Growing up doesn't have to suck

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Monz11

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Thank you. BTW, your races start tomorrow, yeah?

The wires are just 1/0 welding cables. Nothing fancy, but good USA-made stuff. A buddy had some leftover from when he re-made the cables on his work rig and sold me 10' of each, red and black, for $20. I've been saving the mesh wrap stuff from an ongoing project at work. I get a 10' length of it in every kit and it's not needed. It's a tube and has to be slipped on over the wire. It doesn't expand enough to fit over some of the plugs on the engine harness or I'd use it on those, too. The adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing and lugs all were from Amazon.

Heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/XHF-Pcs-Waterproof-Insulation-Oil-Proof/dp/B08KXX7R88

Lugs: https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Welding-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00O5BAY24/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=temco+0+1/0+awg+5/16"+hole+tinned+copper&qid=1620263521&sr=8-2&th=1


Thanks Bro and yes I started racing
Ostend TT side.jpg
 
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Monz11

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Thank you. BTW, your races start tomorrow, yeah?

The wires are just 1/0 welding cables. Nothing fancy, but good USA-made stuff. A buddy had some leftover from when he re-made the cables on his work rig and sold me 10' of each, red and black, for $20. I've been saving the mesh wrap stuff from an ongoing project at work. I get a 10' length of it in every kit and it's not needed. It's a tube and has to be slipped on over the wire. It doesn't expand enough to fit over some of the plugs on the engine harness or I'd use it on those, too. The adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing and lugs all were from Amazon.

Heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/XHF-Pcs-Waterproof-Insulation-Oil-Proof/dp/B08KXX7R88

Lugs: https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Welding-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00O5BAY24/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=temco+0+1/0+awg+5/16"+hole+tinned+copper&qid=1620263521&sr=8-2&th=1


what gauge lugs are you using 4 or 6 AWG, with 5/16?
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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what gauge lugs are you using 4 or 6 AWG, with 5/16?

1/0 (cable is 1/0) with the 5/16" hole. I went with 5/16" since most of the factory studs are about that size (probably 8mm, actually). For the larger ones, I just used a step bit to open the hole to 3/8". The battery post-to-stud adapters I got were 3/8" on the positive and 5/15" on the negative.

These are the terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-B...al+post+to+stud+adapter&qid=1620421485&sr=8-1


And CONGRATS on the GOLD!!
 

Monz11

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1/0 (cable is 1/0) with the 5/16" hole. I went with 5/16" since most of the factory studs are about that size (probably 8mm, actually). For the larger ones, I just used a step bit to open the hole to 3/8". The battery post-to-stud adapters I got were 3/8" on the positive and 5/15" on the negative.

These are the terminals: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-B...al+post+to+stud+adapter&qid=1620421485&sr=8-1


And CONGRATS on the GOLD!!

Thanks! I won the Road race today and am wearing the white leaders jersey
white jersey intro (2).jpg
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Took a little road trip yesterday to haul home some goodies.

First was an Atrend ported enclosure for a Kicker L5/L7. These things are around $175 new and that's probably before shipping. A guy ordered it by mistake and just stashed it in his spare closet (return shipping wasn't worth it) and forgot about it. He was moving out of state and looking to offload it ASAP. I got it for $50:

IMG_5945.PNG


I've had a 10" Alpine Type R for years and never taken it out of its original box. I want to build a center console box for it that'll go between the rear captains seats. Considering the labor and cost of materials, $50 for this one as a temporary solution is much more than worth it. It's plenty close enough to work with. I'll notch the four sides of the hole so the sub can be recessed and mounted to a baffle I'll mount on the inside, made of two pieces of 3/4" MDF:

IMG_5959.JPG


I continued on to Lake Charles, two hours west of home, to meet up with some peeps selling a set of Pirelli Scorpion tires taken off a new F-150 in favor of off-road tires. They have just under 3,000 miles on them. Being 275/45-22, they're kind of an oddball size but they're exactly what I wanted for my "new" 22s and planned further drop. Scored 'em for $380:

IMG_5952.JPG


The 'ol Hoe did good, averaging 22MPG cruising at 75 there and back. I say "averaging" because it bounced between 19 and 24 depending on the slight angles in the road, but stayed at 22 for the majority of the time:

IMG_5955.JPG
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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After sleeping in and dragging ass with breakfast and coffee all morning, I finally got outside around 1230 to replace the fuel pump. At 1400, it was idling on the lift as I walked underneath to check for leaks, etc.


My lift table was a little short, so I added some wooden blocks:

IMG_5962.JPG


Only took about 30 minutes to get to this point:

IMG_5964.JPG


Original compared to Delphi. I hope the change in design is an improvement:

IMG_5968.JPG


Comfortable working height. I disconnected and blew out all the lines to ensure there weren't any remaining carbon pellets:

IMG_5971.JPG




I replaced the pump because the Tahoe would sputter under hard acceleration, starting just under a 1/4 tank and would get progressively worse. I thought the bucket wasn't staying filled and it was losing fuel when it sloshed to the back under hard acceleration. After all this, I'm now thinking that my problem wasn't the bucket not holding fuel. When I started, my gauge was reading a hair over 1/4 tank. When I removed the original pump, the fuel level in the bucket was higher than what was in the tank, indicating that it was NOT leaking. Also, the tank was lighter than I expected. 1/4 tank of fuel should be almost 40lbs, but the tank felt much lighter than this as I wrestled it around to drop it. 40lbs isn't much, but when it's overhead and sloshing around, you'd feel it. When I backed out of the shop, running on the new pump, my gauge was reading about 1/16 tank. Now I'm thinking the level sensor was inaccurate and I was actually out of fuel- "running on fumes" as the saying goes. I went for a test drive, giving it a few WOT starts from a dig and from ~20mph so it'd downshift and accelerate at its hardest. Didn't miss a beat.
 
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