Build thread - 3.08 to 3.42 front and rear gear change

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mikez71

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Similar looking unit from Summit.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7731112
Looks almost identical except..

1. Summit has a couple extra gussets on the engine side mount.
2. "S" cutout instead of "AFP"
3. bolt holes are slotted in opposite directions bottom and upper vs. AFP's all slotted the same direction
4. Summit mount has bent ears for the frame mount, AFP is welded tabs.

To me, the Summit part looks a little more refined.

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Regarding H3 mount prices..

$271 currently! I doubt the price will drop...

Of course I think that about everything. Spend your money NOW! :p
 
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DaveO9

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Well I ordered a Denso 2219514 radiator AND a single GM OEM motor mount from RA today. More projects and extending my down-time for the Tahoe by a couple weeks. While I’m there syndrome…..

On the motor mount I think a GM OEM will be sufficient for my 5.3 and fairly benign driving habits.

I also ordered my second try for the 9.5 rear today. Less than 100k miles on this one. Hoping for nothing bent or broken on this one. Front 3.42 on order as well.
 

buckwild27

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Similar looking unit from Summit.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7731112
Looks almost identical except..

1. Summit has a couple extra gussets on the engine side mount.
2. "S" cutout instead of "AFP"
3. bolt holes are slotted in opposite directions bottom and upper vs. AFP's all slotted the same direction
4. Summit mount has bent ears for the frame mount, AFP is welded tabs.

To me, the Summit part looks a little more refined
To bad they don't have a set for my 2014 and 2018 sierra.
 

5StarCustmSolutns

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Well I ordered a Denso 2219514 radiator AND a single GM OEM motor mount from RA today. More projects and extending my down-time for the Tahoe by a couple weeks. While I’m there syndrome…..

On the motor mount I think a GM OEM will be sufficient for my 5.3 and fairly benign driving habits.

I also ordered my second try for the 9.5 rear today. Less than 100k miles on this one. Hoping for nothing bent or broken on this one. Front 3.42 on order as well.

Dang.....just missed getting this to you before you ordered another from LKQ. Curious what $$$ range LKQ has them at now? Last April/May they were in the $550-650 range + core return of the 10 bolt that came on most of our vehicles.....which they were selling for $12-1400.

The math didn't add up to me, so I (and this is what I was going to suggest to you) went the salvage yard route. It was not for the faint of heart though! By that I mean: you have a better chance of convincing a Grizzly to share a spawning salmon it snagged out of mid air while perched on the edge of a waterfall than you have of getting anyone at a junkyard to physically walk out to the axle and confirm it's a 14 bolt with spring perches! The only way to do it is to learn the VIN codes that indicate it's a 14 bolt 9.5" rear. Then use a couple of the free VIN search sites to find out everything you can about the donor vehicle. In my case that took about 10 days or so.... But once I had the VIN codes figured out (thanks @swathdiver @Geotrash) I found a 14 bolt w/92,000 mi on it, out of a RWD '12 Yukon XL, 3hrs away for $212.00 and NO ($0.00) core charge! Saving that much money allowed me to put an Eaton Trutrac carrier in it and spring for high end bearings. I still have the stock G80 that came out of it if anyone reads this and needs/wants it?? Plus the 3.08 Ring/Pinion and the 10 bolt rear end complete with axles....

My theory was the 14 bolts are few and far between and likely RARELY EVER blow out, they basically only become available when the truck they were under was totaled. So they're simply not in demand, henceforth the low cost. The 10 bolts however have a VIO of 10million+, do blow up, and therefore are in demand, which is how these places justify the ridiculous pricetag for them.....smh! My plan was to rebuild the 10 bolt, coat it with POR15 and sell it for a few hundred less than the JEGS, Summit etc... Now if only I would follow through with that rebuild.....

