your righthand turns) could trigger it. A battery with both post styles are connected internally. A large cable securely connected to the top post is just as good as one securely connected on the side post. But if the battery is bad, then your power supply is bad, and the computers in these things can do really weird things when they don't get enough power or clean power.

A faulty ignition switch is another possibility. Do you have a loaded/heavy keyring? With the key on, gently tug on it downward and to left (where it'd swing when making a RH turn). But, with the remote not working, I'm leaning more towards a funky power supply, and more specifically the battery.

It's a new battery, not that it couldn't be broken internally. I'm thinking that the ground from the top posts may not ground the negative battery wires because they don't follow the same path? I'll switch the fat ground to the side post to see if that's my issue. Heading out right now.

 

[Dakcbeast]

Top- and side-posts? What battery do you have? The battery itself could be bad, possibly with an intermittently shorting cell. Movement (such as your righthand turns) could trigger it. A battery with both post styles are connected internally. A large cable securely connected to the top post is just as good as one securely connected on the side post. But if the battery is bad, then your power supply is bad, and the computers in these things can do really weird things when they don't get enough power or clean power.

A faulty ignition switch is another possibility. Do you have a loaded/heavy keyring? With the key on, gently tug on it downward and to left (where it'd swing when making a RH turn). But, with the remote not working, I'm leaning more towards a funky power supply, and more specifically the battery.

Okay... Switched ground to side post and same thing.

All the wiggling I've been doing at the battery boils down to those wires running over the computer box and moving it. I rerouted the smaller wire that comes from OEM battery cable and back to frame ground where it was. If I apply pressure to the computer box toward the battery it does the stuff. Let off and it goes back to normal.

Do I have a computer connection issue? Is this common?

Hopefully I'm on to something. Thank you.