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iamdub

iamdub

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ahh yeah, I think I might have to clock my alt to fit like you did, plus I have two wires running to mine. so the tower would be easier to use but kinda ugly hanging out in the wind haha. they sell the towers for like 9$ if you need one.

I didn't know it was available separately! I'll probably get one for the aesthetics, even though it's not visible with the cover on. I'll double check the wire and how it'd be routed if I were to rotate it 90°.


I'm still working on seeing if it works. they sent me one with different damage than the pics had. this one the 2 pin plug top is broken off, so there's no tab for it to clip on. I'll take some pics and email them about it soon. other than that the thing looks brand new, super low miles.

Dammit! The cracks in the plastic cover and chipped piece of the lug tower wouldn't have meant anything. That broken connector is a legitimate problem. What's so difficult about getting what they're advertising and what you paid for?!

Not to disregard the fact that they should make good on it, but, I suppose that plastic piece isn't an easy swap from your stock alternator?
 

j91z28d1

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yeah, I'd like to have a non broken one but they haven't replied to my message yet about it. I'll give them till Monday. I can't find any parts online for these. it's just 2 screws to swap the voltage regulator, I was going to tell them to send me a good one, or refund what a new one costs. but can't even figure out what this alt is called. like model ad144 or whatever. once you know what an alt is called, everything comes up. this one, no clue. all the alt rebuild sites use the actual model number, not the oem gm number or by application.

but either way, it's a test thing. it doesn't really work like I hopped anyways, seems the e38 ecm does control the pwm, but only after it gets a request from the bcm. these bcm don't have the amp ring input like the trucks, so there's no programming in the bcm to send that request.

2 ways to do it. there's a company that makes a module that hooks into the can + and - and sends a request. it's used for when you swap a ls truck engine into hot rods without a bcm. they don't know if it will work for my setup, it's 249$. if it doesn't, no refund once wired in haha.

other way is completely remote of the ecm. pwm box with a dial I can set it to any voltage I want. that's 80$. seems like the way to go but also if the first way worked, I'd like to have the ecm control it and tune it with hp. there's boost settings where if the voltage drops low at the ecm because of high load, it ramps the pwm up without worry about overcharging the battery long term.

either ways, just setting at the default 13.7 at the terminal, up to temp after a 20mins drive in 100deg Temps, pull in the garage, turn the ac down to max, open the doors so everything ramps to max load, all lights on. saw 92amps and that's with the larger pulley, idled down to stock idle, 700 I think it is, 10% under drive crank pulley and it's solid.. no fluctuation at all in voltage at the terminal. at that load I'm getting about a half volt less at the battery itself and 0.8 less at the dash. only about 0.5v at the dash display when I wasn't going for max load test. might clean up the grounds and terminals, but these cars are dumb and have a small 14g fuseible link inline between the alt and starter, then up to the battery and fuse box. lot of places to drop voltage at 90amps. well cooling fan is straight to the alt terminal, so probably only 55amp or so thru that link. but this is by far the most solid voltage this car has had. I do wanna bump it up to what the agm wants at the battery itself, byond that. it seems worth the hassle to make it work. I swear the car runs smoother, that could be in my head thou haha.

PXL_20230727_190656390.jpg

anyways interesting stuff.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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yeah, I'd like to have a non broken one but they haven't replied to my message yet about it. I'll give them till Monday. I can't find any parts online for these. it's just 2 screws to swap the voltage regulator, I was going to tell them to send me a good one, or refund what a new one costs. but can't even figure out what this alt is called. like model ad144 or whatever. once you know what an alt is called, everything comes up. this one, no clue. all the alt rebuild sites use the actual model number, not the oem gm number or by application.

but either way, it's a test thing. it doesn't really work like I hopped anyways, seems the e38 ecm does control the pwm, but only after it gets a request from the bcm. these bcm don't have the amp ring input like the trucks, so there's no programming in the bcm to send that request.

