I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 with 230k miles on. I went to start it the other day and it was dead. I jumped it and it started right up. Then it was dead 2 hours later when I tried to start it again. Now when I turn the key forward and hold it there it makes an almost winding up noise which gradually gets faster and then it starts. I turned it on earlier to check the battery and alternator voltage( which are fine) shut it off then restarted it with no issue. Any help is much appreciated.
Extremely slow dragging starter
- Thread starter MsKitty84
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S33k3r
Full Access Member
Sounds like your starter.
Joseph Garcia
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^^x2^^ The solenoid that engages the starter gear to the flywheel gear is not operating correctly. Some solenoids are replaceable, and some are not (integrated into the starter housing). A new starter will most likely solve your issue.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Could be something inside the starter causing the drain. I would say the issue is most likely starter. I would hold off on replacing the battery for now. Replacing the starter just might solve the battery drain problem.
I had almost 200k miles on my 05.
I was having intermittent no-crank/no-starts over the winter. I was really thinking it was an issue with the Passlock 2 sensor or a switch on the door latch telling the security system to prevent it from starting. I would go through a ritual of opening and closing the door, waiting 2 minutes and trying again. I must have looked funny to other people in the parking lots.
It always managed to start at some point, so I put dealing with it on back burner. I did not want to get into projects that involved working on the truck out in the bitter cold.
Then, in April complete no start. I had my Tech 2 scan tool and was able to determine battery voltage, ignition and park/neutral looked OK. Went with the starter replacement.
I had been thinking my issue was more complex and possibly involving the security system. It was not. The starter was my issue all along. My Tahoe has been starting all the time since.
I had almost 200k miles on my 05.
I was having intermittent no-crank/no-starts over the winter. I was really thinking it was an issue with the Passlock 2 sensor or a switch on the door latch telling the security system to prevent it from starting. I would go through a ritual of opening and closing the door, waiting 2 minutes and trying again. I must have looked funny to other people in the parking lots.
It always managed to start at some point, so I put dealing with it on back burner. I did not want to get into projects that involved working on the truck out in the bitter cold.
Then, in April complete no start. I had my Tech 2 scan tool and was able to determine battery voltage, ignition and park/neutral looked OK. Went with the starter replacement.
I had been thinking my issue was more complex and possibly involving the security system. It was not. The starter was my issue all along. My Tahoe has been starting all the time since.
Get the battery load tested and replace it if it fails or is marginal. Then move on to the starter diagnosis.
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Check your ground.
SOLVED!!!!! I had the same issues. I changed that starter and battery and it still started slow and the clock would reset to 12:00. I then cleaned the braided ground from the firewall to the engine block. The small ground that runs from the battery terminal to the front bumper underneath. Cleaned the battery terminals with sandpaper and replaced the terminal volts. I also added another ground from the firewall terminal to a stud on the exhaust manifold. I connected the battery and got in the truck and noticed the clock said 12:04. I started the truck and it started smooth and quick with no drag. I shut it off and restarted it and the clock kept its time and starts great. I did notice the ground terminal bolt was stripped out inside the battery.
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rockola1971
Full Access Member
Get rid of the ground that you to the exhasut manifold to firewall! Contrary to popular belief, adding extra grounds does not help. It can actually cause problems. Now if you want to take the firewall to engine block ground and replace it with a large wire or even 2 wires then that is fine but if your vehicle needed an extra ground from the firewall to the manifold then GM would've put it there.
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