How the hell do I remove those last bolt?!?

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Gzes

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Pb blast it and heat it up for a day or 2. Should get ufrozen then with a breaker bar.
 
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KingJmart

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So I successfully replaced both hub assemblies and ended up having to replace a new A arm bc the ball joint in the 2008 is connected to it. But after installing everything the sound is gone!!!!! Sound barely comes back here n there but it's very very subtle.
 

07Burb

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Don't forget to get an alignment now
 

OR VietVet

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So I successfully replaced both hub assemblies and ended up having to replace a new A arm bc the ball joint in the 2008 is connected to it. But after installing everything the sound is gone!!!!! Sound barely comes back here n there but it's very very subtle.





With the sound still there that means that likely it is related to the brakes because you had to take those apart to get to the hubs. Make sure that the pads are in good shape, not just thick, rotors not grooved or hot spotted and make sure all pad connecting points are clean and lubed with high temp lube for pads to move freely. Make sure the rotor mount surface is free of rust where rides against the hub
 

07Burb

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Despite his love of the Raiders raiderron knows his stuff :)
 

OR VietVet

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At the very least, my Raiders are not winless, finally! Thank you 07Burb for the compliment.

---------- Post added at 07:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 AM ----------

Now if I could just afford the Tahoe I want to get it would be a great holidays. I am just glad the guy got it back together and hope it is safe.
 
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KingJmart

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I might need to have front two rotors cross cut and haven't checked the pads on them yet. Both have 2 minor groves in them so going to get to that soon

---------- Post added at 09:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:33 AM ----------

And I made all of the correct markings before removing the A arm and ball joint and lined up my markings and alignment is great!
 

OR VietVet

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The marks you made are assuming that the alignment was correct in the first place. If had been done recently and you feel the alignment is ok, well then that is up to you. Be aware that an alignment can "feel" fine but still wear the tires.

You may have had some loose hub bearings allowing the rotor to wobble slightly against the pads causing the noise and that is why when you replaced the hubs the noise diminished greatly but you still see the wear pattern on the pads and rotors. If you can afford it get yourself new rotors of good quality and new quality pads. If you machine rotors they get thinner and if have hot spots they will come back quickly to the surface of the old rotor. Friction is what slows you down, friction builds lots of heat, heat transfers in to the rotors and pads and if the rotor is machined thinner it will not dissipate the heat easily and they will warp and then you have the pulsation effect when braking, like from highway speed on an off ramp.

You have spent a lot of time in there and want to be done with it. Again, make sure you clean all rust away and lube all contact points with high temp lube.
 
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KingJmart

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What brand of rotors and brake pads would u recommend? I've looked at some drilled and slotted ones but heard from some reviews they produce noise. Any idea if that's true. Probably going to get new rotors and brake pads
 

07Burb

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I got R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors from a vendor on the forum (Freedom Motorsports) and they're great! No noise
 

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