Click no crank, truck won't start

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Lesson to all those out there, don't buy parts of amazon! Starter said lifetime warranty in box. Is remanufactured Bosh sold by Amazon. However, Bosch deems Amazon the customer service end yet Amazon lists Bosch as the point of contact. When I just called Bosch they said 24 month warranty which I've exceeded now by 1 day! FNA man ug.

Hotline didn't know what coil resistance should be... but I'd venture a guess as you are eluding too @rockola1971 0.4 ohms is low and maybe why I'm blowing that fuse. I have yet to check the other side of the circuit / in the vehicle / purple wire.

Ah hell figured it out! Video loading.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

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Starter is bad. I was sold a bag of goods and cannot really tell who sold it to me. Amazon ad page says Bosch sells them. Amazon Customer support tells me I purchased from some dealership parts department in Texas. Left message. I think I'm out the starter.

Video of issue

I may try to rebuild it. Or at least take it apart to see what's shorting it out inside the case.
 

rockola1971

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Looks like solenoid coil(s) melted down and is touching inside of solenoid case(ground). You should be able to get away with just putting a new solenoid on it. If you disconnect the insulated cable from the solenoid that goes down into the starter body and ohm it out from the end of that cable to starter case(ground) you will be checking the starter windings to see if they are shorted. (I doubt they are).
You should be able to get those torx bolts off with a 1/4" drive 6 or 12 point socket. Metric around 7 or 8mm.
 

rockola1971

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@rockola1971 bit confused wouldn't all the ground posts go to chassis, case, or any other ground?

I measured Terminal S to case of starter in various different spots, on the solenoid case as well as on the mounting / front of crank motor case. It was still 0.4 ohms.

I called Bosch technical support to see if it's within spec. Will see what they say when they get back on my message.
Yes all ground connections ultimately end up on vehicle chassis, engine block, tranny case, etc. BUT....Not if you are holding the starter in your hand. Then the "ground" is just the starter case. The solenoid coil is internally grounded at the starter solenoid case and the solenoid case electrically touches the starter case and then it is only grounded when it is bolted to the engine block and possibly if there is a ground strap that runs to it from vehicle wiring.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

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Looks like solenoid coil(s) melted down and is touching inside of solenoid case(ground). You should be able to get away with just putting a new solenoid on it. If you disconnect the insulated cable from the solenoid that goes down into the starter body and ohm it out from the end of that cable to starter case(ground) you will be checking the starter windings to see if they are shorted. (I doubt they are).
You should be able to get those torx bolts off with a 1/4" drive 6 or 12 point socket. Metric around 7 or 8mm.
Awesome thanks! I'll ohm out the windings in the starter motor.

I've never tinkered with a starter rebuild. I suppose I start at the parts store. I see orielly has various starter parts on their website.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Well, shucks! I went and bought another starter from junkyard. Idiots cleaned it with a pressure washer. Made me concerned so I took it apart. Dang, I'm never buying another starter again! Long story short, first junkyard (my favorite ABC auto salvage in Tucson) recommended the second one that had the starter. Guy at ABC said he fixes the solenoids all the time. They weld themselves to case? I couldn't quite catch what he said that you can fix it pretty easy.

I let the one from junkyard dry then tested it. It works like a champ. Then I tore it down and inspected guts.

Solenoid 1.5 ohms
Crank Motor 0.4 ohms (makes since with solenoid shorting to case now on other)

I'm floored at how simple these things are. Tearing the starter down is almost easier than rotating tires (minus pulling starter).
 

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most of the time the solenoid just dies but almost nobody fixes them anymore, solenoids are usually cheap as well
china killed the repair market, there is a shop here in town that does repair/rebuild alternators and starters they are down to 1 employee, 20 years ago they had a full crew of 6 guys working 7 days a week and you could get yours fixed in a couple hours for cheap, now they don't even do the new digital alternators because the machine to test them cost like $15,000 and they don't stock the parts anymore. they just survive off the old farm equipment repairs now or anything older but it takes days.
 

rockola1971

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most of the time the solenoid just dies but almost nobody fixes them anymore, solenoids are usually cheap as well
china killed the repair market, there is a shop here in town that does repair/rebuild alternators and starters they are down to 1 employee, 20 years ago they had a full crew of 6 guys working 7 days a week and you could get yours fixed in a couple hours for cheap, now they don't even do the new digital alternators because the machine to test them cost like $15,000 and they don't stock the parts anymore. they just survive off the old farm equipment repairs now or anything older but it takes days.
Bro! We are showing our age when we speak of the days when you could get an alternator or starter rebuilt for less than $20 or $30 and get it back in 2-3hrs and the rebuilder actually has parts stocked so no ordering and waiting for days. We could also get a radiator rebuilt with new tanks and most of the time could watch them do the work on your own radiator!
About 10 years ago I had to have brass/copper radiator rebuilt for a 50's generator that belonged to the U.S. Government. I had to drive over an hour away just to find a shop that still boiled out the radiators and brazed them still. The EPA aint too easy with regulations on the chemical tanks for boiling out radiators nowadays.
 
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Doubeleive

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Bro! We are showing our age when we speak of the days when you could get an alternator or starter rebuilt for less than $20 or $30 and get it back in 2-3hrs and the rebuilder actually has parts stocked so no ordering and waiting for days. We could also get a radiator rebuilt with new tanks and most of the time could watch them do the work on your own radiator!
About 10 years ago I had to have brass/copper radiator rebuilt for a 50's generator that belonged to the U.S. Government. I had to drive over an hour away just to find a shop that still boiled out the radiators and brazed them still. The EPA aint too easy with regulations on the chemical tanks for boiling out radiators nowadays.
there is a couple radiator shops here in town that still repair them, I took the coldcase I had over to one of them but the leak was in a spot that wasn't repairable
we used to have a chrome plating shop here to but not sure if they are still around that stuff is super super nasty chem's
 

rockola1971

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there is a couple radiator shops here in town that still repair them, I took the coldcase I had over to one of them but the leak was in a spot that wasn't repairable
we used to have a chrome plating shop here to but not sure if they are still around that stuff is super super nasty chem's
Thats surprising there is still a shop in California of all places. Here in the Midwest those shops are all almost totally gone.
 

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