EasyCare Extended Warranty

[DuraYuk]

As @OR VietVet originally stated, set yourself up a savings account for anticipated future repairs of the truck. When I purchased my new-to-me 07 Yukon XL Denali with 125,000 miles on it, I simultaneously set up a savings account and put $350 per month into it. So far, I have not run the savings account to zero, yet I've rebuilt the entire front and rear suspensions, a set of new tires, and I have installed several mods several mods out of this account.

If your transmission goes it's game over. And most do before 100k. I fixed them. Your hedging your bets against the big stuff. Suspension is cheap.

 

[OR VietVet]

Agreed with the in-service date. I know there are options that start after the factory warranty, but I don't think they are as comprehensive. Insurance companies will sell ANYTHING that they think they will profit from. Just depends on how big of a Karen you want to be when it comes time to get them to cover stuff.

When I ran shops and I had to call these warranty companies to get my customer coverage on their vehicles, at least 50% to 60% of the time, it was a fight to get that coverage. The deal breaker was always when they said that an inspector would need to be sent out to inspect for coverage. I would have to tell my customer and then they needed car/truck, so they would tell me to just fix it and then they had to then argue with the warranty company. Sometimes they got SOME money from them but not often. The warranty company counted on this scenario. It is way better now, I would think, with the cell phone pics that can be sent. But I still stand by my claims that the %'s are always in the favor of the warranty company. If you have a savings account and especially if you can do the work yourself, you can save money. Not always, but more than 50% of the time.

 

[DuraYuk]

When I ran shops and I had to call these warranty companies to get my customer coverage on their vehicles, at least 50% to 60% of the time, it was a fight to get that coverage. The deal breaker was always when they said that an inspector would need to be sent out to inspect for coverage. I would have to tell my customer and then they needed car/truck, so they would tell me to just fix it and then they had to then argue with the warranty company. Sometimes they got SOME money from them but not often. The warranty company counted on this scenario. It is way better now, I would think, with the cell phone pics that can be sent. But I still stand by my claims that the %'s are always in the favor of the warranty company. If you have a savings account and especially if you can do the work yourself, you can save money. Not always, but more than 50% of the time.

Some aftermarket companies are like that. Especially home warranties. Manufacturer extended warranties are solid so long as you read what's covered and whats not. It was very common for us to look a vehicle completely over right before the GM pp would expire and fix a whole ton of stuff for a customer.

 

[OR VietVet]

I bought the 96 month 100k 0 deductible GM PP platinum warranty. 3000 was the cost. It runs concurrently so you get 3/36k factory bumper to bumper then additional 5 years 64k for a total of 8 years and 100k miles.

The deductible cost makes a difference in total price as does when it's purchased. Cheapest when vehicle is new. The GM PP is fully transferable too.

So, the overlap leaves you with the difference, as I suspected. That makes no sense to me at all. You are paying for 3/36 of extended warranty that is not needed. The bumper to bumper is already covering the repairs. Instead of $3000 at new vehicle delivery for the extended warranty, what is the extended warranty price after the end of the bumper to bumper? Is it the same $3000 for the 5 years and 64k left over, if you bought the extended warranty then? So, I need to understand at that point, what is the advantage of the extended warranty purchase at new vehicle delivery, unless the cost for it at the end of the bumper to bumper is way out there?

 

[DuraYuk]

So, the overlap leaves you with the difference, as I suspected. That makes no sense to me at all. You are paying for 3/36 of extended warranty that is not needed. The bumper to bumper is already covering the repairs. Instead of $3000 at new vehicle delivery for the extended warranty, what is the extended warranty price after the end of the bumper to bumper? Is it the same $3000 for the 5 years and 64k left over, if you bought the extended warranty then? So, I need to understand at that point, what is the advantage of the extended warranty purchase at new vehicle delivery, unless the cost for it at the end of the bumper to bumper is way out there?

So say you buy the 96 month 100k at 35,999 miles. It will still be the same warranty as if you bought it at 0 miles. Same duration. The cost is the only thing that's different. It costs more toward the end of your bumper to bumper. In the case of GM PP you can't buy it unless you have some original warranty left. Understand ? Same with age of unit. Costs more if it's closer to 3 years old VS new.

The terms are misleading. A 100k extended warranty is really a 64k extended warranty. The terms they sell it by are total coverage including your original 36k bumper to bumper.

 

[OR VietVet]

Some aftermarket companies are like that. Especially home warranties. Manufacturer extended warranties are solid so long as you read what's covered and whats not. It was very common for us to look a vehicle completely over right before the GM pp would expire and fix a whole ton of stuff for a customer.

Wouldn't the inspected for items found need to be BAD/BROKEN because I know back when, that extended warranty did not cover wear and tear items. Again, I know not all of them are the same but I gotta wonder.

 

[OR VietVet]

So say you buy the 96 month 100k at 35,999 miles. It will still be the same warranty as if you bought it at 0 miles. Same duration. The cost is the only thing that's different. It costs more toward the end of your bumper to bumper. In the case of GM PP you can't buy it unless you have some original warranty left. Understand ? Same with age of unit. Costs more if it's closer to 3 years old VS new.

That is what I am asking. What would the price difference be, using the $3000 scenario if bought at new delivery as opposed to buying at end or just before end of 3/36?

 

[DuraYuk]

That is what I am asking. What would the price difference be, using the $3000 scenario if bought at new delivery?

i bought mine from a known warranty salesman. He sells GM extended warranty for cheap. With that said the price fluctuates from dealer to dealer. Some charge double. Some sell it for a loss to 'sweeten' the deal etc. 3000 for the 96 month 100k warranty is as good as it gets barring someone selling it for a loss. Make sense?

 

[Stbentoak]

If it was 3000 when you bought the vehicle new, it could very well be 4 to 4500. If you wait till the end of 336. They know you are waffling at the end of 336 and you may think a big repair is coming, so they are going to penalize you for not buying right out of the box when you bought the vehicle new. Regardless, the term duration is the same length. it’s just how much you pay and when….
Of course you have to think about how long do you want to keep the vehicle. I usually get a new vehicle every 6 to 7 years, so I never buy any more than that length of time. By then there are newer things on the market and I’m usually ready for something else. I’m not young and I’m not going to live forever so I don’t plan on keeping a vehicle 10 15 years.

 

[DuraYuk]

Wouldn't the inspected for items found need to be BAD/BROKEN because I know back when, that extended warranty did not cover wear and tear items. Again, I know not all of them are the same but I gotta wonder.

GM pp covers a lot of wear and tear items. The platinum is a exclusion warranty. Everything is covered unless it's expressly excluded. Even seals and shocks are covered.