Budget rebuild items?

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Charlie207

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If I were to eventually find a 6.0 LY6 to swap in, what would be the smart, but budget-conscious items/parts to plan on replacing? Assume its a higher-mileage, but fully running engine.

I have no experience doing this, and have been doing some reading instead of working today. Half the camps say to ignore the bottom end (bearings, rods, pistons) if it was running.

It would need all new gaskets, oil pump, pickup o-ring, timing chain, rear seals, lifters, ....?
 

RST Dana

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So, you have no experience? Unless you have a friend with experience, you may be spending extra “trial and error” resources on this project, i.e. special tools, incorrect parts, labor time. This is not your grandpas chainsaw. Not to mention a shop for all this fun to take place.
 

j91z28d1

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I'm more on the sloppy mechanics side of the spectrum, an ls engine will be the easiest engine to learn on. a few youtube videos and the resources here and you're good. the sloppy guys pull a 5.3 out of the scrap yard. they consider a 6.0 a oem race built engine lol. flip if over, check the main and rod bearing, grind some bigger gap in the rings if there's no bad scoring on the cyl, re-torque the mains and rods, new or some times even reuse head. gaskets. cam kit with new lifters. reuse every thing else, hang a turbo off it on e85 and make 800hp till it breaks a rod from getting greedy with to much boost at low rpm. I believe they have gone 8s in the 1/4 for $8k including the car.

if you're thinking of swapping the engine, I'll take it you have a garage to work in. some tools and don't mind buying anything else you might need.

with that, it depends on the motor. if you've heard it run and/or driven it. it's got good oil pressure and sounds good. I'd do a compresson check, look in at the cyl walls, as long as the look good and it's not a afm engine, which I believe the 6.0 isn't, which is the point of the swap. I'd do pan gasket, o ring. front balancer seal and balancer. the timing change will be your call based on results, ls2 one is the standard swap, but I don't know if that is correct for these trucks ecm. rear main/cover and send it. probably go another 150k or in a stock daily driver application without issues.


now if you buy one randomly already pulled. I'd go deeper. take a look at the rods and mains, do all the above plus a new high volume oil pump and probably have the heads checked at a machine shop. new lifters and guides, inspection the cam lobes really well. cam bearings, eh the high volume pump will cover it. or you can replace them. either at a shop or buy the tool and install them yourself. anything bad you find like worn mains, rods or cyl wall will add to your cost and be a decision made at the time. things can snow ball quickly if you get a blown up base to start with.

not sure there's a more enjoyable first engine to build thou,(besides maybe the Gen 1 sbc, did my first one of those at 16 years old from a book at the library) the amount of info and videos is endless and I don't think there's to many small gotches compared say something German. my buddy is a vw guy and watching him source parts and all the little special instructions that go along with those things would drive a 1st timer nuts.

as for what needs to be done wiring and tune side. Petethepug seems to be the go to for that. he's laid it all out for guys a few different times here.
 
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Charlie207

Charlie207

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So, you have no experience? Unless you have a friend with experience, you may be spending extra “trial and error” resources on this project, i.e. special tools, incorrect parts, labor time. This is not your grandpas chainsaw. Not to mention a shop for all this fun to take place.
I've never swapped an engine, no. But I can turn a wrench just fine. And read.
 
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Charlie207

Charlie207

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I'm more on the sloppy mechanics side of the spectrum, an ls engine will be the easiest engine to learn on. a few youtube videos and the resources here and you're good. the sloppy guys pull a 5.3 out of the scrap yard. they consider a 6.0 a oem race built engine lol. flip if over, check the main and rod bearing, grind some bigger gap in the rings if there's no bad scoring on the cyl, re-torque the mains and rods, new or some times even reuse head. gaskets. cam kit with new lifters. reuse every thing else, hang a turbo off it on e85 and make 800hp till it breaks a rod from getting greedy with to much boost at low rpm. I believe they have gone 8s in the 1/4 for $8k including the car.

if you're thinking of swapping the engine, I'll take it you have a garage to work in. some tools and don't mind buying anything else you might need.

