Factory tow hitch

[viven44]

Added a factory tow hitch on my recently acquired low mileage 2002 Yukon. It had the harness tucked underneath with a factory installed plug.

The tow / haul button on the column shifter didn’t do anything when I checked it a couple days ago but hopefully it does now… (if it doesn’t I saw somewhere here it was a common problem from a wire getting chewed up in the column)

What is the factory manual torque spec for the 6 grade 10 metric bolts for the tow hitch ?

PS: I picked up 2 tow hitch receivers on marketplace last evening, thankfully one of them (off another Yukon) bolted up. The one off the Yukon XL didn’t and it required one of the bolt locations to be modified slightly so I’m glad I picked up 2 of them.

 

[Fless]

Added a factory tow hitch on my recently acquired low mileage 2002 Yukon. It had the harness tucked underneath with a factory installed plug.

The tow / haul button on the column shifter didn’t do anything when I checked it a couple days ago but hopefully it does now… (if it doesn’t I saw somewhere here it was a common problem from a wire getting chewed up in the column)

What is the factory manual torque spec for the 6 grade 10 metric bolts for the tow hitch ?

PS: I picked up 2 tow hitch receivers on marketplace last evening, thankfully one of them (off another Yukon) bolted up. The one off the Yukon XL didn’t and it required one of the bolt locations to be modified slightly so I’m glad I picked up 2 of them.


View attachment 438377

Have you installed the trailer light fuses yet, and tested the 7-blade for lighting and ground?

 

[viven44]

Have you installed the trailer light fuses yet, and tested the 7-blade for lighting and ground?

No I haven't done that. I had assumed all necessary fuses would be in place but good to know I'll need to do that. I was going to run up to a UHAUL nearby to test but I can probe out for voltage myself I suppose with the various lighting positions. (The 7 pin harness should be generic so I'll look up the pin diagram...)

Any idea on what the torque spec is for those bolts ? Currently I've done those to 50 ft lbs... If I can't find the factory specs, I'll do them to ~75 ft lbs and leave it there.

 

[Doubeleive]

Added a factory tow hitch on my recently acquired low mileage 2002 Yukon. It had the harness tucked underneath with a factory installed plug.

The tow / haul button on the column shifter didn’t do anything when I checked it a couple days ago but hopefully it does now… (if it doesn’t I saw somewhere here it was a common problem from a wire getting chewed up in the column)

What is the factory manual torque spec for the 6 grade 10 metric bolts for the tow hitch ?

PS: I picked up 2 tow hitch receivers on marketplace last evening, thankfully one of them (off another Yukon) bolted up. The one off the Yukon XL didn’t and it required one of the bolt locations to be modified slightly so I’m glad I picked up 2 of them.


View attachment 438377

The tow button should work regardless of anything, so what happens is the wire is super thin and often breaks right under the steering column from shifting the gear lever up and down, so check there first for a break and repair as necessary, all it is a momentary ground to the bcm.

 

[viven44]

The tow button should work regardless of anything, so what happens is the wire is super thin and often breaks right under the steering column from shifting the gear lever up and down, so check there first for a break and repair as necessary, all it is a momentary ground to the bcm.

Thanks sir. I'll check on that.

 

[Fless]

No I haven't done that. I had assumed all necessary fuses would be in place but good to know I'll need to do that. I was going to run up to a UHAUL nearby to test but I can probe out for voltage myself I suppose with the various lighting positions. (The 7 pin harness should be generic so I'll look up the pin diagram...)

Any idea on what the torque spec is for those bolts ? Currently I've done those to 50 ft lbs... If I can't find the factory specs, I'll do them to ~75 ft lbs and leave it there.

The contact diagram is probably molded into the lid that covers the contacts. You'll notice that one of the contacts on the right is for the right turn signal / brake, and one on the left is for the left turn signal / brake.

If you'll need hotel power for the trailer, that's a connection that will need to be made at the fusebox (and fuse), and there is a similar connection for a trailer brake controller. All you need for the light system, though, are regular fuses.

 

[viven44]

The contact diagram is probably molded into the lid that covers the contacts. You'll notice that one of the contacts on the right is for the right turn signal / brake, and one on the left is for the left turn signal / brake.

If you'll need hotel power for the trailer, that's a connection that will need to be made at the fusebox (and fuse), and there is a similar connection for a trailer brake controller. All you need for the light system, though, are regular fuses.

Thanks for this information. I'll see if the fuses are present already, if not go ahead and add them. I have a good stock of various mini fuses.

I'm usually quick to act and figure things out...

Just in no hurry to tow anything yet

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

You may have to remove steering wheel, instrument bezel molding, and knee bulster to get wheel molding off without ripping it. It sounds like a lot but isn't too hard. It will be the orange wire. I have had it break a few times. Bought my own wheel puller as it kept having to fix it.

 

[Doubeleive]

You may have to remove steering wheel, instrument bezel molding, and knee bulster to get wheel molding off without ripping it. It sounds like a lot but isn't too hard. It will be the orange wire. I have had it break a few times. Bought my own wheel puller as it kept having to fix it.

shouldn't have to do all that, the tow button is integrated into the shifter arm and just snakes down under the column and then down to the bcm. if the wire is broke right at the shifter arm too short to repair then just get a new shifter arm. typically the wire breaks right wear it pivots from the shifter being moved up/down
just remove the plastic cover around the steering column and you have access to it right there.

 

[viven44]

You may have to remove steering wheel, instrument bezel molding, and knee bulster to get wheel molding off without ripping it. It sounds like a lot but isn't too hard. It will be the orange wire. I have had it break a few times. Bought my own wheel puller as it kept having to fix it.

I’ve only had to remove dash and steering columns a dozen times on classic trucks for various reasons/restorations… but those are low complexity vehicles… I am not looking forward to doing this on a 2002 year model with all the plastic that can break .. but sounds like that won't be a problem in this vintage ... may be more of a 80s and 90s thing for all that early plastic to break