Do I have a stuck caliper?

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bdbull

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2010 Avalanche 4x4...So I've definitely got something going on with my right rear brakes. I had a good squeal going on so I was prepared to change the rear brakes. After getting everything apart, the pads had plenty of life on them but the brake hardware was broken. So I cleaned everything up, replaced the hardware and put it all back together. Ever since then, I think the right rear is dragging. Get a burning smell and the right rear rotor is significantly hotter than the left (500* vs. 100*). I've taken everything apart again, relubed the hardware and the caliper slide pins. I compressed the caliper some just to create more space when I put it back together and noticed the piston boot is cracked pretty good. I ordered a boot repair kit, but now I think something else is going on.

What else can I check and how? How can I tell if the caliper is stuck and needs to be replaced or is this the tell-tale sign that it is?
 
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JPS0284

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The front passenger side had a similar issue a couple of years ago. I replaced the front rotors, installed AC Delco gold ceramic pads, and a year later, the passenger side wore through the pad, grinding on the rotor. The culprit was the caliper piston not retracting into the caliper, causing pad drag. I opted to replace both calipers to prevent future issues, and there have been no problems since.
 

B-train

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If the caliper had a ripped boot, then youvmost likely have. Frozen/sticky piston that doesn't retract properly anymore. Don't try to rebuild it, just replace it. Might want to do both sides at the same time if the other looks aged
 

swathdiver

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2010 Avalanche 4x4...So I've definitely got something going on with my right rear brakes. I had a good squeal going on so I was prepared to change the rear brakes. After getting everything apart, the pads had plenty of life on them but the brake hardware was broken. So I cleaned everything up, replaced the hardware and put it all back together. Ever since then, I think the right rear is dragging. Get a burning smell and the right rear rotor is significantly hotter than the left (500* vs. 100*). I've taken everything apart again, relubed the hardware and the caliper slide pins. I compressed the caliper some just to create more space when I put it back together and noticed the piston boot is cracked pretty good. I ordered a boot repair kit, but now I think something else is going on.

What else can I check and how? How can I tell if the caliper is stuck and needs to be replaced or is this the tell-tale sign that it is?
14 year old truck, time to rebuild the calipers. You can rebuild the aluminum rear calipers with the GM OE components used to rebuild the front calipers.

Here are the parts needed to rebuild the calipers only:

1705895870105.png

These are the HD calipers, brand new, no core charge from ACDelco:

1705895911451.png

I rebuilt the rear calipers back in 2020 and they've been flawless. Running the Severe Duty calipers on my 2012 soon, all the parts are piled up waiting for time. What prompted the rebuild was back in 2019 I redid the front brakes but skipped the calipers.

Then a year later a front pin hung up on one caliper. Fixed it and then it locked up a few months later and smoked the brakes on that side. So I did the fronts completely all over again with new calipers this time and while checking the rears discovered that one of the pistons was not fully retracting. Not enough to cause an issue yet but I wasn't going down that road again and decided to show the kids how to rebuild them.
 

donjetman

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Yrs ago I did a full brake job (hoses, calipers, etc) on one of my other vehicles. Got all the parts from autozone w/lifetime warranty. About once/yr one of the calipers freezes (gets hot, smelly, brake dust on wheel). I take it off and go get another from AZ for free.
 
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bdbull

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Thanks for all the info. I've ordered a bunch of parts and watched a bunch of youtube videos so I've got several things to check when all the parts arrive. Will update as I figure out more.
 
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bdbull

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Update: Replaced the piston, boot, and internal o-ring. Appears to be functioning properly now. Had the wife hop in the truck and push and let off the brake and made sure I could still spin the wheel once she let off. Could not do that before I started the work. Didn't see anything glaringly wrong with any of the parts I replaced except the boot was severely dried and torn. Had a hell of a time even getting it off.

Will run like this for a week and if everything is still ok, replace the brakes on all four wheels next weekend.
 
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bdbull

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14 year old truck, time to rebuild the calipers. You can rebuild the aluminum rear calipers with the GM OE components used to rebuild the front calipers.

Here are the parts needed to rebuild the calipers only:

View attachment 419489

These are the HD calipers, brand new, no core charge from ACDelco:

View attachment 419490
@swathdiver Do you know if these parts will fit a 2015 Tahoe LTZ? I need to rebuild the rear driver side caliper and all I'm finding is a genuine front piston. Do you know if it will work for the rear caliper like it did for my Avalanche?
 

swathdiver

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A quick search shows 18H4204/193647738 for a rear disc brake caliper seal kit.

The front piston seal kit has a different part number, for 2 pistons instead of one 179-2262/23276875 or 84828462 but the pistons themselves are the same as the one I posted above.

If yours were mine, I'd be willing to go for it based on that information. Just don't take it all apart until you can compare the rear seal kit to a front seal kit and your old front piston or just buy another to see.
 

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