Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Tonyv__]

Comparing rear bars-

Mostly same shape with slightly more clearance where it matters:

View attachment 387447


Factory bar is 28mm, hollow and 9.8 lbs.

Nolathane bar is 33mm, solid and 24.2 lbs.


End link holes are right at 1/2" closer to the axle. I had the bars centered with each other at the axle mounting points. Also, the holes were more true to size- the 1/2" bolts had noticeably less slack than in the factory bar:

View attachment 387448


The Nolathane axle mount bushings have thicker bases, so bolting up that offset axle bushing was a struggle. I couldn't finish because I need longer bolts for the end links. With the original bar, the bolts would be flush with the nuts when tightened. I'd be lucky to get half a nut threaded with how thick the ends of the new bar are:

View attachment 387449

I have to wonder what the difference between this sway bar and the hellwig bar is.

the hellwig says it fits 2015+ but the brand your using says it doesn’t. They look damn near the same but obviously I’m not comparing them in person




Edit

Actually if I just did a minute of research I wouldn’t have to ask this.

Rockauto list the same part number for rear sway bar on 2008 as it does for 2015. So assuming they’re the same shape still confused why the websites fitment says it won’t fit 2015

Even if i go to nolathanes website. They only offer the front sway bar when I input 2015 Yukon

 

[iamdub]

I have to wonder what the difference between this sway bar and the hellwig bar is.

the hellwig says it fits 2015+ but the brand your using says it doesn’t. They look damn near the same but obviously I’m not comparing them in person

View attachment 390198


Edit

Actually if I just did a minute of research I wouldn’t have to ask this.

Rockauto list the same part number for rear sway bar on 2008 as it does for 2015. So assuming they’re the same shape still confused why the websites fitment says it won’t fit 2015

Even if i go to nolathanes website. They only offer the front sway bar when I input 2015 Yukon

A lot of manufacturers and retail sites don't bother updating fitment info beyond a certain age. The body style changed for 2015, so they might assume the undercarriage might have changes as well. It's why a lot of sites say a drop spring fits '00-'14 when, in actuality, it'll fit up to '20. It's probably more of a CYA thing. They're not necessarily saying it won't fit or work, but they can't guarantee that it will and it's not worth their time to investigate. But, for an individual's firsthand experience in seeing this particular area is the same across the generations, we'd know better. How often do you see Amazon's fitment guide saying "This does not fit 2015 GMC Yukon" for items many other people have bought specifically for this vehicle?

Size- and material-wise, the Nolathane appears to be functianally the same as Hellwig with the exception of the color and rear bar. The Hellwig rear bar has three holes to adjust firmness and includes adjustable end links. The Nolathane bar is advertised as being 1mm thicker, which I'd say is totally negligible. Being lowered and needing offset links, the adjustable Hellwig links would be a waste for me. For suiting me better and costing a few hundred less, I'm plenty satisfied with the Nolathane.

I bought them as a front and rear kit off Amazon, Nolathane part #REV013.0030. I documented each bar's part number here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1735470. If all you want is the rear, you might be able to find it by that number. Or just do yourself a favor and upgrade both. There's still one kit left on Amazon cuz @pwtr02ss hasn't bought it yet. https://www.amazon.com/Nolathane-REV013-0030-Swaybar-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B07VFD1QDM

 

[Tonyv__]

A lot of manufacturers and retail sites don't bother updating fitment info beyond a certain age. The body style changed for 2015, so they might assume the undercarriage might have changes as well. It's why a lot of sites say a drop spring fits '00-'14 when, in actuality, it'll fit up to '20. It's probably more of a CYA thing. They're not necessarily saying it won't fit or work, but they can't guarantee that it will and it's not worth their time to investigate. But, for an individual's firsthand experience in seeing this particular area is the same across the generations, we'd know better. How often do you see Amazon's fitment guide saying "This does not fit 2015 GMC Yukon" for items many other people have bought specifically for this vehicle?

Size- and material-wise, the Nolathane appears to be functianally the same as Hellwig with the exception of the color and rear bar. The Hellwig rear bar has three holes to adjust firmness and includes adjustable end links. The Nolathane bar is advertised as being 1mm thicker, which I'd say is totally negligible. Being lowered and needing offset links, the adjustable Hellwig links would be a waste for me. For suiting me better and costing a few hundred less, I'm plenty satisfied with the Nolathane.

I bought them as a front and rear kit off Amazon, Nolathane part #REV013.0030. I documented each bar's part number here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1735470. If all you want is the rear, you might be able to find it by that number. Or just do yourself a favor and upgrade both. There's still one kit left on Amazon cuz @pwtr02ss hasn't bought it yet. https://www.amazon.com/Nolathane-REV013-0030-Swaybar-Suspension-Stabilizer/dp/B07VFD1QDM

I only questioned the rear because it didn’t show fitment. But the front says it’ll fit. I’m considering them since I also don’t want to spend hellwig money

 

[iamdub]

I only questioned the rear because it didn’t show fitment. But the front says it’ll fit. I’m considering them since I also don’t want to spend hellwig money

That's kinda odd. I looked up images of the rear suspension of a 2015 and it looked essentially identical. AFAIK, it'll work fine.