with that, it depends on the motor. if you've heard it run and/or driven it. it's got good oil pressure and sounds good. I'd do a compresson check, look in at the cyl walls, as long as the look good and it's not a afm engine, which I believe the 6.0 isn't, which is the point of the swap. I'd do pan gasket, o ring. front balancer seal and balancer. the timing change will be your call based on results, ls2 one is the standard swap, but I don't know if that is correct for these trucks ecm. rear main/cover and send it. probably go another 150k or in a stock daily driver application without issues.


now if you buy one randomly already pulled. I'd go deeper. take a look at the rods and mains, do all the above plus a new high volume oil pump and probably have the heads checked at a machine shop. new lifters and guides, inspection the cam lobes really well. cam bearings, eh the high volume pump will cover it. or you can replace them. either at a shop or buy the tool and install them yourself. anything bad you find like worn mains, rods or cyl wall will add to your cost and be a decision made at the time. things can snow ball quickly if you get a blown up base to start with.

not sure there's a more enjoyable first engine to build thou,(besides maybe the Gen 1 sbc, did my first one of those at 16 years old from a book at the library) the amount of info and videos is endless and I don't think there's to many small gotches compared say something German. my buddy is a vw guy and watching him source parts and all the little special instructions that go along with those things would drive a 1st timer nuts.

as for what needs to be done wiring and tune side. Petethepug seems to be the go to for that. he's laid it all out for guys a few different times here.

From what I gather an LY6 is a direct swap for our GMT900 ECUs.

I'd be buying a running engine, and would want to freshen it up, so to speak. Rebuild may have been too strong a word.
 

j91z28d1

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I would consider "freshen up" of say the things you see thread after thread about.. oil pressure: o'ring, high volume pump to cover for any later oil pressure annoyance. pan gasket, that block off plate above it. the barbell thing, rear plate and main seal. front balancer and seal. maybe valve springs while easy to get to and new valves seals under it, cheap insurance and you're there. oem oil pressure sensor and maybe a valley gasket if you think it needs it.
 

Geotrash

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Others here are giving you most of the items, but I’ll just consolidate mine to one list because it’s easier for me to think through it.

I agree on leaving the bottom end alone if it’s in good shape and relatively low mileage. Then:

1/ have the heads sent out to a machine shop along with new valve springs and valve stem seals. They will install them for you.

2/ depending on the mileage, I would consider installing new Chevrolet Performance lifters as well.

3/ I would at least pull the cam to look for cam bearing wear and probably replace the cam with new while I was in there. They’re relatively cheap.

4/ replace the starter with new. Again, cheap insurance.

5/ replace the harmonic balancer and bolt with new, and use ARP for the bolt.

6/ use ARP bolts for the exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads.

7/ obviously, new front timing cover, rear cover, and crankshaft seals. And new oil cooler plate seal.

8/ new barbell in the oil galley, oil pan gasket and oil pickup tube o-ring. And I agree with the idea of installing a new high volume oil pump, though because it’s a cast-iron block a standard volume pump should also be fine, regardless of wear.

9/ new knock sensors with pigtails

10/ new intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and grommets. I might even be up for new fancy valve covers to dress it up a little bit.

11/ and of course, all new belts and hoses all the way around. Including all coolant hoses, heater hoses, engine oil cooler and transmission cooler hoses. It’s also a great time to replace the power steering hoses.

12/ It would be a really good time to replace that torque converter on the front of the transmission with a billet unit and stronger lockup clutch.

13/ New plugs and wires, and I would probably remove the fuel injectors to have them sent out, cleaned, and new O-rings installed.

14/ new motor mounts.

I know all of this will be fairly pricey, but you’ll have basically a new rig that will be trouble free for another 200K at least.
 
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Charlie207

Charlie207

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Yeah it'll be a slow burner, and it'll be nice to take my time, as opposed to my current 5.3 having blown up and needingvsonething right now. Taking to a guy with one for sale, but he won't be back until Monday.
 

j91z28d1

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just out of my own curiosity. the 6.0 all had Cathedral heads? or did they our some rec port on some of the trucks.

I was thinking all cathedral. but curious if it was done at some point?
 

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