Gauges going haywire

[BigDaddy13440]

My gauges are randomly going all the way to zero, all of my idiot lights are coming on, then the gauges will start reading again. Sometimes it lasts a second or two, but it has occurred for up to 2 minutes. Truck runs just fine when they are down, but it's not something I want to keep happening over and over again.
And, FWIW, I had the entire cluster redone with LED's back in April, along with having the gear indicator re-flowed.

Any thoughts?

 

[PG01]

Grounds? Didn’t you just do alt and battery?

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Grounds? Didn’t you just do alt and battery?

Yes, I did. As of now, am using 1/0 cables I made by crimping lugs in my vise. Just received some Orion battery terminals that use a set-screw, want to clean up the engine bay a bit with the dual batteries and run a dual 1/0 run to the back for my amp. I'm hoping they will make a difference.
My intention is to run a ground from battery 1 to the block, a run to the other battery, and then a second ground from the battery to the frame, with a ground from the block to the same ground on the frame. A single hot run from battery 2 to battery 1, a hot run to the alternator, then two 1/0 runs back to my distribution block, then to my amp. Fused, of course.
Right now, my amp is only (supposedly) 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm, more likely around 700. I eventually intend to swap it out (it's 12 years old) for something in the 1500-2000 rms range, and I don't want it to be underpowered, or have any voltage drop.

 

[Doubeleive]

sounds to me like your cluster is getting a random short and loosing power just like when you shut off the truck and then restart, "all the check lights come on and needles do there thing"
and the truck doesn't even need the cluster to run you can remove it and still drive so if that is a short it wouldn't effect drivability. you might want to start by pulling out the cluster and make sure the harness is nice and snug and clipped in properly. that's where I would start.

 

[Doubeleive]

in addition it wouldn't throw a code either unless it went out for a period of time as the bcm/ecm has a self check and will notice if the cluster is offline but it wont throw a code if it is just brief

 

[M1Gunner]

Don’t leave out checking the harness side of the connector. The terminals inside the plastic connector on the harness will become loose over time and cause your symptoms as if you turned the key off and back on and the cluster does a gauge sweep and bulb test.

You can always pull the cluster free from the dash with it plugged in and turn the key on. Wiggle the connector/wires to see if you can get it to act up.