Fixing the Famous *CLUNK* Noise

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Skizzot

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4WD cannot use grease due to use of Auto Track II in TC. (I've posted the info below.) I just serviced the front/rear differentials and transfer case. No pump rub hole in the TC yet and I'll be doing the TC pump upgrade in the near future. Transfer Case Pump Upgrade parts and watch the "Chevy and GMC Transfer Case Problem" video.

I pulled the driveshaft, cleaned the splines, got off all the rust, etc. and coated it in Auto Track II fluid. (The Auto Track won't "lube" it the way I want but grease will migrate into the TC on 4WD models. After I put it all back together, I still get the clunk. So it's not binding after being cleaned and the bulletin states to "replace the transfer case rear output shaft." Holy hell! Why?!? I have noticed that the clunk sound is coming from inside the TC toward the middle, so probably is a bad shaft which is obviously known by GM to be defective. If you couple the bad TC output shaft with the bad pump assembly which will eat a hole through the case, shouldn't GM have issued a recall and addressed them both at the same time. EVERYONE has these issues!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh....good luck finding a rear output shaft for the NP246 Transfer Case.

#09-04-21-003B: Clunk Noise at Stop or From Launch (Clean/Lubricate Rear Propshaft Slip Yoke Splines) - (Aug 11, 2009)

Subject: Clunk Noise at Stop or from Launch (Clean/Lubricate Rear Propshaft Slip Yoke Splines)

Models: 2007-2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series

2008-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe 1500 Series

2007-2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Series

2008-2009 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 Series

Equipped with 4WD (RPO NQG, NQH)

Attention: This bulletin contains a procedure to clean/lubricate the rear propshaft slip yoke splines and replace, if necessary. Check the history on this vehicle. If the lubrication procedure has been performed previously, then continue on and replace the transfer case rear output shaft.

Condition:
Some customers may comment on a bump feel or clunk noise at a stop or on launch. Customers may also comment that the bump feel or clunk is noticed after the vehicle has come to a complete stop and that it feels as if the vehicle was bumped from behind.

Cause:
This condition may be caused by a slip/stick condition between the rear propshaft slip yoke and the transfer case rear output shaft splines. Braking to a complete stop can force the propshaft slip yoke forward into the transfer case while the vehicle rebounds slightly backward after stopping its momentum.

Correction:
Note: The clunk noise may also be due to fuel movement in the fuel tank when not completely full. If the condition is eliminated after filling the fuel tank, the noise is isolated to the fuel movement in the tank. Please make no repair attempts, as this noise is considered an operating characteristic.

Verify the customer's concern.

Clean/Lubricate Rear PropShaft Slip Yoke Splines
Remove the rear drive shaft. Refer to One-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement in SI.
Inspect the rear propshaft slip yoke splines.
Note: Protect the transfer case rear seal from Brake Clean.

Clean the rear propshaft slip yoke splines with Brake Clean or equivalent and a shop towel.
Assure that the splines are free of rust or other foreign material.
Lubricate the spline with Automatic Transmission Fluid, P/N 88861003 (in Canada, 88861004).
Reinstall the rear drive shaft. Refer to One-Piece Propeller Shaft Replacement in SI.
Road test the vehicle and verify that the noise is gone.
If the vehicle has a repeat concern after lubricating the slip yoke splines, replace the rear output shaft.
Replace Transfer Case Rear Output Shaft
Note: Do Not replace the output shaft unless the cleaning and lubrication procedure is ineffective.

Remove the transfer case assembly. Refer to Transfer Case Assembly Replacement in SI.
Disassemble the transfer case. Refer to Transfer Case Disassemble in SI.
Replace the transfer case rear output shaft. Refer to the Parts Information below.
Assemble the transfer case.
Reinstall the transfer case assembly.

Parts Information:

19133059 - SHAFT, TRFER CASE (RPO NQH)

19133061 - SHAFT, TRFER CASE (RPO NQG)

88861003 (in Canada, 88861004) - Automatic Transmission Fluid
 

royskiies

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do you happen the have the u joint part number that you bought from napa? where did you buy the yoke from? are they u joint from the rear and front the same?


I had napa machine shop press out and press in the u-joints from driveshaft and new slip yoke. I bought 2 new u-joints from napa because I wanted ones with zerk fittings. I removed the old trans extension piece and installed the new one. Greased the yoke splines and installed the driveshaft. Took it for a ride and no noise over speed bumps and no **clunk** when stopping and taking off.
 

royskiies

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i contact fort waynes regarding the yoke and clunk sound, they told me they are not aware of the yoke being the problem on 2wd tahoe and only on 4wd can ya confirm?
 

992dr

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do you happen the have the u joint part number that you bought from napa? where did you buy the yoke from? are they u joint from the rear and front the same?

Each store will have different part numbers.
If you go to any parts store and ask them they will provide you with all the part numbers and the different u-joints available for our vehicles.

i contact fort waynes regarding the yoke and clunk sound, they told me they are not aware of the yoke being the problem on 2wd tahoe and only on 4wd can ya confirm?

Mine is 2wd, replacing those parts did eliminate the clunking.


Hope that helped :)
 

ggeorgia

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Reviving an old thread here -- I understand that the GM part number for the slip yoke in my 2004 Tahoe LT RWD is 7848635. I've looked for a nickel-plated version for this particular part number, but there doesn't seem to be one. I see plenty of nickel-plated aftermarket slip yoke for other variants with different GM part numbers, just not one compatible with 7848635.

I will probably end up going with the only 7848635 option on RockAuto -- this one made by ACDelco , but it doesn't appear to incorporate the nickel-plated feature. If there's a particular aftermarket vendor who you think makes a better slip yoke, nickel-plated or not, I'm all ears.

Thanks guys!
 

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