Extra battery or Replace Battery (need help)
- Thread starter ROBERTOcritser
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tahoe02
TYF Newbie
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i turned down the gain and now it doesnt dim the lights that much but still a lil bit when i turn the sw up
rigo_jones
going against
Eagle u the man. thanks for the info, im probably going with a bigger alternator. big ending with the GI Joe video lol.
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ROBERTOcritser
Full Access Member
so your sayin my amp is bad, maybe? also I still havent found out what the Big 3 upgrade is....
well , ican;t say brother. that is the problem. I can point out some checks for you to do, and If it were here, I could figure it out in about 20 minutes.
I don't even know what amp you have to state, 'yeah, that one has insufficient capacitance' or what size wiring you have used (hopefully 2ga or 0 ga.)
big 3:
upgrading the wire from the alternator to the battery, battery to ground and engine block to ground. (note that he second one isn;t even IN the amp's electron flow path).
I don't even know what amp you have to state, 'yeah, that one has insufficient capacitance' or what size wiring you have used (hopefully 2ga or 0 ga.)
big 3:
upgrading the wire from the alternator to the battery, battery to ground and engine block to ground. (note that he second one isn;t even IN the amp's electron flow path).
ok, here is a question then, & sorry for missing that key info previously. the slash series are current hungry mothers... always have been.
If you have 2 0hm subs, or DVC 4 ohm subs it might be wired to a 1 ohm load instead of 4 ohm. That would CERTAINLY cause an increase in current consumption as it would be very very inefficient.
like wise if it were wired to 8 ohms instead of 2 ohms, you;d be running excessive gain to make up for the <correct> lack of output.
What is the impedence being presented to the amp?
8 ohm? 6 ohm? 4ohm? 3ohm? 2 ohm? 1ohm? 0.5 ohm (DMM across the two wires while NOT connected to the amp)
remember the 1000 1 is only 1.5 ohm stable at best (and 4 ohm is far better, while 2 ohm is also just fine). The RIPS technology means they are current hungry mother-funkers...
That is the price you pay for not having to worry (as much) about impedance matching.
If you have 2 0hm subs, or DVC 4 ohm subs it might be wired to a 1 ohm load instead of 4 ohm. That would CERTAINLY cause an increase in current consumption as it would be very very inefficient.
like wise if it were wired to 8 ohms instead of 2 ohms, you;d be running excessive gain to make up for the <correct> lack of output.
What is the impedence being presented to the amp?
8 ohm? 6 ohm? 4ohm? 3ohm? 2 ohm? 1ohm? 0.5 ohm (DMM across the two wires while NOT connected to the amp)
remember the 1000 1 is only 1.5 ohm stable at best (and 4 ohm is far better, while 2 ohm is also just fine). The RIPS technology means they are current hungry mother-funkers...
That is the price you pay for not having to worry (as much) about impedance matching.
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ROBERTOcritser
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I cant find the delete for a post. haha
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NO problem...
are you sure you have "REAL" 4 ga and not 6 ga in a 4ga sheath? There is a LOT of that going around?
Single 12w7? or two? Single you should be fine...
are you sure you have "REAL" 4 ga and not 6 ga in a 4ga sheath? There is a LOT of that going around?
Single 12w7? or two? Single you should be fine...
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ROBERTOcritser
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single W7 it should be wired straight from the factory which I think is either 1.5 ohms or 3 but Im really not sure what ohm load its at right now but Ill try to find out for sure. and it should be true 4ga. I really cant be sure myself but Im very close to getting 0ga wiring kit. I know the 1000/1 only takes 4ga but thats something else I wanted to ask you about.... the car audio store Ive been talkin to says you can make 0ga go down to 4ga.... its a big Memphis 0ga wiring kit with all kinds of stuff (17ft 0awg wire, RCA's and some weird blocks... they said they were I think distribution blocks and something that makes 0awg funnel down to 4awg and some other weird blocks) I guess it is possible to use 0awg wire on a 4awg hole isnt it?
BTW I kinda wish I did have 2 W7's haha but that would be pretty overkill. I'm really trying to get this straightened out so I can put another amp in there for my high's and I really dont wanna run door speakers that dont require an amp cuz I think they will get better sound. Plus Ive already bought a pair JL C2 6.5's to go up front. I just wanna get this figured out before I start puttin more of a load on my system.
lastly, I kinda plan on having pretty much everything JL cuz from what Ive experienced, I think they have great products, even if it is pricey. I feel I can trust whatever else they make. (If they made a deck, Id prolly end up getting it haha)
BTW I kinda wish I did have 2 W7's haha but that would be pretty overkill. I'm really trying to get this straightened out so I can put another amp in there for my high's and I really dont wanna run door speakers that dont require an amp cuz I think they will get better sound. Plus Ive already bought a pair JL C2 6.5's to go up front. I just wanna get this figured out before I start puttin more of a load on my system.
lastly, I kinda plan on having pretty much everything JL cuz from what Ive experienced, I think they have great products, even if it is pricey. I feel I can trust whatever else they make. (If they made a deck, Id prolly end up getting it haha)
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