Dual Battery Setup using OEM parts?

[doriangre]

This is not my pic, but the parts circled were replaced by the Keyline VSR.

What is that part #10 in that picture?

 

[Californian]

thanks for the wrieup. I have a 2018 tahoe and i am planning on doing a dual battery setup also. This helped me map out the layout, but I think im making my own since I plan on running 1/0 cable to both with a bigger alt upgrade. I think I will just run parallel with a relay for an isolater when needed. I am also trying to figure out how to get a H7 into the driver side tray so I have matching batteries. anyone able to pull that off yet?

 

[bad_idea]

Thank you so much for documenting all of this information guys. I went to Windrock this weekend (Yukon XL tow rig, XJ for the trails), and left the Yukon sitting for the four day weekend. I kept the luggage in the back of the Yukon and was in and out of it all weekend. Went to start it up yesterday and the battery was dead. Had to jump start it.

Will be installing a second battery soon enough.

 

[Rubicon26]

Quick question, the #9 on my ppv feels like it is getting hot and losing power, the lights are going dim and then eventually off, can it be bypassed?

 

[DarkKnight]

This is a great post and thank you to all of the contributors for sharing the information on setting up an oem style dual battery setup. I'm working towards this for my 2017 Yukon XL Denali and have a question about the oem negative cable.

I've seen a great deal of posts/comments/videos elsewhere that the negative cable on these trucks for secondary batteries ought to/needs to run through the ring shaped current sensor located on the negative cable near the primary battery. However, the oem cable runs ~2 feet from the secondary battery to the engine block, and that's it. When there are dual batteries from the factory is there another sensor or is there a reason this is not important when using the oem connections?

Also, and I didn't note this elsewhere, the bolt for attaching the negative cable to the engine block is an M10 x 1.25 in case anyone else needs that information.

Thank you for indulging my first post.

 

[Doubeleive]

This is a great post and thank you to all of the contributors for sharing the information on setting up an oem style dual battery setup. I'm working towards this for my 2017 Yukon XL Denali and have a question about the oem negative cable.

I've seen a great deal of posts/comments/videos elsewhere that the negative cable on these trucks for secondary batteries ought to/needs to run through the ring shaped current sensor located on the negative cable near the primary battery. However, the oem cable runs ~2 feet from the secondary battery to the engine block, and that's it. When there are dual batteries from the factory is there another sensor or is there a reason this is not important when using the oem connections?

Also, and I didn't note this elsewhere, the bolt for attaching the negative cable to the engine block is an M10 x 1.25 in case anyone else needs that information.

Thank you for indulging my first post.

on mine I eventually had a longer ground cable made connecting the grounds on both battery's, there really is no room in the RVC sensor to run 2 cables, so I just connected the grounds together at the 1st battery. which is how multiple battery setups should be connected anyway.

 

[justchecking]

This is a great post and thank you to all of the contributors for sharing the information on setting up an oem style dual battery setup. I'm working towards this for my 2017 Yukon XL Denali and have a question about the oem negative cable.

I've seen a great deal of posts/comments/videos elsewhere that the negative cable on these trucks for secondary batteries ought to/needs to run through the ring shaped current sensor located on the negative cable near the primary battery. However, the oem cable runs ~2 feet from the secondary battery to the engine block, and that's it. When there are dual batteries from the factory is there another sensor or is there a reason this is not important when using the oem connections?

Also, and I didn't note this elsewhere, the bolt for attaching the negative cable to the engine block is an M10 x 1.25 in case anyone else needs that information.

Thank you for indulging my first post.

On my 2011 I ran the aux battery negative to the primary battery negative and the aux battery positive thru the hellroaring isolator to the primary battery positive. It worked perfectly. I used the newest battery as the aux.
On my 2019 I followed the 2019 oem method and ran the oem negative cable from the aux battery negative to the block. I ran my aux battery positive thru the hellroaring isolator to the starter positive. Again I used the newest battery as the aux. It works perfectly as well.
My service manager said it looks great and thought there would be no impacts with any future warranty work.