Broken Motor Mounts

[Kenny D]

The lower bolts can easily be reached from the top with a wobble joint and long extensions.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...cement-w-o-diff-removal-quick-write-up.92510/

 

[Meccanoble]

The lower bolts can easily be reached from the top with a wobble joint and long extensions.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...cement-w-o-diff-removal-quick-write-up.92510/

Those are the easy ones. I dread the process below.

7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.


8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.


9) Just a note about the order of the bolts, leave the top ones for last. I heard this from one of the videos and didn’t see why it would matter. It matters, the mount will try to lay back onto the frame if you take the tops out first.


10) You now have the mount loose and just have to get it out. I have to break the mount into pieces by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the engine plate and heat shield to the frame mount. I then took the heat shield and engine plate out the top and wiggled the frame mount outthrough the wheel well.

 

[NGAneer]

Those are the easy ones. I dread the process below.

7) Now comes the fun park, getting to the engine-side bolts. FRONT BOLTS: I removed the front skid plate (four 15mm bolts) and set it aside. I could now almost it up in the engine bay between the motor and the fans. I tried using this as my access point for the front, engine-side bolts but it proved to be too much to keep a ratchet on the bolt. So I got out eh step stool and laid over the radiator support and loosened the bolts from the top by going down behind the alternator bracket, underneath the exhaust manifold. Once the bolts break loose you should be able to remove them by hand. These are 15mm bolts by the way. I ended up using a 15mm deep socket, 3”extension and a 3/8 drive ratchet to loosen them and the used a 15mm shallow socket at the 3” extension to remove them with my hand.


8) REAR BOLTS: Remove the straps from the front u-joint of the front drive shaft (four 13mm bolts IIRC). Make sure your truck is in 2WD so you can spin the driveshaft by hand. I then had to use a pry bar to get the front driveshaft out of the yoke on the differential, I then slid the driveshaft over towards the engine to give me more clearance between the driveshaft and exhaust. This is the hole I used to get to the two rear bolts on the engine side. I used a the same combination for the front bolts on the rears as well.


9) Just a note about the order of the bolts, leave the top ones for last. I heard this from one of the videos and didn’t see why it would matter. It matters, the mount will try to lay back onto the frame if you take the tops out first.


10) You now have the mount loose and just have to get it out. I have to break the mount into pieces by removing the two 15mm bolts that hold the engine plate and heat shield to the frame mount. I then took the heat shield and engine plate out the top and wiggled the frame mount outthrough the wheel well.

LOL. I get a kick out of hearing the stories from everyone the first time they do it. It's like a fraternity or, more accurately, a support group.

 

[swathdiver]

I hope mine never break! I'm not revving my motor to 4000 anymore!

 

[Kenny D]

LOL. I get a kick out of hearing the stories from everyone the first time they do it. It's like a fraternity or, more accurately, a support group.

LOL, my back, knees, arms, hands, and fingers hurt too much to even try and write a paragraph after swapping mine out.

 

[NGAneer]

LOL, my back, knees, arms, hands, and fingers hurt too much to even try and write a paragraph after swapping mine out.

Oh yeah, feel like you've been to the gym and then in a fight.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I keep coming back here to see if someone has discovered a better motor mount, but continue to be disappointed. While I did find someone on one of the Truck forums fab up some solid mounts, I think that's a bit much on an otherwise stock vehicle.

So I guess I'll have to replace what we have with a factory replacement. I'm wondering if an engine torque damper would help the mounts live? Anyone try one? I'm looking at the Ingall's '04 GTO damper kit. Of course, one would have to modify the mounts, but the damper is the important part.

Thoughts?

 

[Mrae11]

Osidesurfer365,

We understand that you would like to resolve your vehicle issue at a third party company to save you money.

Regarding the cracked dash board concern, each case is unique and we do look at each case on a case by case bases. I cannot guarantee a different result regarding cost assistant but I would like to look into this concern for you. Could you please private message me you full name, address, phone number, VIN, and exact mileage. and preferred dealership?

Regards,

Jennifer T.
GM Customer Care

So I just returned from my mechanic after a routine oil change and he shows me I have a cracked drivers side motor mount!!!! WTF... I mean seriously GM? You would think they would install a strong enough motor mount for what people use these SUV's for. My mechanic ony works with GMC and Chevy's and he said he is noticing this often.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Oh and cause where it is located, not the cheapest of repairs either..

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with 69,774 miles on it. I have 1 broken motor mount, 1 cracked motor mount, a/c blower going out, cracked dashboard and door lock issues. Does anyone else have all these issues?

 

[Meccanoble]

I did mine this weekend and yes my body still aches in some places. Took me 4 hours and I hope to not have to replace again, atleast not until there is a better solution.

 

[NGAneer]

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali with 69,774 miles on it. I have 1 broken motor mount, 1 cracked motor mount, a/c blower going out, cracked dashboard and door lock issues. Does anyone else have all these issues?

Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes

Not being a jerk but yes. At one point or another, I think there has been a complaint about all of these. Chief of which are motor mounts and cracks in the dash.