Starkworks
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2025
- Posts
- 1
- Reaction score
- 1
2020 Chevy Suburban w/ 110,000 miles
Before tear down issues: progressive slipping/flares from drive. Noticed predominantly after driving for a period of time and warmed up. Able to engage and drive after a period of cool down. A code finally popped up with a p2723. Lost all gears, including reverse. I had to have the truck towed home.
During tear down:
- metallic dust in the pan. Assuming torque converter failure, I proceeded with a complete tear down.
- Pulled apart the valve body. No check balls in appeared to be shrunken or stuck. The valves appeared to be free moving and no excessive wear on any of them.
- TEHCM: all TFP switches were intact.
- Disassembled Stator Pump: slight scarring on the pump body side and pump cover surface.
- 1-2-3-4/3-5-R housing, friction and steels looked good. Pistons good. Bearing no abnormal wear. O rings intact. No apparent cracks in weld.
- 4-5-6 housing, friction and steels were burned up. Piston looked intact. No cracks in housing though.
- center support and components looked good.
- 1-2-3-4 clutch hub looked good
- 2-6/3-5-R clutch hub looked good
- Rear carrier was intact and all gears were freely spinning.
- output carrier was fine.
Assembly:
- valve body: cleaned and installed transgo kit with new check balls. Vacuum checked all valves.
- TEHCM: cleaned and changed orange pressure switch covers and seals. All continuity testing was good.
- Stator pump: buffed out the slight scarring. Installed transgo valve kit. New seals. Reused other components. Installed new gasket.
- kept all bearings throughout as they didn’t have any scarring and thrust bearings moved easily. Nothing appeared out of place.
- replaced all frictions and reused metals in all but the 4-5-6. Replaced 4-5-6 metals and frictions.
- 4-5-6: new pistons, frictions and steels. New Teflon. Pressure checked on stator.
- 1-2-3-4/3-5-R: new frictions and pistons. New O rings. I did not specifically test for leaks as I heard that the welds are improved in the newer 6L80s. But, I did place on stator and test. No leaks that I could tell. Stator kept pressure as well.
- 2-6: new frictions
- low and reverse: new frictions
- center support: pressure test was good
- lubed everything up
After assembly:
- refilled with dexron VI
- started the truck up and have reverse. Drive works, but doesn’t shift. Flares at about 5 mph
- checked manual mode:
- 1st flares around 5
- 2nd feels like it’s binding? When in second truck doesn’t move at all and feels stuck.
- 3-6 flare around 5.
- hooked an autel scanner up and solenoids and switches appear to be working in the mode they are supposed to.
- went ahead and ordered a TEHCM, but will wait to install until I can rule of everything else.
- thermostat bypass
- reman converter
No clue what to try from here. I am an amateur at this but love learning about these transmissions! Watched quite a many hours of @NickTransmissions, which has been a huge help.
Before tear down issues: progressive slipping/flares from drive. Noticed predominantly after driving for a period of time and warmed up. Able to engage and drive after a period of cool down. A code finally popped up with a p2723. Lost all gears, including reverse. I had to have the truck towed home.
During tear down:
- metallic dust in the pan. Assuming torque converter failure, I proceeded with a complete tear down.
- Pulled apart the valve body. No check balls in appeared to be shrunken or stuck. The valves appeared to be free moving and no excessive wear on any of them.
- TEHCM: all TFP switches were intact.
- Disassembled Stator Pump: slight scarring on the pump body side and pump cover surface.
- 1-2-3-4/3-5-R housing, friction and steels looked good. Pistons good. Bearing no abnormal wear. O rings intact. No apparent cracks in weld.
- 4-5-6 housing, friction and steels were burned up. Piston looked intact. No cracks in housing though.
- center support and components looked good.
- 1-2-3-4 clutch hub looked good
- 2-6/3-5-R clutch hub looked good
- Rear carrier was intact and all gears were freely spinning.
- output carrier was fine.
Assembly:
- valve body: cleaned and installed transgo kit with new check balls. Vacuum checked all valves.
- TEHCM: cleaned and changed orange pressure switch covers and seals. All continuity testing was good.
- Stator pump: buffed out the slight scarring. Installed transgo valve kit. New seals. Reused other components. Installed new gasket.
- kept all bearings throughout as they didn’t have any scarring and thrust bearings moved easily. Nothing appeared out of place.
- replaced all frictions and reused metals in all but the 4-5-6. Replaced 4-5-6 metals and frictions.
- 4-5-6: new pistons, frictions and steels. New Teflon. Pressure checked on stator.
- 1-2-3-4/3-5-R: new frictions and pistons. New O rings. I did not specifically test for leaks as I heard that the welds are improved in the newer 6L80s. But, I did place on stator and test. No leaks that I could tell. Stator kept pressure as well.
- 2-6: new frictions
- low and reverse: new frictions
- center support: pressure test was good
- lubed everything up
After assembly:
- refilled with dexron VI
- started the truck up and have reverse. Drive works, but doesn’t shift. Flares at about 5 mph
- checked manual mode:
- 1st flares around 5
- 2nd feels like it’s binding? When in second truck doesn’t move at all and feels stuck.
- 3-6 flare around 5.
- hooked an autel scanner up and solenoids and switches appear to be working in the mode they are supposed to.
- went ahead and ordered a TEHCM, but will wait to install until I can rule of everything else.
- thermostat bypass
- reman converter
No clue what to try from here. I am an amateur at this but love learning about these transmissions! Watched quite a many hours of @NickTransmissions, which has been a huge help.
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