Brake line removal and install at abs module procedure ?

[23sonthetahoe]

I'm throwing an abs light. Its my abs module from the faulty soldier joints but I can't remove it off the unit to fix. Due to the 4 torx 20 screws not coming off. If I were to pull the lines off so I can repair the unit wondering how to do this the 2 from the master cylinder if the cap is on the master cylinder not much fluid should come out of those two correct ? And then what happens when people end up needing an expensive scan tool to fix the module ? It's an 01 tahoe .. Have good day! ..

 

[rockola1971]

I'm throwing an abs light. Its my abs module from the faulty soldier joints but I can't remove it off the unit to fix. Due to the 4 torx 20 screws not coming off. If I were to pull the lines off so I can repair the unit wondering how to do this the 2 from the master cylinder if the cap is on the master cylinder not much fluid should come out of those two correct ? And then what happens when people end up needing an expensive scan tool to fix the module ? It's an 01 tahoe .. Have good day! ..

Fluid is going to drain even with the MC cap on. Just slower. You dont need "an expensive" scan tool to fix the module. You need a soldering iron and some solder.

You will need a bidirectional scan tool that can access the automatic brake bleed function if you dont want to lose your mind trying to get the brakes manually bled.

 

[23sonthetahoe]

Ya I know about the re solder of broken joints that fix this issue. The dirt bag design of the cover is preventing me from removing it . Thus needing to detach break lines. I'm just trying to figure out if that's worth it or not and the process of removing them. Ya a scan tool once the air gets into the master cylinder.

 

[23sonthetahoe]

Ya I know about the re solder of broken joints that fix this issue. The dirt bag design of the cover is preventing me from removing it . Thus needing to detach break lines. I'm just trying to figure out if that's worth it or not and the process of removing them. Ya a scan tool once the air gets into the master cylinder.

No where in there did I mention anything about needing a scan tool to fix the module dont know why you would spin it like I don't know what I'm talking about .

 

[afpj]

dont know why you would spin it like I don't know what I'm talking about .

Well, without the PRC balloon overhead, we can't read your mind anymore...sorry.

 

[Fless]

And then what happens when people end up needing an expensive scan tool to fix the module ?

FWIW, no, it wasn't mentioned it in that post, but was in the initial post.

No air will get into the MC if you leave the MC lines alone while ABS pump is removed. It's the ABS unit and lines that will have air in them, and that bleeding is what the scan tool will be needed for. I'm not telling you anything you didn't know, just clarifying the wording.

 

[Pcpurvis]

FWIW, no, it wasn't mentioned it in that post, but was in the initial post.

No air will get into the MC if you leave the MC lines alone while ABS pump is removed. It's the ABS unit and lines that will have air in them, and that bleeding is what the scan tool will be needed for. I'm not telling you anything you didn't know, just clarifying the wording.

I’m fighting the same fight with a PC0245 code; I was able to remove the ABS module and I resolded all the large solder connections. My scan tool cannot activate the ABS so to bleed it I went old school down a dirt road and did several power skids to activate it. To my surprise it did activate each time; during that time it didn’t throw any codes so I thought all was well. But as typical the gremlins returned shortly so the solder repair didn’t have any affect as the code still persists with the same frequency. My next step is to purchase a remanufactured unit from Cardon.

I bled the brakes before the attempted repair and flushed the lines and calipers with new Dot 4 (just as a maintenance decision) I have an 02 Yukon SLE; brake pedal was soft and went almost to the floor when pressed. Bleeding helped with the pedal but I believe that I need to bleed them again after activating the ABS module.
For my experience you’ll need to work the whole brake system to fix this. Drain the fluid, remove the AbS pump module, so the solder repair, reinstall it and bleed the system. Hopefully it will give you the results you hope for; but be prepared to replace the ABS totally.