help choosing a radiator

[iamdub]

Lil’ help. Quick question on preventatively /proactively replacing radiator:

Trusted local shop has my 2001 Yukon 5.3L in for installing front shocks (Bilstein 4600) and noticed coolant leak at water pump. Checked my records …. It’s still the original OEM water pump after 22 years and 180,000 miles so for sure I approved the repair along w thermostat and top/bottom hoses.

Question - should I also replace the radiator?

I trust the Genuine GM design and don’t normally fix stuff that ain’t broke, but this would essentially zero-time my cooling system and that seems like good idea to me. It adds about $350 to the cost of the repair. I think am answering it own question, but what do you guys/gals think?

I'd say, at that mileage and being in AZ, you're close enough to the rad's end-of-life, if not past it and on borrowed time. IMO, it's not worth letting it ride until it does fail cuz then you'll be forced to fix it while in a bind. Have everything new with all new and clean coolant. One-and-done it. Maintenance pays, breakdowns cost.

GM or Denso replacement only, IMO. $350 seems to be fair considering a GM rad is likely over $200.

 

[Scott in AZ]

I'd say, at that mileage and being in AZ, you're close enough to the rad's end-of-life, if not past it and on borrowed time. IMO, it's not worth letting it ride until it does fail cuz then you'll be forced to fix it while in a bind. Have everything new with all new and clean coolant. One-and-done it. Maintenance pays, breakdowns cost.

GM or Denso replacement only, IMO. $350 seems to be fair considering a GM rad is likely over $200.

This, and you remind me to make sure they use pre-mix radiator fluid (with deionized water) or else I’ll bring them a few gallons of distilled water to 50/50 mix with.

Anyone know cooling system fluid capacity approx?

 

[iamdub]

This, and you remind me to make sure they use pre-mix radiator fluid (with deionized water) or else I’ll bring them a few gallons of distilled water to 50/50 mix with.

Anyone know cooling system fluid capacity approx?

I always get the coolant concentrate and gallons of distilled from Walmart that are around $1. It's way cheaper. With the pre-mix, you're paying the same price for half the coolant and twice the cost of distilled water.

Mine's an '08 and my notes show approximately 17 quarts. There will always be some coolant in there. I always get two gallons of concentrate and two gallons of the water- makes 16 quarts of coolant at 50/50 mix. There will be plenty left over. I mix it 50/50 and have my own pre-mix ready for topping off of my Tahoe or other vehicles.

 

[Geotrash]

I'd say, at that mileage and being in AZ, you're close enough to the rad's end-of-life, if not past it and on borrowed time. IMO, it's not worth letting it ride until it does fail cuz then you'll be forced to fix it while in a bind. Have everything new with all new and clean coolant. One-and-done it. Maintenance pays, breakdowns cost.

GM or Denso replacement only, IMO. $350 seems to be fair considering a GM rad is likely over $200.

+100,000

 

[Scott in AZ]

Update - Answering my own question - YES.

I’ll check the owner’s manual, but I believe 2001 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4WD requires Orange Dexcool coolant. Does anyone know the answer to this? (yes)

But wow, there is quite the history on orange Dex Cool coolant, including a class action lawsuit that was settled w a payout. I got over 170,000 miles and 22 years w my original radiator and water pump so am sticking with the Dexcool and Genuine GM water pump and radiator (plastic end caps and all). I guess the key is to ensure Dexcool never gets mixed w Propylene Glycol based coolant.

 

[iamdub]

Update - Answering my own question - YES.

I’ll check the owner’s manual, but I believe 2001 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4WD requires Orange Dexcool coolant. Does anyone know the answer to this? (yes)

But wow, there is quite the history on orange Dex Cool coolant, including a class action lawsuit that was settled w a payout. I got over 170,000 miles and 22 years w my original radiator and water pump so am sticking with the Dexcool and Genuine GM water pump and radiator (plastic end caps and all). I guess the key is to ensure Dexcool never gets mixed w Propylene Glycol based coolant.

That's really old news. The problem was mostly people running it low and the air in the system turned it into a corrosive mud. They've long since changed the formula. Also, with the LS having a closed cooling system and much better seal design throughout, there's very little chance of a problem. Any competent shop would flush the system as needed while doing all this work. Besides, you're replacing the critical components most affected. All that's left is to ensure the block is clean and flush the heater core, if necessary.

I've always used the Prestone orange stuff that's compatible with Dex-Cool as well as being mixed with the "green stuff", but have never had any reason to mix it.

 

[j91z28d1]

I believe that class action covered my old 96.

Lotta issues, I think what they used in the truck just wasn't up to it. the old paper intake gaskets they used since the first small block chevy leaked. I changed mine when they started leaking after I got it, and the coolent or whatever ate them all up. they also had a metal heater core fitting that completely disintegrated. I touched mine with a wrench and it fell apart. thought it was going to need drilled and tapped, but it didn't. you could just tap the inner threads with a screw driver and they broke up. replaced with brass and it's still good to this day. but again I also changed to the green stuff during that fix as well.

all the new stuff has used dexcool for years and no issues. they seem to have gotta the materials for the cooling system right on these ls engines.

my mom had a Lumina back then too, the whole cooling system ate itself alive.