Dan's ratty truck

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randeez

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Yeah they said the lathe they use would catch so it’s a no go. The Wilwoods are so massive I don’t see them ever wearing or warping. I swear they’re 3x as much mass as the NNBS upgrade I put on the front. But it comes with a cost, even just for maintenance- pads for all 4 corners were $300 last I checked.
do you just replace the disc part of the two piece rotors? on mine all i find is rotors and hats already made up, very few disc only options mostly aftermarket and 800$$ and up
seemed odd to me, but guessing its because people are dumb and its just safer that way?
 

Rocket Man

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damn young'ns
back in my day you didnt just run out n buy new rotors every time you did brakes
rotors done with a lathe - trains on the other hand :oops: did a job down at amtrack where they did maintenance on them. they roll the train car over the grinder and fkin thing lights up a 30' radius with sparks to refinish the wheels
No wonder trains are so damn slow, the wheels keep getting smaller. :emotions33:
 

Rocket Man

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do you just replace the disc part of the two piece rotors? on mine all i find is rotors and hats already made up, very few disc only options mostly aftermarket and 800$$ and up
seemed odd to me, but guessing its because people are dumb and its just safer that way?
Yeah you can buy just the rotor minus the hat, $515 each for the 16” and $415 for the rear 14”. Plus shipping I’m sure.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Skipped my nightly workout and decided to do a 4 pot caliper test fitting with the new wheels. Being that they are from a 2500 I thought maybe the barrels were thicker and would hit but it fits great! No need to even consider reviving these brakes, gonna order the parts soon so when I finally get an axle in it I can move it and stop it.
 

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pwtr02ss

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Skipped my nightly workout and decided to do a 4 pot caliper test fitting with the new wheels. Being that they are from a 2500 I thought maybe the barrels were thicker and would hit but it fits great! No need to even consider reviving these brakes, gonna order the parts soon so when I finally get an axle in it I can move it and stop it.
Awesome!

Those 2021 brakes? Sorry I haven't been following as closely as I probably should've. I get distracted easily with all the manly talk we have going on in here at times.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Awesome!

Those 2021 brakes? Sorry I haven't been following as closely as I probably should've. I get distracted easily with all the manly talk we have going on in here at times.

Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
 

pwtr02ss

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Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
Cool deal. I thought about doing that upgrade on the avalanche but I don't really want to run a spacer.

As far as rotors, I'll probably never buy drilled/slotted again. I haven't had good luck with them. It'll be basic biznatches from here on out for me. I think they do better with heat/warpage, honestly.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Cool deal. I thought about doing that upgrade on the avalanche but I don't really want to run a spacer.

As far as rotors, I'll probably never buy drilled/slotted again. I haven't had good luck with them. It'll be basic biznatches from here on out for me. I think they do better with heat/warpage, honestly.

Spacer for the wheels? I used to be a big hater of spacers but this Tahoe has changed my perspective of that. I've had 1/4" spacers on it since basically week one without any issues and I beat it on the regular lol.

I haven't had any issues with drilled/slotted which surprises me with how I treat stuff but I think part of it is due to having the manny tranny. I don't have to use my brakes nearly as much as an auto. @randeez brought up a great point earlier about getting the brakes hot with aggressive braking and then sitting on them at a light causing warping. In my case, I would typically compression brake a tad (especially when towing) and save the brakes causing them to not be as hot plus when I get to the light I don't need to use my brakes to sit still because Florida is flat earth territory.


Uhg Covid still ******* me off, I want to order that $193 Powerstop kit but it won't ship till Mid Jan which is too far so, I think I'll do OEM rotors and Powerstop pads coming to $266 total but it will be here in a week or less from Summit and OEM rotors are probably the best option. This thing is gonna stop hard AF! 4pot front, NBS 2pot fronts in the rear with a 13" rotor, stainless lines F/R, and Hydro boost in a 4,800# truck. The front brakes are rated for a 6k# truck and the rears are for a 6,400# truck so this mofo ought to stop good!
 

pwtr02ss

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Spacer for the wheels? I used to be a big hater of spacers but this Tahoe has changed my perspective of that. I've had 1/4" spacers on it since basically week one without any issues and I beat it on the regular lol.

I haven't had any issues with drilled/slotted which surprises me with how I treat stuff but I think part of it is due to having the manny tranny. I don't have to use my brakes nearly as much as an auto. @randeez brought up a great point earlier about getting the brakes hot with aggressive braking and then sitting on them at a light causing warping. In my case, I would typically compression brake a tad (especially when towing) and save the brakes causing them to not be as hot plus when I get to the light I don't need to use my brakes to sit still because Florida is flat earth territory.


Uhg Covid still ******* me off, I want to order that $193 Powerstop kit but it won't ship till Mid Jan which is too far so, I think I'll do OEM rotors and Powerstop pads coming to $266 total but it will be here in a week or less from Summit and OEM rotors are probably the best option. This thing is gonna stop hard AF! 4pot front, NBS 2pot fronts in the rear with a 13" rotor, stainless lines F/R, and Hydro boost in a 4,800# truck. The front brakes are rated for a 6k# truck and the rears are for a 6,400# truck so this mofo ought to stop good!
Yeah, spacers for the wheels. Its just one more thing to mess with. I have to run a 1/8" spacer on the front of the s10 because the center caps hit the hubs. Its no big deal, just something I'd rather not do. Plus the wheels already stick out too far IMO.
 

Tonyrodz

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Yep, the 4 piston big daddys, my Powerstops are rusted really bad and since they are drilled I can't re-surface them and no reason to throw money at something I want to upgrade plus, I have a spare 4piston for testing that will save me $100.

Looks like the cheapest I can find pads and rotors for are the power stop NOT drilled/slotted with ceramic pads for $193. I'd like OEM but I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to pay more when I feel powerstop is just fine.
If the rotors are just rusted without being warped, have you thought about hitting them lightly with a palm sander and some good grit? It'll work to remove the surface rust--plus it'll save you some money.
 

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