Can some one tell me what I'm looking at?

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iamdub

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Oh seems easy enough. Do you have any experience with lowering these trucks? If so what would you recommend? I'm just looking for it to be lower and ride comfortable.....I like the stance the police Tahoe's have so maybe something that low?

I do. Haven't lowered mine yet but I have most of everything I'll need for a 4/5-6 including those resistors I mentioned.

You can lower the front of these without touching the springs, so it'll ride pretty much how it does now or better if you invest in good shocks. Off the top of my head, Bilstein 4600 seem to be the most recommended and Belltech Street Performance are reported to ride like stock or better or slightly softer. The only way to lower the rear is with coils. IIRC, the PPV/SSV Tahoe is dropped about 1.5" with coils and the additional drop is from a shorter tire. Let's say it's about a 2" total drop. If you like this height, then you get spindles (2") or coil relocators (upwards of 2" cuz they're adjustable) for the front. Another not-so-common method is to bolt the bar pin of the strut to the underside of the control arm with special bolts (special for their strength) and small spacers. Basically, the same as a lift spacer but in reverse. The rear is as simple as 2" or 3" coils and shock extenders or shorter shocks.
 
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Lsnoob13

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I do. Haven't lowered mine yet but I have most of everything I'll need for a 4/5-6 including those resistors I mentioned.

You can lower the front of these without touching the springs, so it'll ride pretty much how it does now or better if you invest in good shocks. Off the top of my head, Bilstein 4600 seem to be the most recommended and Belltech Street Performance are reported to ride like stock or better or slightly softer. The only way to lower the rear is with coils. IIRC, the PPV/SSV Tahoe is dropped about 1.5" with coils and the additional drop is from a shorter tire. Let's say it's about a 2" total drop. If you like this height, then you get spindles (2") or coil relocators (upwards of 2" cuz they're adjustable) for the front. Another not-so-common method is to bolt the bar pin of the strut to the underside of the control arm with special bolts (special for their strength) and small spacers. Basically, the same a lift spacer but in reverse. The rear is as simple as 2" or 3" coils and shock extenders or shorter shocks.
Seems easy enough, I do like the stance of the PPV Tahoe but I didn't consider they had smaller 17" wheels, i wouldn't want to go smaller in wheel or tire..if anything I'd want to go up...maybe 22 or possibly 24's with a lowpro tire. Maybe something like the black one in the pic but the one in the pic has 26's I think...that may be too big idk yet.

Screenshot_20190606-231230~2.png
 
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Lsnoob13

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This one is mine, I couldn't find a good side profile but you can still see how it seems a little high...at least compared to other ones I've seen.

Screenshot_20190608-150638~2.png
 

iamdub

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Seems easy enough, I do like the stance of the PPV Tahoe but I didn't consider they had smaller 17" wheels, i wouldn't want to go smaller in wheel or tire..if anything I'd want to go up...maybe 22 or possibly 24's with a lowpro tire. Maybe something like the black one in the pic but the one in the pic has 26's I think...that may be too big idk yet.

Yeah, I don't like the 80s-90s idea of lowering a truck by smaller wheels and/or tires. It looks stupid. The PPVs have a lowered suspension and the smaller tire diameter is for performance and handling and it's actually a special tire- definitely not for looks or intentional for the sake of lowering the overall height of the vehicle.

22s are about the biggest you can go while maintaining a reasonable ride quality for most any road condition, assuming the suspension doesn't ride like a wagon. 24s are fine if your roads are adequate. 26s or bigger and you're just asking for trouble.

The wheel size isn't such a concern if you size the tire accordingly. As long as you keep the overall diameter of the tire around 32", rubbing won't be much of an issue, if at all, with a reasonable drop.
 

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You will need to have an alignment done if you remove those spacers so if you’re planning on lowering it, wait and do it all at once and then you’ll only need one alignment.
 
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Lsnoob13

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Yeah, I don't like the 80s-90s idea of lowering a truck by smaller wheels and/or tires. It looks stupid. The PPVs have a lowered suspension and the smaller tire diameter is for performance and handling and it's actually a special tire- definitely not for looks or intentional for the sake of lowering the overall height of the vehicle.

22s are about the biggest you can go while maintaining a reasonable ride quality for most any road condition, assuming the suspension doesn't ride like a wagon. 24s are fine if your roads are adequate. 26s or bigger and you're just asking for trouble.