 

[SpineDock]

Replaced the stock 80-lb. trash can of a muffler with an AP Exhaust XS1259.

Made some comparison vids. Slow rev to limiter (4,000 RPM, I think) then a few WOT blasts to limiter.

Before:

After:

Honestly, it's much less aggressive than what I wanted. With the muffler being about a 1/4 the size of the stock one and almost straight through, I expected it to be louder. My best description is that it's basically the stock note/tone, but with the volume turned up one or two clicks. Comparing the videos, the XS actually sounds quieter. It's definitely louder, but deeper. Very smooth and mellow. Maybe the camera recorded the sound differently? The sound it gives off seems to cancel out the growl from the MIT. When cruising, it sounds almost 100% stock and you can barely hear a deep rumble coming from behind you. It's definitely noticeable when you mash on it, but it's still not as aggressive as I was hoping for. I'm gonna run it and see if it changes it's tone with age. It may end up being perfect after the packing gets a little clogged and with catless long tubes. If not, I can easily switch to a chambered style like that Jones one @kbuskill has.

Thanks for the info! I am leaning towards some form of modification to my 2015 Tahoe’s stock exhaust.
My question is: did you have any drone sound to worry about when cruising @ 2,000 rpm’s? How about a drone noise with just the resonator?

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for the info! I am leaning towards some form of modification to my 2015 Tahoe’s stock exhaust.
My question is: did you have any drone sound to worry about when cruising @ 2,000 rpm’s?

No cruising drone at all with it. There are instances where the engine noises are louder when under load. It's not necessarily RPM dependent. It's more of intake sound from the MIT and it's only when under load, like when going up an incline and it's not quite enough to downshift. Totally normal and, even then, not so loud. Again, it's mostly from the intake tube. If you have a stock intake, it'll be almost stock volume until you're at hard throttle and high RPM.

BTW, Cherry Bomb now has their version of these mufflers and they're a little cheaper. Look up the "Salute" line. The Cherry Bomb copy of the AP Xlerator I have (#XS1259) is #SA1259.

How about a drone noise with just the resonator?

I assume you mean with just the resonator delete. I couldn't tell any difference with just the resonator gone. It might be for certain frequencies created at certain RPM or maybe even for some created only when AFM is active.

 

[Caddylack]

Even aside from the resonator, our exhaust is constructed nicely for "natural" resonation.

As far as maximizing scavenging and minimizing drone, you generally want the exhaust to get smaller from front to back. We have a nice big Y-pipe that goes into a decent 2.75" mid-pipe. Then the axle-back portion gets smaller in diameter and you have the resonator on the tailpipe.

One notable exception to the "front-to-back" concept is mufflers, as some folks like to go with a muffler that has an inlet/outlet that is slightly larger than the pipe.

Here's a question: What's up with the factory flex pipe? Can I ditch it?

 

[iamdub]

Even aside from the resonator, our exhaust is constructed nicely for "natural" resonation.

As far as maximizing scavenging and minimizing drone, you generally want the exhaust to get smaller from front to back. We have a nice big Y-pipe that goes into a decent 2.75" mid-pipe. Then the axle-back portion gets smaller in diameter and you have the resonator on the tailpipe.

One notable exception to the "front-to-back" concept is mufflers, as some folks like to go with a muffler that has an inlet/outlet that is slightly larger than the pipe.

Yup- goes from 2.75" ahead of the muffler to 2.5" after. There aren't many 2.75" options for aftermarket mufflers so the more common 3" is used. I slid the factory 2.75" inside the 3" muffler inlet and only had a very small gap to weld up. I wanted to keep the size reduction after the muffler so I made a tapered elbow to smoothly transition from the muffler's 3" outlet to the 2.5" tailpipe.

Here's a question: What's up with the factory flex pipe? Can I ditch it?

You can ditch the factory one if you want. But I'd suggest you replace it with another, even if it's aftermarket. The engine twisting in its mounts and all that piping downstream of the flex joint moves independently. It would produce a lot of leverage against the weld seams and rigid coupling points if there wasn't a flexible coupling to isolate the movement.

 

[Caddylack]

You can ditch the factory one if you want. But I'd suggest you replace it with another, even if it's aftermarket. The engine twisting in its mounts and all that piping downstream of the flex joint moves independently. It would produce a lot of leverage against the weld seams and rigid coupling points if there wasn't a flexible coupling to isolate the movement.

Is there anything unique about our platform relative to other platforms that don't have a flex pipe?

If I don't need a flex pipe on a Roadmaster wagon, why do I need one on a Tahoe?

 

[iamdub]

Is there anything unique about our platform relative to other platforms that don't have a flex pipe?

If I don't need a flex pipe on a Roadmaster wagon, why do I need one on a Tahoe?

Maybe the Roadmaster had better engine mounts than the water balloons we have?

Maybe it's a torquing thing- higher power and a heavier vehicle? Also, doesn't the Roadmaster have dual exhaust?