how to replace front lower ball joints

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t.stimpson

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So I'm planning on replacing my lower ball joints and struts this weekend and surprisingly cant find much info on how to do it. I also have the press kit and strut clamp. What I'm not sure of is whether I need to remove the hub assembly to do it. Anyone know?
 

08grey

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It's not easy. I would investigate any local machine shops how much they charge and their hours in case you hit a brick wall and end up taking the control arm out. Also get some controll arm bolts cause they break. Get a early start in case shit. Get a good chair. Yes you have to pull the spindle.
 
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t.stimpson

t.stimpson

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well the ball joints went pretty easy I must say. The hubs came out very easy which never happens. Then a couple of good wacks on the control arms and the spindle dropped out, again very easy. I guess I can see how they might be a PITA but mine went pretty smoothly. I didnt even use the press to get the old ones out. I just tapped the four tabs inward and then pounded it out with a small sledge. I did use the press to put the new ones in. I guess i just got lucky.
 

Wake

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well the ball joints went pretty easy I must say. The hubs came out very easy which never happens. Then a couple of good wacks on the control arms and the spindle dropped out, again very easy. I guess I can see how they might be a PITA but mine went pretty smoothly. I didnt even use the press to get the old ones out. I just tapped the four tabs inward and then pounded it out with a small sledge. I did use the press to put the new ones in. I guess i just got lucky.

You did get lucky. I just finished mine tonight, I started on Saturday.

The biggest problems I ran into were pressing the old ball joints out of the aluminum control arms that the Escalade has. I think the galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and steel of the ball joint body made the job the hardest I've ever experienced. I've replaced ball joints on several vehicles over the years and never had the trouble I had this weekend. The design of the lower control arm leaves no outside area for the ball joint press to grab ahold of with the press cup, it just wants to tilt and slip off. I ended up using a chisel from the side to break the ball joint lip away from the control arm before I could get enough pressure on the ball joint tool to press them out.

I also replaced the upper control arms to take care of the upper ball joint and control arm bushings. This was the other big problem.

I live in an area where salt is used on the roads in the winter. On each side I broke one of the two heavy bolts that mount the control arm to the frame with barely any twisting of the nut. I also needed to use a pickle fork to remove the bolts from both sides of the truck, they were so badly rusted/corroded.

Next time I won't even spend the time replacing the ball joints by themselves. I'll just replace the entire control arm. I'll also order the bolt kits for the upper control arms in case I break them again.
 

08grey

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I think being in a road salted area is what's makes the job the hardest.
 
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t.stimpson

t.stimpson

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well I live in Michigan so we get plenty of salt. Also my control arms are steel so maybe thats why it was easier. I know what your saying about the corrosion you can get from aluminum/steel combo. Its nasty.
 

Wake

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well I live in Michigan so we get plenty of salt. Also my control arms are steel so maybe thats why it was easier. I know what your saying about the corrosion you can get from aluminum/steel combo. Its nasty.

Ah, so if you're no stranger to salt then if you ever decide to do the upper control arm replacement then order a set of the cam bolts, or two to be safe. You wouldn't believe how badly rusted/corroded the bolts were in the upper arm bushings. I think I mentioned in my earlier post that I had to use a pickle fork just to get the bolts out on both sides, both the ones I broke and the ones that didn't break were rusted solid in the bushing sleeves.

I wouldn't mess with the ball joint only replacement in the upper control arms. From my experience with two of these SUVs now (05 and 07), the LCA bushings still look great at 100K miles while the UCA bushings will also need to be replaced sooner. The UCAs can be had for about $70/ea for the GM Pro version from Amazon. The cam bolts though are pretty expensive at around $30 per set/side.

---------- Post added at 02:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:05 PM ----------

I think being in a road salted area is what's makes the job the hardest.

It definitely does. I never hated working under a vehicle until I moved to the east coast and started buying vehicles here. I keep thinking that I'll go west and bring a vehicle back next time.

So far I've had to cut off shock/strut posts along with various suspension linkages and bolts on several vehicles. I never had this much trouble with my AZ and CA vehicles.
 
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t.stimpson

t.stimpson

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yeah I probably should have replaced the upper control arm/ball joint since I did everything else but can only spend so much money in one day. Also it looks pretty easy to go back and do the control arm all by itself with not that much work. IF I do do it I will definitely get the bolts, they already look pretty bad.
 

Ponchonutty

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I'm wondering if I will need to do this soon since my rig has 115k on the lock. Right now just trying to save $$ to replace the Autoride front struts
 

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