crank cam correlation help

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retorq

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LOL, That hold down bracket Sunlit is suggesting is for a Pre-96, that intake is a TBI (pre Vortec) intake. The hold down bracket for the Vortec distributor is different. The Vortec housing has squares on it to minimize cam/crank issues WHEN the distributor is installed correctly.

P8270203.jpg

That is the base of a stock Vortec distributor, you have the right hold down ...

Here is a stock Vortec distributor with the CORRECT stock hold down, see how it sits in there, there should be no adjustment:

vortec_dist_billet.jpg


Basically it boils down to this, you didn't zero your engine correctly when you dropped the distributor in. I can tell by your comment "the distributor only goes one way" ... the engine is supposed to be at 0 degrees when you dropped that new distributor in. You need to adjust the oil pump shaft to get your distributor to lineup correctly since there is not supposed to be any adjustment at the distributor cap like on "old school engines".
 

SunlitComet

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I know it is a tbi type hold down and it is very similar to what is on my '96. my engine was zeroed out going back together and if a longer forked clamp was use the correlation would be off.
 

retorq

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If you dropped in a factory style Vortec distributor with the notches AND used the proper corresponding hold down clamp AND your engine isn't timed right then you aren't zero'ing the engine properly. There is no adjustment built into any of those parts except the part where you you need to properly set top dead center on the engine.
 

SunlitComet

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I guess then I do not have a factory style Vortec distributor with the notches AND have not used the proper corresponding hold down clamp AND my engine isn't timed right either. funny how the parts look the same as available dealer part tho. Oh well.
 
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robhenry2990

robhenry2990

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look i have a 98 tahoe. when its top dead center the dizzy points to 1 how can it be out of time? i moved the oil pump to accept the dizzy. IT RUNS GREAT.i have a crank cam code had it read and its -3 i have to get rid of this code by the end of the month so i can get it inspected im going to a jy tomorrow to get that hold down will it work?
 

retorq

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EXACTLY how are you determining that it's pointing at #1?? Are you marking the plug tower on the lower housing or are you just eye balling it?? If you are eyeballing it then 3 degrees off is pretty damn close.

I have an engine with timing tape setup with degree markings, I can drop a distributor in, take a pic, turn it 3 degrees and take another pic, my guess is no one here will be able to tell the difference ...
 
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robhenry2990

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I took the cap off and turned the motor by hand till the rotor pointed to number 1 cylinder i felt through the spark plug hole and number one was all the way up. The notchs on the pullys were lined up. How do i time it? What should i use? I need help. i marked the firewall when i took it out and lined it up with the mark putting it in. I dont want to take it to the dealership but i will if noone can give me a good answer
 

SunlitComet

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when you line up the crank marking take your cap off and look straight down the rotor tip and move dizzy util tip is dead on with figure "8" on housing. if you do well you will most likely get it to where it is less then a degree from 0. eliminating a scan method.
 
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robhenry2990

robhenry2990

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there is no 8 stamped onto the housing but there is the little triangle where it was on the stock one is that ok?
 

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