2 ways to do it. there's a company that makes a module that hooks into the can + and - and sends a request. it's used for when you swap a ls truck engine into hot rods without a bcm. they don't know if it will work for my setup, it's 249$. if it doesn't, no refund once wired in haha.

other way is completely remote of the ecm. pwm box with a dial I can set it to any voltage I want. that's 80$. seems like the way to go but also if the first way worked, I'd like to have the ecm control it and tune it with hp. there's boost settings where if the voltage drops low at the ecm because of high load, it ramps the pwm up without worry about overcharging the battery long term.

either ways, just setting at the default 13.7 at the terminal, up to temp after a 20mins drive in 100deg Temps, pull in the garage, turn the ac down to max, open the doors so everything ramps to max load, all lights on. saw 92amps and that's with the larger pulley, idled down to stock idle, 700 I think it is, 10% under drive crank pulley and it's solid.. no fluctuation at all in voltage at the terminal. at that load I'm getting about a half volt less at the battery itself and 0.8 less at the dash. only about 0.5v at the dash display when I wasn't going for max load test. might clean up the grounds and terminals, but these cars are dumb and have a small 14g fuseible link inline between the alt and starter, then up to the battery and fuse box. lot of places to drop voltage at 90amps. well cooling fan is straight to the alt terminal, so probably only 55amp or so thru that link. but this is by far the most solid voltage this car has had. I do wanna bump it up to what the agm wants at the battery itself, byond that. it seems worth the hassle to make it work. I swear the car runs smoother, that could be in my head thou haha.

View attachment 404968

anyways interesting stuff.


For the costs incurred, you're covered for 1.5 new batteries. Getting 3-4 years out of one instead of 5-6 still puts you ahead of the game. I'd say you're at least "good" with what you have now if the fine-tuning stuff never comes to fruition. Basically, while it might not be what you wanted, it's not a loss.

The seller that sent me a different alternator than what was described took all but one day short of eBay's allowance before they responded. I was hoping they'd miss the deadline and I'd just get a free 220A alternator to experiment with.
 

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oh yeah. I'm good with it forsure. only alt that's a direct bolt on of those merch man ones.. by the time you get setup you're into them for 600$ plus. but vette guys will vette haha.

I'm good with it. just part of the project side of the hobby.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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oh yeah. I'm good with it forsure. only alt that's a direct bolt on of those merch man ones.. by the time you get setup you're into them for 600$ plus. but vette guys will vette haha.

I'm good with it. just part of the project side of the hobby.

I dig it! And I agree. I was looking at the entry-level MechMan with 250A as that was all I needed when @Doubeleive referred me to the factory 220A alts. 30A less but at a fraction of the price? Yes, please. I think they're underrated. Like that 220A rating is while under normal operational loads.

I still haven't looked into what I should or could do to fine-tune the charging within HPT's capabilities to optimize it for the AGM.
 

j91z28d1

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so you got any into on this part number?

the eBay seller send me a new one, it showed up today. totally different alternator. mint looking, has the clutch and a smaller pulley.

but funny thing is, the plug is broken on it too. I had to laugh lol. PXL_20230804_204741866.jpg
 

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j91z28d1

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6.2 6-speed. 6.2 6-speed...


is that what they are from? rating compared to the 13534128 6 phase 220amp one? since this is on the car, I kinda like the idea bigger pulley since it spends a lot of time at high rpm.

at this point I'm not sure what to tell them haha. I have 2 completely different ones. both with the plug clip damaged but both look brand new besides that.
 

swathdiver

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is that what they are from? rating compared to the 13534128 6 phase 220amp one? since this is on the car, I kinda like the idea bigger pulley since it spends a lot of time at high rpm.

at this point I'm not sure what to tell them haha. I have 2 completely different ones. both with the plug clip damaged but both look brand new besides that.
No, this was directed at Chris about another topic.
 

j91z28d1

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ohhh haha.. your truck swapped to a 6.2. that that seems like it would be a sweet swap and buying the salvaged suv seems like the way to go.
 

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