Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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randeez
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i cannot hear the supercharger
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Currently removed, hence the excruciatingly slow acceleration. Didn't wanna boost a piston with donkey footprints in it.
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iamdub
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So, these valve spring compressors are notorious for being crappy. In fact, I was gonna pull the other head to use my hydraulic press to replace the springs on both heads. In minimizing the work/time invested, I decided to try a compressor that looked pretty good. I was pleasantly surprised.
There were two versions on Amazon. One had regular nuts and no storage case. For $1 more, I got the case, tall nuts and with "TOP" engraved on the main tool part:
Quality hardware, and included an extra main stud and extra washers:
I applied some assembly lube to the threads and underside of the flange on the nut. It worked flawlessly for the entire head with no signs of galling, no flexing, etc. I applied more assembly lube before starting on the other head, but I think it would've been fine without it:
The instructions kinda suck. But, if you can't figure it out by looking at it, you probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work. I'm sure it's metric, but I got a spare 3/16 hex wrench from my miscellaneous/spare tools box to keep in the storage box to assemble and disassemble the tool. Yes, I had the spacer on the bottom when it likely would've been better on top. Whatever, it worked fine and I'm glad I invested the $36.99.
There were two versions on Amazon. One had regular nuts and no storage case. For $1 more, I got the case, tall nuts and with "TOP" engraved on the main tool part:
Quality hardware, and included an extra main stud and extra washers:
I applied some assembly lube to the threads and underside of the flange on the nut. It worked flawlessly for the entire head with no signs of galling, no flexing, etc. I applied more assembly lube before starting on the other head, but I think it would've been fine without it:
The instructions kinda suck. But, if you can't figure it out by looking at it, you probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work. I'm sure it's metric, but I got a spare 3/16 hex wrench from my miscellaneous/spare tools box to keep in the storage box to assemble and disassemble the tool. Yes, I had the spacer on the bottom when it likely would've been better on top. Whatever, it worked fine and I'm glad I invested the $36.99.
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iamdub
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In addition to all new valve springs and a few revised length push rods for improved lifter preloads, I also installed those LS3 ignition wires I scored for $42 from an Amazon Warehouse deal back in April. The wires don't come out the side of the spark plug end like with the originals. But the wire is just long enough that they curve just fine without being too tight. They're actually not stretched tight at all- just enough to not have slack to curve. I actually like the straight lines. I also like the color and just having new OEM wires. The originals cleared the header tubes perfectly fine so these have even more clearance:
After all the driving, I don't smell coolant (spilled on the frame when draining) or any of the other chemicals used during the process burning off any more. Just the smell of hot metal, rubber and plastic, as normal. The coolant level in the surge tank is starting at and returning to the "FULL" line through the heat cycles and the oil is staying at the marks. So, the head gasket is holding and nothing is leaking otherwise.
After all the driving, I don't smell coolant (spilled on the frame when draining) or any of the other chemicals used during the process burning off any more. Just the smell of hot metal, rubber and plastic, as normal. The coolant level in the surge tank is starting at and returning to the "FULL" line through the heat cycles and the oil is staying at the marks. So, the head gasket is holding and nothing is leaking otherwise.
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randeez
Full Access Member
less piston=less compression= good for boost
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Right! I could port the #7 intake runner so it gets a little more volume to properly direct that boost. Also, I could have a custom cam made with higher lobe lift and/or more advance on the #7 exhaust side to take advantage of the fly cut piston.
I gotta say, way cleaner hands than I would have had doing this work or.......you wear gloves or just cleaned before pics.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Speaking of boost, my current train of thought with the LC9 is to open it up to delete AFM and deeply inspect the guts. Open up the ring gap for mild-moderate boost and throw a few other beef-up parts (rod bolts, etc.) to help. Swap that in with a small turbo and learn how to tune. Meanwhile, I'll have my LMG on the side to bore (to a safe boosted limit) and forge for higher psi. When I hurt or pop the LC9 or am otherwise ready for it, swap the built LMG in and crank up the psi with an appropriate turbo. Maybe I'll have my built TR6060 installed sometime while the LC9 is in. #puffpuffpass
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iamdub
Full Access Member
My engine is just that clean! It's only been in there for 19K miles.
Nah, fo real, doe, I started out wearing the Harbor Freight 9 mil nitrile gloves but never bothered to put 'em on again past the initial disassembly. A gallon of Zep Cherry Bomb stays on my utility tub and, after all the work was done on that last day, I scrubbed my nails with a toothbrush.