The wheel size isn't such a concern if you size the tire accordingly. As long as you keep the overall diameter of the tire around 32", rubbing won't be much of an issue, if at all, with a reasonable drop.
Yeah I feel the same way about that lol, 24's is probably as big as I'll go. Do you think the method you mentioned would bring it low enough to look like the one in the picture of the black truck or do I need to consider a whole different system? I've lowered cars before but these trucks and GM/Chevy is new to me. Especially lowering something this heavy lol I'm used to coilovers and bags I'm sure that those methods are unheard of with these and if they aren't I'm sure they ride like donkey on a dirt road lol. I just like the stance of the black one and that way I can get rid of the auto running boards....lol I don't like them much.
 

iamdub

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You will need to have an alignment done if you remove those spacers so if you’re planning on lowering it, wait and do it all at once and then you’ll only need one alignment.

Maybe not. The alignment could've been spot-on and the PO installed the spacers and never got an alignment. Removing them could make the alignment "perfect" again. FWIW, I never had mine realigned when I put my 2" lift spacers on. Also added 1.5" wheels spacers at the same time. I didn't notice any odd tire wear or driving characteristics. Had a little more scrubbing when turning, but that's to be expected with wheel spacers.
 

iamdub

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Yeah I feel the same way about that lol, 24's is probably as big as I'll go. Do you think the method you mentioned would bring it low enough to look like the one in the picture of the black truck or do I need to consider a whole different system? I've lowered cars before but these trucks and GM/Chevy is new to me. Especially lowering something this heavy lol I'm used to coilovers and bags I'm sure that those methods are unheard of with these and if they aren't I'm sure they ride like donkey on a dirt road lol. I just like the stance of the black one and that way I can get rid of the auto running boards....lol I don't like them much.

I'd venture to say that black Yukon has a 5/6. Assuming the wheels are 24", the overall diameter looks to be about the same as stock (32"). That one needs an alignment, though. Or it's a crappy Photoshop job.

The cool thing about these rigs is you can slam the front past the point of being drivable without even touching the stock springs. So, technically, they'd ride like stock and retain the stock load capacity. Again- assuming you get quality shocks. For the rear, you HAVE to change the springs to lower it, but the common ones for extreme drops are Trailblazer coils. So, you install coils designed for a lighter vehicle which means they'll compress a lot more to achieve the drop. You regain control of the extra softness of the (technically overloaded) springs with careful shock selection and/or the addition of helper bags. But, as far as the suspension articulation, you're limited by just a few interference points that are fairly easily remedied.
 
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Lsnoob13

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I'd venture to say that black Yukon has a 5/6. Assuming the wheels are 24", the overall diameter looks to be about the same as stock (32"). That one needs an alignment, though. Or it's a crappy Photoshop job.

The cool thing about these rigs is you can slam the front past the point of being drivable without even touching the stock springs. So, technically, they'd ride like stock and retain the stock load capacity. Again- assuming you get quality shocks. For the rear, you HAVE to change the springs to lower it, but the common ones for extreme drops are Trailblazer coils. So, you install coils designed for a lighter vehicle which means they'll compress a lot more to achieve the drop. You regain control of the extra softness of the (technically overloaded) springs with careful shock selection and/or the addition of helper bags. But, as far as the suspension articulation, you're limited by just a few interference points that are fairly easily remedied.
Dam I didn't know these could be lowered by adding GM parts....makes things alot easier and cheaper lol only thing I gata look into is the shocks...and maybe helper bags? I'd figure that helps with weight when the truck has weight and or maybe a trailer with a few bikes. What kind of should should I be looking at and would the helper bags I look for be for this model or? Seeing that the truck will be past stock hight maybe something for this model wouldn't fit?
 

iamdub

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Dam I didn't know these could be lowered by adding GM parts....makes things alot easier and cheaper lol only thing I gata look into is the shocks...and maybe helper bags? I'd figure that helps with weight when the truck has weight and or maybe a trailer with a few bikes. What kind of should should I be looking at and would the helper bags I look for be for this model or? Seeing that the truck will be past stock hight maybe something for this model wouldn't fit?

By Trailblazer coils, I meant lowering coils for a Trailblazer. Although, stock TB coils would lower a Tahoe, just very minimally. IIRC, the coil to have is the DJM 4" Trailblazer coil and it'll yield around 5" of drop on a Tahoe. If this is too much, you could toss in a 1" spacer. If it's too soft or if you tow, you could add some Airlift bags. I think the bags to use are for a Nissan Pathfinder. I have some but not the part number. They're about half the height of the stock Tahoe bags. For a stock or possibly slightly softer than stock ride, Belltech Street Performance struts and shocks are the ticket. The Belltech struts come with rings to adjust the drop from 0" to 2" in 1/2" increments. I was thinking 4" front drop might be too much so I was gonna try 3.5". I don't wanna have to take the struts back apart if it's not enough drop. So, I'm gonna go with no spacers to get the full 2" drop (4" total with the McG spindles). If it's too low, I'll use a spacer under the strut just like a lift spacer to fine-tune the drop. An 1/8" thick washer would yield about 1/4" of lift.
 

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