As far as the four letter codes for the front diff?? I'm not 100% sure but I believe those are axle ID codes? Not gear ratio codes but axle identification. I was not able to find what they meant in about 15min of searching just now but did find this in the description of a Zumbrota front diff for sale:
front differential. With 3.42 Ratio. GM 8.25" ring gear, Independent Front Suspension (IFS), ratio option GU6, ID: AAAP, AAAZ, AABR, AACA, AACJ, AACU, BAAM, Hollander #440-01472, 440-01507. ***Call Zumbrota Bearing and Gear at 1-800-658-2537 ext. 125 for customer service, availability and technical assistance*

And I would have to think your logic is correct on which to choose based on it's similarity to your existing front diff axle code......HOWEVER this also is something I did not know existed, as I bought a GU6 front diff and called it a day......which turned out to be an AWD and you know the rest.....so at worst case, I would hope you would be able to Frankenstein any GU6 front diff with your existing front diff and make what you need. Which still leaves Frankenstein's twin, the front diff assembled from the parts you didn't need, in a fully functional and sellable condition...

-or-

One call to AAM or Zumbrota or Dorman etc.. would likely get you the answer to the AARB BAAB AABT question too. I'll be looking forward to the answer lol
 
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DaveO9

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Dang.....just missed getting this to you before you ordered another from LKQ. Curious what $$$ range LKQ has them at now? Last April/May they were in the $550-650 range + core return of the 10 bolt that came on most of our vehicles.....which they were selling for $12-1400.

The math didn't add up to me, so I (and this is what I was going to suggest to you) went the salvage yard route. It was not for the faint of heart though! By that I mean: you have a better chance of convincing a Grizzly to share a spawning salmon it snagged out of mid air while perched on the edge of a waterfall than you have of getting anyone at a junkyard to physically walk out to the axle and confirm it's a 14 bolt with spring perches! The only way to do it is to learn the VIN codes that indicate it's a 14 bolt 9.5" rear. Then use a couple of the free VIN search sites to find out everything you can about the donor vehicle. In my case that took about 10 days or so.... But once I had the VIN codes figured out (thanks @swathdiver @Geotrash) I found a 14 bolt w/92,000 mi on it, out of a RWD '12 Yukon XL, 3hrs away for $212.00 and NO ($0.00) core charge! Saving that much money allowed me to put an Eaton Trutrac carrier in it and spring for high end bearings. I still have the stock G80 that came out of it if anyone reads this and needs/wants it?? Plus the 3.08 Ring/Pinion and the 10 bolt rear end complete with axles....

My theory was the 14 bolts are few and far between and likely RARELY EVER blow out, they basically only become available when the truck they were under was totaled. So they're simply not in demand, henceforth the low cost. The 10 bolts however have a VIO of 10million+, do blow up, and therefore are in demand, which is how these places justify the ridiculous pricetag for them.....smh! My plan was to rebuild the 10 bolt, coat it with POR15 and sell it for a few hundred less than the JEGS, Summit etc... Now if only I would follow through with that rebuild.....

As far as the four letter codes for the front diff?? I'm not 100% sure but I believe those are axle ID codes? Not gear ratio codes but axle identification. I was not able to find what they meant in about 15min of searching just now but did find this in the description of a Zumbrota front diff for sale:
front differential. With 3.42 Ratio. GM 8.25" ring gear, Independent Front Suspension (IFS), ratio option GU6, ID: AAAP, AAAZ, AABR, AACA, AACJ, AACU, BAAM, Hollander #440-01472, 440-01507. ***Call Zumbrota Bearing and Gear at 1-800-658-2537 ext. 125 for customer service, availability and technical assistance*

And I would have to think your logic is correct on which to choose based on it's similarity to your existing front diff axle code......HOWEVER this also is something I did not know existed, as I bought a GU6 front diff and called it a day......which turned out to be an AWD and you know the rest.....so at worst case, I would hope you would be able to Frankenstein any GU6 front diff with your existing front diff and make what you need. Which still leaves Frankenstein's twin, the front diff assembled from the parts you didn't need, in a fully functional and sellable condition...

