Chasing the "low voltage" on the instrument cluster "fixed it!!"

[swathdiver]

I searched for over 6 months and finally one popped up on OfferUp, a real OEM Tech2 for $400
Totally worth it.

Hey Marc, who made yours? Can it make duplicate PCMCIA cards and does it have training center mode?

 

[gpracer1]

Hey Marc, who made yours? Can it make duplicate PCMCIA cards and does it have training center mode?

Made by Vertronix 10/10 printed on the card cover, not sure about the rest. Will have to google training center mode.

 

[swathdiver]

Made by Vertronix 10/10 printed on the card cover, not sure about the rest. Will have to google training center mode.

Those two features are listed under F3 Tool Options on the main menu.

 

[raidernationmike]

After installing a Bosch reman alternator DR44 160 amp. costing $303.00, Driving the car 500 miles to sedona and seeing a "service charge system" on the DIC. Buying a NAPA premium reman DR44 160 amp,$176.00 a new tensioner and belt $93.00, Heading off to the grand canyon but stopping in flagstaff AZ to purchase a 175 amp fuse $9.00 thinking it may be the culprit causing the "intermittent low voltage" I have been informed via youtube of the "RVC, ie regulated voltage control" that is part of this vehicle. All the rising and falling on the volt gauge are by design to save fuel, batteries, alternators??????
I consider my self to be a mechanic but this one kicked my ass! not to mention my wife busting my you know "are you sure you didnt buy a lemon?" "how much is this costing?" had i searched here first would i have saved myself $500? We have only owned the vehicle for about 3 weeks, 08" yukon denali xl awd 6.2 with 125k and just finshed a 1500 mile roadtrip to the grand canyon and back. All these repairs were done on the road with a 15mm socket/ratchet and a 10mm wrench! We love this vehicle and traded our 03 tahoe as a down payment and dont have a single regret. I am wondering why the one DIC service charge system popped? maybe the enging power module? This experience taught me that cars and technology are allways changing, "STAY INFORMED" or squander cash.

Check all the ground connections AND positive terminal connections from the battery. I stumped myself for two weeks trying to dig into the warning messages and realized that the terminals weren't bolted snug to the battery and all my electrical error messages disappeared.

 

[gpracer1]

Hey Marc, who made yours? Can it make duplicate PCMCIA cards and does it have training center mode?

I don’t see those options on mine.

 

[swathdiver]

I don’t see those options on mine.

Ok, thanks! One thing I've noticed is that all Tech2s are not alike. I have the Bosch/Vetronics manual which shows those two options in 2006 but mine (2017) and not yours (2010).

 

[thompsoj22]

Check all the ground connections AND positive terminal connections from the battery. I stumped myself for two weeks trying to dig into the warning messages and realized that the terminals weren't bolted snug to the battery and all my electrical error messages disappeared.

yup, i allready replaced the battery ground cable, added a new "big" engine to chassis cable and will replace the positive from battery to starter/**** fuse. I havent inspected it yet but also the main power to engine fuse box could be suspect?

 

[thompsoj22]

just an update, so the new NAPA "remanufactured BOSCH" 160 DR44 stopped charging yesterday, it was a good thing i had the NAPA premium DR44 160 in the vehicle with me and i simply swapped the alts in a tastee freeze parking lot at 106 degrees with wife and kids sweltering in the car. After alot of research about the RVC stand alone system i have come to my own opinionated conclusion that the sensor should be unplugged in the summer and allowed to do it's thing in the cool of the winter. The alternator simply can not endure an external regulator controlling an internal regulator under heavy load and "HEAT". The battery current sensor, alias the generator battery control module is a "hall effect current sensor" that is mounted to the neg bat cable that "estimates" battery temp, state of charge and current demand. The signals from this sensor control alt output using pcm/ecm/bcm, My personal opinion is under extreme heat/load it gets lost between trying to prevent the battery from over temp and turns down the output of the alt to a point of failure on the alt's internal regulator. I have unplugged it and under the same loads it never drops below 13.2, without the sensor plugged in it reverts to a 13.8 output the the internal reg is happy doing so.

 

[TxDrewski]

Not to High jack, But does everyone recommend the actual "GM Tech2", there are alot of other scanners out there, especially on ebay

 

[thompsoj22]

Not to High jack, But does everyone recommend the actual "GM Tech2", there are alot of other scanners out there, especially on ebay

Im faced with the same choice, i now realize to own a loaded GM vehicle you need to "accurately" diagnose codes that are not obvious to emission OBD2 scanners. I will pull the trigger soon and am looking forward to their trouble shooting/module control capabilities.