Brake pads and rotors for 2013 Yukon XL 2500 4WD?

[jsoltren]

I just got a new (to me!) 2015 GMC Yukon XL 2500 SLT 4WD. It's a fantastic vehicle and will replace a well loved Denali. Read more about it here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ving-up-from-2001-gmc-yukon-xl-denali.109814/

The 2500 needs new brake rotors as the old ones are warped (I knew this pre purchase). I'd like to replace the pads as well. This will be a tow vehicle so drilled/slotted rotors would be nice (or would they?).

What are your recommendations for best rotors and pads for this beast? Should I go drilled and slotted? Should I go ceramic? Any particularly good or bad experiences?

 

[jsoltren]

It looks like Akebono pads are well liked:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/time-for-brakes.107235/#post-1278423
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/brake-pads.93729/page-2#post-1265644

OEM, R1, and Powerstop seem to be popular rotor options.

 

[jsoltren]

ACDelco it is. The pads are ceramic. The rotors aren't drilled or slotted - so it goes.

Pads: 19286093 front, 19286095 rear

Rotors: 19241879 front, 19241878 rear

 

[swathdiver]

GM OE or ACDelco Professional

My buddies 3/4 ton Duramax went 200K before the front rotors and hubs needed replacing.

Ceramic pads stop great and are harder on rotors.

 

[Mickey_7106]

i like hawk pads. i'll be replacing mine with the Hawk LTS and Stoptech slotted or Slotted and dimpled rotors. right now I'm trying to find a good seat of SS brake lines and a set of speed bleeders

 

[intheburbs]

OEM pads and rotors will be more than sufficient . No reason for aftermarket/over-engineered stuff. The 8600-lb gvwr braking system is plenty stout.

I bought my '08 2500 with 106k miles. Brakes were done by the dealer where I bought it. I now have 186k, and still have plenty of meat on the pads. I tow heavy - an 8600-lb trailer and a also a 3500-lb enclosed 6x12 with no trailer brakes. All OEM pads and rotors

I also did an 18-month stint driving for Uber - lots of stop and go, still no brake issues.

 

[Mickey_7106]

That may be true, but i prefer the extra stopping power that I can feel going after market.

OEM pads and rotors will be more than sufficient . No reason for aftermarket/over-engineered stuff. The 8600-lb gvwr braking system is plenty stout.

I bought my '08 2500 with 106k miles. Brakes were done by the dealer where I bought it. I now have 186k, and still have plenty of meat on the pads. I tow heavy - an 8600-lb trailer and a also a 3500-lb enclosed 6x12 with no trailer brakes. All OEM pads and rotors

I also did an 18-month stint driving for Uber - lots of stop and go, still no brake issues.

 

[intheburbs]

That may be true, but i prefer the extra stopping power that I can feel going after market.

Changing the rotors and pads isn't going to change stopping power. Maybe, just maybe, if you're towing heavy in the Rockies, the drilled/slotted rotors might reduce brake fade a little.

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Six-piston calipers and larger-diameter rotors? Absolutely will improve stopping power.

 

[Mickey_7106]

I agree, the clamping force is the same.

But like i mentioned, I can notice a difference in stopping power from stock to aftermarket. Im not sure if it has to do with the types of material of the pads or the reduction in brake fade from slotted rotors and the type of tire i run

BTW this is just my opinion. Not trying to convince anyone of anything.

Changing the rotors and pads isn't going to change stopping power. Maybe, just maybe, if you're towing heavy in the Rockies, the drilled/slotted rotors might reduce brake fade a little.

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Six-piston calipers and larger-diameter rotors? Absolutely will improve stopping power.

 

[Matt_]

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Cough*and friction coefficient*cough



OP I've always used Akebono Performance series pads and Centric Premium rotors and have been pleased with the results. I haven't swapped brakes on my 2500 yet so I'm not sure how much (if any) improvement there will be over this particular setup, buts it's been a notable improvement on my 1500 series GM trucks and other SUVs,Van's, and cars (some with the Akebono ProACT if the performance line wasnt available)

More stopping power from higher friction materials usually means dirtier wheels... so manufacturers often trade that stopping power off to keep the masses happy (who wants to clean their wheels every month?). Not sure if that's also the case for the 2500s.