Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

I have had luck rotating the engine to get them to compress.

I tried this. Even used a stock push rod that would've applied ~.110" to the current locked position. I turned the crank until the valvespring was really compressed and when it felt like it was locked, I chickened out and stopped. Didn't force it past that point and turned the crank back the other way. Before I did that, I used a lightweight plastic-faced hammer to tap on the stock pushrod to try to rattle the plunger loose in case it was wedged. But then I saw the last three were like that.

I thought maybe all the turning of the crank when getting the previous 13 rockers on their base circles moved enough oil to pump them up. But, the rockers were off of the ones I hadn't measured, so that couldn't have happened. They had to be at the positions they were at when I shut it down last. But, staying "pumped/locked" for a week?

 

[Just Fishing]

I tried this. Even used a stock push rod that would've applied ~.110" to the current locked position. I turned the crank until the valvespring was really compressed and when it felt like it was locked, I chickened out and stopped. Didn't force it past that point and turned the crank back the other way. Before I did that, I used a lightweight plastic-faced hammer to tap on the stock pushrod to try to rattle the plunger loose in case it was wedged. But then I saw the last three were like that.

I thought maybe all the turning of the crank when getting the previous 13 rockers on their base circles moved enough oil to pump them up. But, the rockers were off of the ones I hadn't measured, so that couldn't have happened. They had to be at the positions they were at when I shut it down last. But, staying "pumped/locked" for a week?

You could try pushing down in the center of the lifter to let off of some of the pressure in in there.
There is a little plate right under the center nipple at the top of the lifter.

But the issue is going to be at the bottom of that lifter.
There is a little ball that holds oil to keep the center piece elevated...

in order to manually deflate the lifter, the ball must be pressed.
But to do that, the top needs to come off.
That would be possible, but a massive pita with the heads on.

Long magnetic tool, get that clip off, pull the top of the lifter with the magnet.
then poke something down in the middle to depress the ball while moving the slider down.

Just brainstorming here.


And this is something I learned when I disassembled my lifters for cleaning and checking.
Simple little things.

ETA: I can get pictures to explain what I'm talking about if needed.

 

[iamdub]

You could try pushing down in the center of the lifter to let off of some of the pressure in in there.
There is a little plate right under the center nipple at the top of the lifter.

But the issue is going to be at the bottom of that lifter.
There is a little ball that holds oil to keep the center piece elevated...

in order to manually deflate the lifter, the ball must be pressed.
But to do that, the top needs to come off.
That would be possible, but a massive pita with the heads on.

Long magnetic tool, get that clip off, pull the top of the lifter with the magnet.
then poke something down in the middle to depress the ball while moving the slider down.

Just brainstorming here.


And this is something I learned when I disassembled my lifters for cleaning and checking.
Simple little things.

Of course, the locked lifters were all on the back three of the passenger side head, so the most difficult to access. No way am I gonna play laparoscopic surgeon and take apart a lifter while inside the engine, and surely not while squeezing under the wiper cowl! Intriguing idea, though!

I put it back together yesterday and have put close to 100 miles on it since. It runs and sounds just as it did before I opened it up. If them lifters are actually locked at those positions, their preloads with the 7.350" rods are .08125", .06875" and .075". So, all within acceptable range.

ETA: I can get pictures to explain what I'm talking about if needed.

Thanks, but don't bother. I've taken a few apart when playing and to convert them to solid for use as tools for measuring zero lash. I'm familiar enough with them tiny bits inside to know that I'm not gonna manipulate them through a 12mm hole.

 

[swathdiver]

Of course, the locked lifters were all on the back three of the passenger side head, so the most difficult to access. No way am I gonna play laparoscopic surgeon and take apart a lifter while inside the engine, and surely not while squeezing under the wiper cowl! Intriguing idea, though!

I put it back together yesterday and have put close to 100 miles on it since. It runs and sounds just as it did before I opened it up. If them lifters are actually locked at those positions, their preloads with the 7.350" rods are .08125", .06875" and .075". So, all within acceptable range.




Thanks, but don't bother. I've taken a few apart when playing and to convert them to solid for use as tools for measuring zero lash. I'm familiar enough with them tiny bits inside to know that I'm not gonna manipulate them through a 12mm hole.

I think it's time for a couple of test runs at Capitol Raceway again, it's been about two years since you posted any timeslips!

 

[pwtr02ss]

Of course, the locked lifters were all on the back three of the passenger side head, so the most difficult to access. No way am I gonna play laparoscopic surgeon and take apart a lifter while inside the engine, and surely not while squeezing under the wiper cowl! Intriguing idea, though!

I put it back together yesterday and have put close to 100 miles on it since. It runs and sounds just as it did before I opened it up. If them lifters are actually locked at those positions, their preloads with the 7.350" rods are .08125", .06875" and .075". So, all within acceptable range.




Thanks, but don't bother. I've taken a few apart when playing and to convert them to solid for use as tools for measuring zero lash. I'm familiar enough with them tiny bits inside to know that I'm not gonna manipulate them through a 12mm hole.

Did the new rockers and rods calm everything down?

 

[iamdub]

I think it's time for a couple of test runs at Capitol Raceway again, it's been about two years since you posted any timeslips!

How time flies!

Actually, I'm already past the 2-year anniversary of my baseline runs (3/6/20) and beginning of teardown. My follow-up runs were on 1/18/21.

Those before and after runs were on 55° days. The next TNT will be on the 15th. I doubt it'll be anywhere near that cool. Also, I haven't made any modifications to test. I'd like to see what 90 or 89 octane does, but I need to monitor KR first.

 

[iamdub]

Did the new rockers and rods calm everything down?

The new rockers didn't do anything but replace the old ones, which seemed to be in like-new condition mechanically, just with 215K miles of oil staining. I didn't get new rods. Looking at all the preloads and after double-checking most, only two were at .100". The next highest was .09375", then a couple .0875", some .075" and down to four with the lowest at .06875". If anything, I could get two 7.325" rods to bring them two highest ones down to .075" preload. But, .100" seems to be fine so far, so I'm leaving everything as-is.

 

[iamdub]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:






I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:






Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:






The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:






For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

 

[swathdiver]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:

View attachment 368351




I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:

View attachment 368352




Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:

View attachment 368353




The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:

View attachment 368354




For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

Deja Vu? I've seen this before somewhere...

So when is the wire loom wrapping party in your engine bay? Mine needs doing too!

 

[iamdub]

Deja Vu? I've seen this before somewhere...

So when is the wire loom wrapping party in your engine bay? Mine needs doing too!

Yeah, I figured I'd copy it here to keep this thread somewhat alive.

I can't settle on what I wanna wrap it in! I could get the original style corrugated stuff. But, I'm kinda leaning towards matching that mesh I used on my Big 5 wire upgrade. Summit has some split mesh wrap that would probably match pretty well. I'm just not so sure about it in the bends. Being a more flexible split style, it tends to wrinkle. I don't wanna have a bunch of zip-ties all over it. Whatever I use, I only wanna do it once.