Broken Motor Mounts

[iLikeEggs]

It's like anything really. The only time we are disappointed is when we expect something.

 

[BlkDenaliXL]

We've had our 07 Denali for 3 months, and its always had the 'clunk' off the line. Always thought it was a suspension part or perhaps the AWD failing. But after reading this thread here and performing the 'brake test', its the driver's side motor mount. I will be replacing this myself - doesn't seem too bad a job. Looking at Rock Auto, they have 4 brands available - DEA, Anchor, Pioneer and AC Delco. I know some have said go with the OEM, and avoid Anchor and DEA. Has anyone installed the Pioneer mount? Any difference other than price?

 

[iLikeEggs]

Just had the dealer replace my drivers side. It was well worth avoiding the bloody knuckles. I'll probably do the passenger side when I get some free time and inclination.

 

[Sarge]

After doing my motor mounts all my driving "clunks" went away

 

[YukonCrazy]

Had my drive side mount replaced this week for $230 labor. Well worth it.

 

[Harrington Family]

We have a 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 106k. We were on our way home from Virginia to Ohio when our car starting shaking and knocking. Had to get a hotel room for the night in Maryland and rent a truck the next day to get home. Found out cylinders one and four had gone out and we have a broken motor mount. Thank goodness we purchased the extended warranty to cover the cylinders. They won't cover the $400 motor mount though. Contacted GM today and they called dealer. Basically said we are on our own and won't offer any assistance to us. So by the time we pay for the hotel room (times 2 after we pick up our vehicle), the fuel cost to get back and forth, the rental, and the motor mount we will be out around $800-$1000. Great way to treat a loyal GM customer.


On a side note, the dealership has been very helpful and great at communicating with us.

 

[wesalexleft]

Getting ready to do my driver's side this weekend. I wanted to find an engine support bar, but can't find a cheap one that will span the engine bay, so I suppose I'll jack the motor from below. Anyone got a good way to lift the driver's side of the motor from below without the oil pan? I hear of using a tab on the block, but haven't been underneath yet to find it...anyone got a picture, or how you lifted the driver's side while replacing the mount. I plan on replacing with the axle in place, by removing the steering column only if needed.

Thanks,

 

[Raymond Lee]

Osidesurfer365,

We understand that you would like to resolve your vehicle issue at a third party company to save you money.

Regarding the cracked dash board concern, each case is unique and we do look at each case on a case by case bases. I cannot guarantee a different result regarding cost assistant but I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you please private message me you full name, address, phone number, VIN, and exact mileage. and preferred dealership?

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

Hello Jennifer

 

[wesalexleft]

I replaced the driver's side mount on my 2007 Denali this weekend. The local GMC dealer charged a friend of mine right at $900.00 all-in. The OEM mount was $94.00. It took me a leisurely 5 hours to replace. I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield, and steering column section from above, along with the mount-to-frame bolts. Then I removed the driver's front wheel, wheel well liner, ride height sensor, and ABS connector. I removed the mount to engine bolts last, then with a floor jack, and a 2 foot section of 1" square metal tubing, lifted the engine until the mount was clear. If you're getting ready for this, the 1" tubing went in from underneath between the frame, diff housing, and lifted at the block just in behind the power steering lines. Not too much weight at all, and I avoided the oil pan this way. After the new mount was in place, I threaded all bolts finger tight before lowering the motor. There was a little time spent to get the holes to line up, but nothing too bad. I seriously took my time on this, and included cleaning up and putting away the tools. With that, I still made about $160.00/hour doing it myself. The dealer should be ashamed for charging as much as they do with a lift, etc. They should easily make money at half the labor rate they offer.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I'm kind of wondering if some sort of torque limiter would help reduce the mount failures we're seeing. Maybe a modified version of this:

https://www.ingallseng.com/93031-******-etd-2004_pontiac-gto.html
https://www.ingallseng.com/93031-******-etd-2004_pontiac-gto.html
Just a thought. I'm thinking I'm due for a motor mount replacement on our PPV.