Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

Just my luck... The mirror my neighbor gave me years ago, while not loose at the joint like mine, has a stripped gear as well. So now I get to take it apart and replace the gear with either the metal or plastic one. I'm fine with the plastic one since it should last me a long time. But if I can upgrade to the metal gear easily and cheaply, I will. This will involve comparing the motor to one of the few I have in my hobby box to see what all this "internally grounded" noise is about.

Plans are to repair this motor assembly then swap it into mine to make the repair as fast as possible. Then I'll repair my original and have it as a backup. I think it can be used on either side, might require rotating a part 180°. Gonna have to watch the video again.

Fun fact: The mirror my neighbor gave me was made two months and two days after the one on my Tahoe.

...Seriously? This is all?

 

[iamdub]

I disassembled the drive assembly of the spare mirror my neighbor gave me to extract the motor. The negative terminal had continuity to the body, shaft, worm gear, etc. The positive terminal had intermittent and varied continuity to the body when I spun the shaft. I think this might be normal on a DC motor. I bent the tabs as outlined in that video and no longer have continuity on the negative terminal. Positive terminal still acts the same. Either it is normal or I need to do more bending on the positive terminal. I tried to bend the tabs on the back of the motor to remove the end cap to inspect the brushes to see if I could do any further/better isolating. But I might need to make a tool to pry those tabs. Regardless, I ordered the metal gear, if even just as an experiment cuz it was only $10 from Amazon. The motor itself is a variant of an FC-280. I'm trying to find an exploded diagram of it.

 

[adventurenali92]

I think the GMT800 mirrors do the same thing with gears inside. Years back I had a client with a 2004 SS silvy, that he beat the daylights out of. From the first time I detailed it, which was many years into him owning it, to the last time, his side view mirrors were always floppy and loose. Lol. I’d be curious to know if there’s a metal gear to replace the I'm sure, plastic ones in my mirrors as well.

 

[iamdub]

I think the GMT800 mirrors do the same thing with gears inside. Years back I had a client with a 2004 SS silvy, that he beat the daylights out of. From the first time I detailed it, which was many years into him owning it, to the last time, his side view mirrors were always floppy and loose. Lol. I’d be curious to know if there’s a metal gear to replace the I'm sure, plastic ones in my mirrors as well.

I'd bet that there are. The one I got was applicable to a range of GM vehicles, but I didn't see if it covered older models.

 

[iamdub]

I disassembled the drive assembly of the spare mirror my neighbor gave me to extract the motor. The negative terminal had continuity to the body, shaft, worm gear, etc. The positive terminal had intermittent and varied continuity to the body when I spun the shaft. I think this might be normal on a DC motor. I bent the tabs as outlined in that video and no longer have continuity on the negative terminal. Positive terminal still acts the same. Either it is normal or I need to do more bending on the positive terminal. I tried to bend the tabs on the back of the motor to remove the end cap to inspect the brushes to see if I could do any further/better isolating. But I might need to make a tool to pry those tabs. Regardless, I ordered the metal gear, if even just as an experiment cuz it was only $10 from Amazon. The motor itself is a variant of an FC-280. I'm trying to find an exploded diagram of it.

Correction: The positive terminal does NOT have continuity to the body. Only intermittently to negative when I spin the motor, which is normal.

Also, the metal gear from Amazon seems to be a great match and fit. I'll grease and assemble this drive assembly and test it on the Tahoe before replacing my broken one with it.

 

[89Suburban]

Correction: The positive terminal does NOT have continuity to the body. Only intermittently to negative when I spin the motor, which is normal.

Also, the metal gear from Amazon seems to be a great match and fit. I'll grease and assemble this drive assembly and test it on the Tahoe before replacing my broken one with it.

I love it when you are chill and laid back and in the tinkering mood!!

 

[iamdub]

I love it when you are chill and laid back and in the tinkering mood!!

Things have been poppin off left and right lately. Just trying to maintain my zen with small and easily accomplished but rewarding tasks.

 

[iamdub]

Made some LED puddle lights.

Got these COB panels off ebay for $6. They're attached to an aluminum plate, which I shaved a little with a flap disc on a grinder so they'd fit the housings:





Spare puddle light housing I used for mock-up. The originals were thoroughly cleaned before I put the LEDs in 'em:




194 incandescent:




COB LED panel:

 

[iamdub]

The Kicker amp I bought in Florida is WAY too much power for that Alpine 10". Like, more than three times the RMS. Tahoe Twin gave me his old sealed dual 12 box he had in his Tahoe so I can finally use those two new Kicker 12s I bought last June. The amp is still almost twice the power these need, even in a sealed box. But that makes it about 2/3 less of a waste, right?






This is temporary until I build the box I want, which will be angled to fit up against the seats, ported and downfire. I just need to look into some of the sciences of it, as I'm considering having the port fire downward as well, with a sloped floor to direct everything outward, like a horn.

 

[tomloans]

The Kicker amp I bought in Florida is WAY too much power for that Alpine 10". Like, more than three times the RMS. Tahoe Twin gave me his old sealed dual 12 box he had in his Tahoe so I can finally use those two new Kicker 12s I bought last June. The amp is still almost twice the power these need, even in a sealed box. But that makes it about 2/3 less of a waste, right?






This is temporary until I build the box I want, which will be angled to fit up against the seats, ported and downfire. I just need to look into some of the sciences of it, as I'm considering having the port fire downward as well, with a sloped floor to direct everything outward, like a horn.

Looking Good IAMDUB! Hope all is well. The truck is running like new and strong since you and others here helped me get those new heads on. I have put roughly 20k miles and all good!