Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

As an experiment for something totally unrelated, I'm installing my original push rods along with the new rockers. I got the passenger side removed and ran out of daylight. The new rockers are soaking in oil and will be installed tomorrow.

Yeeeah... Stock ones definitely are NOT going in. I thought my push rods were too short. They appear to be too long.

I'm doubting my measurement for the push rod length. When I measured, I did so with a used original head gasket since I was gonna install the heads after the block was in the bay. I figured I'd just subtract .006" for the new gaskets and, well, it's only .006". I didn't fully torque the head into place, I just gave the original bolts something like 35 ft lbs.

Anyway, I'm wanting to double-check everything and, this time, I'm trying the (alleged) factory method for determining push rod length. This way is to fully torque the rocker into place then extend a length checker until there's zero lash. Remove and measure the checker (count the turns) then simply add the desired preload length to that. This method is the complete opposite from the way I originally did it (as instructed by many wise ones) where I tightened the rocker bolt to zero lash then counted the turns, aiming for 3/4-1.5 (or was it 1.25?) turns to torque it. This seems to be a really reliable method. But, apparently, still allows too much variance. I'm pretty precise in my actions so I thought I had it nailed. Maybe with the "stacked tolerances", I was off.

The "factory method" is showing me to have a 7.250" rod length at zero lash. For me to have a .075" preload, I'd need a 7.325" rod. I have 7.350", meaning I have .100" preload. So now I'm trying to determine is that absolutely too much or just "on the high side". Trying the bolt turn method again, I'm coming up with 1.875 turns from zero lash to torqued. I see multiple figures, but the "big dogs" say that one turn equals .047" on the pushrod. If this is true, and if my bolt turn count is accurate, then I'm "only" at .088" preload with the 7.350" rod.

Either way, it looks like I have room to lose .025" with the rod length to end up with either .063"-.075" preload. So, I think I'll be ordering some in hopes they'd be delivered in time to have this thing back together this weekend.

 

[iamdub]

Or you end up like me and just like swiping that card.
My AFR heads don't have hardened tips and require roller tips.

View attachment 366619

Adventure!!!

In addition to a "like-but-don't-like" emoji, we need a "facepalm" one.

 

[Walchit]

Honestly, the circlips likely aren't much of a concern. But, they are a form of spring metal and there could be a flaw in the metallurgy that will only be found in the worst way, at the worst time. It's just introducing another failure point. BTW, the clips have a sharp side and a rolled side. Put the rolled side towards the bushing.

The one bad review on the CHE trunions I found was a guy who put the sharp side towards the bushing and was finding brass in his oil. He didn't sound happy

 

[Just Fishing]

I'm doubting my measurement for the push rod length. When I measured, I did so with a used original head gasket since I was gonna install the heads after the block was in the bay. I figured I'd just subtract .006" for the new gaskets and, well, it's only .006". I didn't fully torque the head into place, I just gave the original bolts something like 35 ft lbs.

Anyway, I'm wanting to double-check everything and, this time, I'm trying the (alleged) factory method for determining push rod length. This way is to fully torque the rocker into place then extend a length checker until there's zero lash. Remove and measure the checker (count the turns) then simply add the desired preload length to that. This method is the complete opposite from the way I originally did it (as instructed by many wise ones) where I tightened the rocker bolt to zero lash then counted the turns, aiming for 3/4-1.5 (or was it 1.25?) turns to torque it. This seems to be a really reliable method. But, apparently, still allows too much variance. I'm pretty precise in my actions so I thought I had it nailed. Maybe with the "stacked tolerances", I was off.

The "factory method" is showing me to have a 7.250" rod length at zero lash. For me to have a .075" preload, I'd need a 7.325" rod. I have 7.350", meaning I have .100" preload. So now I'm trying to determine is that absolutely too much or just "on the high side". Trying the bolt turn method again, I'm coming up with 1.875 turns from zero lash to torqued. I see multiple figures, but the "big dogs" say that one turn equals .047" on the pushrod. If this is true, and if my bolt turn count is accurate, then I'm "only" at .088" preload with the 7.350" rod.

Either way, it looks like I have room to lose .025" with the rod length to end up with either .063"-.075" preload. So, I think I'll be ordering some in hopes they'd be delivered in time to have this thing back together this weekend.

Nice part about roller tips and non-hardened valves = clear roller path

I thought I had this figured out 100% twice now.
but I found out I need longer!

And I'm going with a .030 thick head-gasket vs the .027 gasket i used last time...
I will have some pushrods left over.


I'll make you a hell of a deal once i have this all figured out.

 

[Just Fishing]

I foresee this in my future but with pushrods.

 

[Walchit]

I might end up needing those 7.350 pushrods! Im gonna wait until I get closer to start worrying about them though

 

[Just Fishing]

I might end up needing those 7.350 pushrods! Im gonna wait until I get closer to start worrying about them though

Need some 7.375?
I got what you need!!



It's got Brawndo, Brawndo is what a LS needs!!

 

[iamdub]

The one bad review on the CHE trunions I found was a guy who put the sharp side towards the bushing and was finding brass in his oil. He didn't sound happy

I wouldn't be surprised if CHE or anyone that has this design had instructions specifically outlining this.

 

[iamdub]

Nice part about roller tips and non-hardened valves = clear roller path

I thought I had this figured out 100% twice now.
but I found out I need longer!

And I'm going with a .030 thick head-gasket vs the .027 gasket i used last time...
I will have some pushrods left over.


I'll make you a hell of a deal once i have this all figured out.

Oh, I'm gettin deep now. Instead of new rods, I'm toying with the idea of shimming the pedestals. My stainless steel precision ruler is .020" and was much too thick. So I sliced a strip out of a soda ("pop" for you yankees) can and folded it thrice (yeah, I said that) to make a .012" shim. Just doing all of this to test the concept before I order either shims or rods.

 

[iamdub]

I might end up needing those 7.350 pushrods! Im gonna wait until I get closer to start worrying about them though

If they're available, you'll have first dibs.