E-Fansetup must have! Temperature Sensor fitting!!

[saif najd]

No ones ever mentioned them because on a Vortec headed/Vortec block setup they are useless. Vortec heads on a std block, they could be useful if plumbed right, std heads on std block, no not unless it's some special race setup that doesn't have the internal bypass or the block is short filled or something like that.

If you have rust in your coolant you have a problem somewhere it's not the coolant temp sensor, I can assure you of that.

I know the e-fan temp sensor is fitted on the steal pipe which is extremely rusty I dont kniw if it can hold fornmore than 2 weeks


Can I use the spacer to fit the efan sensor? ?


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[retorq]

You can but shouldn't.

 

[saif najd]

You can but shouldn't.

Why I shouldn't?

 

[retorq]

For the same reason you wouldn't put an intake air temp sensor not in the direct path of incoming air.

 

[SunlitComet]

If any adapter you post so far Aziz puts the coolant senosr tip in the direct flow of coolant you should be fine. The ideal location would be the closest to the radiator inlet as possible but the forward half of the upper hose would be great. The only concern is that if getting a fixed temp switch that you get the right spec on it or get and adjustable temp fan control assembly where you can adjust the on-off-temp to fine tune the best fan on-off times for your engine and environment so you cool when your engines radiator needs it but not running it 100% of the time while the thermostat is closing because of to much cooling. Even with where you live.

 

[saif najd]

If any adapter you post so far Aziz puts the coolant senosr tip in the direct flow of coolant you should be fine. The ideal location would be the closest to the radiator inlet as possible but the forward half of the upper hose would be great. The only concern is that if getting a fixed temp switch that you get the right spec on it or get and adjustable temp fan control assembly where you can adjust the on-off-temp to fine tune the best fan on-off times for your engine and environment so you cool when your engines radiator needs it but not running it 100% of the time while the thermostat is closing because of to much cooling. Even with where you live.

Very informative thank you, I want to ask you which reading should I trust?
1-the reading from the factory temp gage?
2- the temp reading from the SG2.

I am asking this because yesterday the factory gage was playing like between (90c ~95c) and the SG2 was like (87c~90c) which one shoukd I trust more??

Yah and then I did replaced tge engine oil and it seemed ok afterwards! ?!

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[SunlitComet]

The sg2. It read what the computer uses to base it calculations on. The dash gauge is okay but only reads the left bank really. The sg2 doesn't have a needle that can stick. Of course they still us thermistors in the senders but if something were to start acting up the computer one there is a chance that the pcm will realize it and notify you. But between comparing the two the two together it provides insight on something being really off sometimes and might just save you big time one day. There will always be minute differences between them. Clean and dirty old oil will have a small effect on it too.

 

[saif najd]

The sg2. It read what the computer uses to base it calculations on. The dash gauge is okay but only reads the left bank really. The sg2 doesn't have a needle that can stick. Of course they still us thermistors in the senders but if something were to start acting up the computer one there is a chance that the pcm will realize it and notify you. But between comparing the two the two together it provides insight on something being really off sometimes and might just save you big time one day. There will always be minute differences between them. Clean and dirty old oil will have a small effect on it too.

Aha good, it did save many times but I am still confused I am thinking of replacing the old temp sensor

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[SunlitComet]

There is always the possibility it could be covered in rust or debris or to much much thread sealant of some sort effecting it ability to provide accurate resistance to the gauge for it to be accurate. When you have the system drained for your work check it out.

 

[saif najd]

There is always the possibility it could be covered in rust or debris or to much much thread sealant of some sort effecting it ability to provide accurate resistance to the gauge for it to be accurate. When you have the system drained for your work check it out.

I will,

This from my last work, this as you all can see is the old pipe holding thee temp switch (from a Mercedes) (electric temp switch) and as you can see very bad shape holes every where and melting:




This to show what is going on:



The temp switch:


The zone:

I found out that this relay as you can see is acting as the master brain of the system it is connected to the A/C clutch and the ground and temp switch and the other powering relay to the efans!!!

This the feuse box and the efan powering relays l


This the final electric simi rewiring: (it is only for the ground I chosed this spot as it is chosen by GM)


This how the pipe was placed: (you can see the temp switch)


This is the efan powering relaysFord)


Verey good quality but one of them is not working and I couldn't find a new one I found similar.

Now..

This the new pipe made out of copper and it will hold the temp switch or sensor:


Final look:


I had to try the new modification so I took a road trip to another city and came back ( thay have a good sea food restaurant)

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