-or-

One call to AAM or Zumbrota or Dorman etc.. would likely get you the answer to the AARB BAAB AABT question too. I'll be looking forward to the answer lol
Thanks but slightly different story for me with LKQ. In an earlier post, I advised others they should order from their local LKQ rather than LKQ online. I am backtracking that advice now - LKQ online is the way to go if you are doing an upgrade, e.g. 8.5 to 9.5 rear end. The reason - NO CORE CHARGE! I didn't realize this until I tried to order the replacement rear from LKQ Portland - their price was slightly lower than what was listed online for the same stock number, but there was a $200ish core charge. And of course they wouldn't take my 8.5 as a core. So I called the LKQ online number and bought both the replacement rear and front at the same time. It had to be two different orders, since they came from different locations/vehicles (I believe all the trucks with 9.5 rears were RWD only). Rear was $380 (86K miles) and front was $290 (134k miles). Add $50 to both of those for a transfer fee to Portland, OR and I'm at $770 - I'm thinking that was a pretty good deal for both diffs. I looked at car-part.com a bunch of times and couldn't find anything close to $400 for a 9.5 rear at the yards closer to me. (Some were listing one for as much as I paid for both front and rear!) But I do totally agree with your assessment of why the 9.5s are cheaper, at least from a big outfit like LKQ: the few that have them as stock never need to replace them! And yes, when I was looking at 8.5s they are much more expensive. If not for this site, I would have never known the 9.5 was direct bolt-in, and probably would have been thinking about having the 8.5 rebuilt, probably with a Trutrac like you. (I'm sticking with the G80 in the 9.5 though.)

Fingers crossed on the front diff that I got the right letter code. It came out of a 2014 suburban and LKQ calls it a "4x4 front axle" so I'm optimistic. but I will see and report back.
 
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DaveO9

DaveO9

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I was thinking with my stock mount that when lifted up was metal to metal.

I think the hummer mount is good it's just pricey

Dumb question: could you do a hummer mount on DS and stick with Tahoe OEM on Pass side? I'm not going to do this now, but something I've been thinking about if I DO have a failure on DS some day, or if I do some motor upgrades.
 

Geotrash

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Dumb question: could you do a hummer mount on DS and stick with Tahoe OEM on Pass side? I'm not going to do this now, but something I've been thinking about if I DO have a failure on DS some day, or if I do some motor upgrades.
Yes, no problem. This is how my 2012 is currently.
 
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DaveO9

DaveO9

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Yes, no problem. This is how my 2012 is currently.

Awesome! Glad to hear that works. I may consider that in the future.

Picked up 2nd try axle today at Portland LKQ. This one much better regarding suspension attachments - all brackets are nice and straight. I was a little disappointed to see some surface rust on the diff flange where the ring gear mounts, but I will do some light cleaning with scotchbrite and then flush out with diff oil. Everything inside the diff looks OK and the axles looked good at the bearing surfaces. Pic makes it look worse than it is. I think this was sitting around in a yard for a few years.

Thought I'd share my method for moving these monster 9.5s around and in and out of the trailer. Cherry picker with a sling. And sling is repurposed straps from child car seats. Our youngest is 14, but years ago when it was time to get rid of all those items I took out the straps and saved them. They've come in handy a few times now. I even used them to move around a 4L80e from my '91 suburban.
 

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Geotrash

Dave
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Awesome! Glad to hear that works. I may consider that in the future.

Picked up 2nd try axle today at Portland LKQ. This one much better regarding suspension attachments - all brackets are nice and straight. I was a little disappointed to see some surface rust on the diff flange where the ring gear mounts, but I will do some light cleaning with scotchbrite and then flush out with diff oil. Everything inside the diff looks OK and the axles looked good at the bearing surfaces. Pic makes it look worse than it is. I think this was sitting around in a yard for a few years.

Thought I'd share my method for moving these monster 9.5s around and in and out of the trailer. Cherry picker with a sling. And sling is repurposed straps from child car seats. Our youngest is 14, but years ago when it was time to get rid of all those items I took out the straps and saved them. They've come in handy a few times now. I even used them to move around a 4L80e from my '91 suburban.
That rust is curious. How could it possibly have rusted unless it was left exposed to the elements. And if that was the case, I’m worried about the bearings. Thoughts?
 

swathdiver

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That rust is curious. How could it possibly have rusted unless it was left exposed to the elements. And if that was the case, I’m worried about the bearings. Thoughts?
They ought to be thoroughly inspected. I would also rotate the pinion with the carrier removed to check for binding from any corrosion it may or may not have.

Mine got rained on after we put the new yoke in the 2nd time and got the crush washer in and rotational torque to where it's supposed to be. We drained out the rainwater and poured 2 quarts of gear oil into the case and let it sit for a few days. All seems well.
 

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