Charging system upgrade

[jeremiahm]

Hello all, first post, thanks for all the help! I have a 2007 Yukon Denali XL with every known issue accept the DoD stuff, just discovered I am one of the chosen with a smooth engine valley cover and no DoD on my 6.2! Been having issues with what feels like stutters, but no codes thrown, flickering headlights, occasionally the traction control light coming on with P0011, then clearing (replaced cam and crank positions sensors and CPS harness less than 1k miles ago) and have been researching wiring upgrades (big 3, etc). I am no stranger to electrical issues and upgrades and this is my take on what I am doing with part numbers! I read tons of posts and saw several video's and am boiling my ideas down to a combination of these 3 folks adventures:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...write-up-–-big-3-and-audio-56k-warning.40677/

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-help-a-brotha-out.124438/page-7#post-1535009

And one other poster who added a ground from the motor/body strap (on firewall) to alternator bracket. This alone helped tremendously!

I purchased my wires pre cut and lugged from Spartan Power (Reno, NV) via Amazon. Amazon was cheaper on wire sets, but you can order direct from Spartan and specify size, length and lugs.


I am doing a partial upgrade:

Firewall to Alternator bracket ground 4AWG
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HBNKVTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Negative Battery to Motor 4AWG
Negative Battery to Frame Rail (new hole/bolt) 4AWG (used black/red set to save cost)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45RLY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Positive Battery to Mega Fuse 1\0
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07113NT8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery Terminals
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W72584Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total cost of parts was $63 and the wire seems to be top quality!

All of my wires from the battery are oxidizing green inside, not sure how far or to what extent, but I believe this is my issue. The firewall to motor strap is greening as well. I will be running the two negative battery wires through the current sensor (this is a must) and the existing smaller frame ground wire as well. In the future I will update the fuse block, alternator and starter wires, but all seem in good shape.

I will post pics when I am finished!

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks for sharing! Following.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thompsoj22]

In regard to the alternator upgrade id advise the DENSO 6860 220 amp and a 2 inch overdrive pulley. I have been running this setup for awhile now without a glitch. We live in the desert so summer is alot of max ac at idle and the 2 inch pulley is absolutely necessary imo especially for stock alts.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics, please.

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon and am following this thread as well.

 

[jeremiahm]

Hope to get it done this weekend!

 

[wsteele]

Hope to get it done this weekend!

Looking at my stock setup, the bundle from my negative post runs through the Hall effect sensor. These are the only grounds going to my battery. Does that sound like how you started?

 

[thompsoj22]

Looking at my stock setup, the bundle from my negative post runs through the Hall effect sensor. These are the only grounds going to my battery. Does that sound like how you started?

Just asking how you determined the current sensor is hall effect? Im pretty sure that hall effect measures distance/rotation. The current sensor on your neg bat cable works the same as measuring current/amperage through the shielding of a wire/conductor. google how a clamp meter works. Replace the battery current sensor that you are referring too, It also monitors underhood temps in an attempt to turn down voltage to prevent the battery from overtemping. The sensor/module degrade's over time. RVC is good when functioning correctly but you must have a complete charge system in optimal condition. JMO

 

[wsteele]

Just asking how you determined the current sensor is hall effect? Im pretty sure that hall effect measures distance/rotation. The current sensor on your neg bat cable works the same as measuring current/amperage through the shielding of a wire/conductor. google how a clamp meter works. Replace the battery current sensor that you are referring too, It also monitors underhood temps in an attempt to turn down voltage to prevent the battery from overtemping. The sensor/module degrade's over time. RVC is good when functioning correctly but you must have a complete charge system in optimal condition. JMO

I didn't. I was reading an article about Hall effect sensors in auto application (crank, ABS, etc.) and when I wrote that I had Hall effect in my head when I typed sensor. Thanks for the catch, just doing two things at once.

 

[thompsoj22]

I didn't. I was reading an article about Hall effect sensors in auto application (crank, ABS, etc.) and when I wrote that I had Hall effect in my head when I typed sensor. Thanks for the catch, just doing two things at once.

You are definitley on the right path with insuring your entire charging system is in perfect working order. These vehicles are power hogs with DVD/BOSE/Rear AC/Heated seats/onboard air compressor/front electronic struts/heated pwr mirrors/Rear window defrost. Wow i wonder if every accessory were turned on simultaneous what the current draw would be?