Gruven heater core T-connectors

[jz57]

All those trucks with front and rear heaters will have 2 plastic OEM "T" connects, the one is White (heater inlet), and the other one is Black (heater outlet).

Totally, there are 5 plastic heater hose connects in the heating system.

2 mentioned in above; there is a plastic "Y" connect (near passenger side exhaust manifold) between water pump and heater inlet; there are two 90 degree elbow plastic at rear passenger side toward rear heater core.

So, the manufacturer should add Aluminum "Y" connect in the product list, since "Y" connect lives in hot environment.

Does this effect the gmt800's also?

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon XL Denali
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[gooffeyguy]

A bit off topic, but how are the factory quick disconnect T-fittings removed from the heater core?

MY '01 with factory fittings isn't putting out heat like it should in the front. Just replaced blend door actuator and that works fine now, but the heat isn't hot like it should be, or like the heat coming from the rear vents. I'm guess front core has air bubble or plugged and wanted to disconnect the lines and try flushing is out or something.

 

[kbuskill]

Ttt

 

[Ilikemtb999]

This is getting frustrating at this point. HOW DO PEOPLE NOT WANT THESE

 

[08HoeCD]

This is getting frustrating at this point. HOW DO PEOPLE NOT WANT THESE

Yeah, a lot of people would sooner spend $350 on a CAI that doesn't do squat rather than spend less than half that to fix the heater core connections once and for all.

 

[jz57]

Get a new Quick Connect "T" fitting (DORMAN 800414) and a hose fitting (DORMAN 800916 or GATES 28500) first before doing anything, take a look those fittings closely, how they are connected or disconnected.

Remember, NO special tool required, need following 3 actions to remove Quick Connect (QC):

1) Push QC toward firewall
2) Squeeze White tabs with Thumb and index finger
3) Pull the QC

Action-3 has some trickies, the white tabs could be stuck on the heater core inlet/outlet pipe barb, it will be very difficult to performan Squeeze & pull by one hand. So you may need a 2nd hand or a helper to performan Action-3.

It may help removing the fittings by spraying some WD-40 between White tab and heater core inlet/outlet pipe.

A bit off topic, but how are the factory quick disconnect T-fittings removed from the heater core?

 

[08HoeCD]

Get a new Quick Connect "T" fitting (DORMAN 800414) and a hose fitting (DORMAN 800916 or GATES 28500) first before doing anything, take a look those fittings closely, how they are connected or disconnected.

Remember, NO special tool required, need following 3 actions to remove Quick Connect (QC):

1) Push QC toward firewall
2) Squeeze White tabs with Thumb and index finger
3) Pull the QC

Action-3 has some trickies, the white tabs could be stuck on the heater core inlet/outlet pipe barb, it will be very difficult to performan Squeeze & pull by one hand. So you may need a 2nd hand or a helper to performan Action-3.

It may help removing the fittings by spraying some WD-40 between White tab and heater core inlet/outlet pipe.

Great step-by-step instructions.
Only thing is, in my experience the Dorman connectors fail more quickly than the OEM.

 

[jz57]

GM OEM one is also one of the good choices.

The reality is that OEM T-Quick Connect lasts relatively long (based on mileage or year) , it is almost same as spark plug replacing timing, like other member mentioned before, that component should fall in preventive maintenance category. We may do a T-Connect survey in this club, at what mileage and year the OEM one started leaking or breaking.

Also, there are 3 T-connects in the engine bay, all work in hot environment, why those 2 T-connects linking to heater core need Aluminum one replacement, but not the T-Connect (near passenger-side exhaust manifold) linking heater core hose and overflow bottler hose ?

The reason Members raised the question about T-Connect is that they had difficulty to remove those 2 heater core T-connect, not the quality of T-Connect.

If those backyard mechanics know the tricky how to remove T-connect, it only take them 10 seconds. Please see the following pictures, 2 people’s job, one squeezes the white tabs, and the other one pulls the string.

I think this pre-sale pitch is missing some thing. As GM truck owners, we should consider replace those 3 T-connects every 5 years with GM OEM ones, instead of spending $70 X 3 = $210 at one time.

Suggestion:

If the Aluminum T-Connect can be made by casting Aluminum instead of making it from Aluminum tubing, barbing and welding, then the price could be drop dramatically, maybe $10 each.

Great step-by-step instructions.
Only thing is, in my experience the Dorman connectors fail more quickly than the OEM.

 

[08HoeCD]

I'm not interested in making a sales pitch. All I know is that I have personal experience with failures with both the OEM and the Dorman connectors, and I would not opt to continue with either if a better solution such as that proposed by Gruven actually becomes available. If it doesn't make it to production, then so be it and I'll carry on. Such is life.

 

[thompsoj22]

This is getting frustrating at this point. HOW DO PEOPLE NOT WANT THESE

Basically for myself im an "OEM purist" keeping a machine maintained the way the factory/dealer prescribes should produce the best results? In regard to the gruven project, Top of the line metals ultra precise hand welded beautiful end product but requires hoses and clamps to "adapt" to OEM design? Also i lack the experience of sitting along the side of the 405 freeway with my wife and daughter in the car and steam coming out from under the hood only to discover it is the Plastic gm heater "Ts" that have failed. Or even worse that it is the heater "T" that i had replaced 6 months prior that has failed again! i have compared the dorman/oem "Ts" and the OEM is hands down the winner, i absolutely would not advise anyone to use that dorman china knockoff crap. if gruven wants my business, at least start a small production run and get them out here for review to those that have paid so they can be evaluated for fit,install,function and overall value/piece of mind.