Front Lower Control Arm Frustration

[Campbesl]

At 197,000 miles its time to refresh the front suspension (for the second time) on my 2012 GMC Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD. However, I am struggling to find reasonably priced LCAs. I've shopped RockAuto, Amazon, AutoZone and Discount Auto but no luck. I do keep finding LCAs that are for the Police Package but no joy for my plain old cast iron LCAs.

Is there somewhere that you all suggest that I shop?

Am I going to have to bite the bullet and replace the ball joints and bushings on my LCAs? I was hoping to avoid that extra work.

Appreciate any input that you can provide. THANKS!

Scott

 

[OR VietVet]

More Information for MOOG RK620888

More Information for TRW JTC1950

More Information for DELPHI TC5574

More Information for DELPHI TC5575

Read the option choices

 

[petethepug]

Since you actually maintain your suspension don’t forget you’ve got the option to swap to the uncommon z71 / 2015+ all aluminum upper, lower C/A and aluminum knuckle combo.

It takes about 24lb off each side to lengthen suspension and z55 lifespan.

The entire alum UCA & LCA with bushings already pressed in can be purchased on the cheap.

Thread 'Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/aluminum-xfe-nnbs-front-suspension-rebuild.146131/

 

[Campbesl]

OR VietVet - Thank you very much for your input. - It looks like the MOOG RK62088 is for the Police Package (PP) which my truck does not have. I don't see clear info on the TRW JTC1950. That is, is it left or right and is it PP or not. The Delphi TC5574 and TC5575 are PERFECT!!!
THANK YOU!

Pete - Thank you very much for your input too. I had read the thread about going aluminum but I don't really want to do the additional work and expense to change out my steering knuckles (remove and reinstall caliper brackets and move my bearing hubs over).

Thanks again guys. You've been great help to me.

Scott

 

[Campbesl]

The final shipment of parts are due to arrive later today. This coming Monday or Tuesday I'm going to replace upper and lower control arms and the inner and outer tie rods. Any hints or suggestions on doing this project? I know to mark the alignment cams and count the number of turns on the tie rods so that I will be able to drive it to get an alignment.

I purchased parts that have grease zircs. What grease is recommended?

THANKS!

Scott

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Campbesl I recommend a large adjustable wrench for the inner tie rods. Probably needs to open up at least 2 inches if not more.

A large sledge hammer and good sized pickle fork is a must for the ball joints.

A jack with 2 jack stands.

Wrenches and ratchets with sockets, and a torque wrench that goes up to 200ft pounds.

You'll need a 32mm(i think?) socket for the large CV nut. Everything else is between size 8mm-22mm.

An assortment of bungie cables are always helpful, Sometimes I'll use them to hold a wrench in place so that I can get 2 hands on the torque wrench.

Use an upside down bucket in the wheel well to hold the brake caliper so it isn't tearing up the break hose.

Impact drills and electric ratchets are useful, all the tools for this job can be purchased at Harbor freight.

 

[Campbesl]

Dustin,

Great input. I have a pretty solid set of tools but I did splurge and buy an inner tie rod tool. I have a 3/8" Milwaukee electric ratchet but I went crazy and bought a 1/2" drive version for this project. Those two tools should make this project a lot easier.

My question was more along the lines of process and or technique.

When I recently replaced my motor mounts and transmission mount, I wrote up a DIY and posted it in the motor mount sticky. I will do the same here when I've completed the project and updated my notes.

Best,

Scott

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Campbesl Start with the parking brake on and put jack stands under the frame near the front doors and get the front wheels off the ground.

I suggest doing 1 side at a time.

Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and remove the caliper and rotor.

Start by loosening the ball joint nuts until they are almost off, jack the lower control arm up a little bit maybe until the lower control arm is at ride height. At this joint your goal is to free the upper and lower ball joints. I’ve had luck with whacking the knuckle with a hammer but if I don’t care about damaging the ball joint boots I’ll just use a pickle fork.

Loosen the outer tie rod nut and remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.

Remove the knuckle.

Remove the CV axle if you have one

Then you can remove the strut.

Then you can mark the upper control arm cams and remove the upper control arm.

Then you can remove the lower control arms, remember the longer lower control arm bolt goes in the rear and the nuts go on the side facing the rear of the Tahoe.

Then you can separate the inner and outer tie rod keeping track of how many turns.

Remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack.

Putting it back together I would start by loosely installing the lower control arm and strut, jack the lower control arm up to ride height while you assemble the rest of the suspension. It’s important to torque everything down with weight on the suspension.

From here it’s basically reverse order.

Be careful to not let the knuckle hang to the side while connected to the new lower ball joint or you’ll pinch the boot keep it straight up and down with a bungle or ratchet strap, I’ve torn boots doing that.

You’ll need some hose clamps to reattach the inner tie rod boot to the steering rack.

Turning the wheels left and right can give you easier access to the hub and brake bolts on the back of the knuckle.

Once it’s all back together only grease the zerks a little bit, you don’t want to over inflate them with grease or your boot with fail early.

Those are just some things that come to mind I hope it’s helpful. Working on these things is really easy once you get the hang of it, I can swap a wheel bearing in like 40 minutes as of yesterday.

 

[Campbesl]

Thank you Dustin. Your insight will be very helpful.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Campbesl I forgot to add that there is a metal band that is stamped onto the inner tie rod boot, you’ll need some snips to break it off and then just use a hose clamp to resecure it when you put it back together