Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

[iamdub]

I am all but positive that the cheap Chicom oil cooler is what is leaching lead into the system. It is the only thing that makes sense to me for the lead readings to peak the way it did and then decline. And the copper numbers are good.

I agree with the oil cooler leaching lead. It's harmless, right?

I have a K&N filter in there currently and it is probably over due for a cleaning. I will make sure and clean it when the new radiator goes in.

Wouldn't a dirty filter actually filter the air better? I have an AEM DryFlow. As far as I know, AEM is owned by K&N or vice versa and the DryFlow filters are or were just a non-oiled variant of K&N's original design. So, we may have the same filter. You have a part number or pic of it handy? My intake tube has been "white glove test" spotless with it, but now you've got me wondering. I have an oil change coming up in about 1,000 miles. If I can remember, I'll send a sample for analysis.

 

[kbuskill]

It's just the stock air box replacement filter.

K&N #33-2129

 

[kbuskill]

Cold Case arrived today...







I finally will have the petcock that GM didn't install like they should have.


I think Benjamin approves... lol

I just posted that last pic to reference the thickness of the core.

I guess I will be swapping from Dex-cool (orange) coolant over to the old school Green coolant per Cold Case's recommendation.

So gonna have to flush the cooling system thoroughly.

Hopefully there are no issues or surprises with the install. I've read that the upper mounts may have to be trimmed slightly to clear the core support and the cooling fans shroud may have to be trimmed slightly as well.

I also looked at the top port on the passenger side that goes to the surge tank on my stock radiator and it appears to be the same size as the new one... unless the restrictor is further up inside the radiator.

 

[iamdub]

It's just the stock air box replacement filter.

K&N #33-2129
View attachment 266476

Ok, so the AEM is different.

Mine, AEM #28-20129:

 

[kbuskill]

Ok, so the AEM is different.

Mine, AEM #28-20129:

Not much difference... looks like the K&N has more pleats maybe?

 

[iamdub]

Not much difference... looks like the K&N has more pleats maybe?

A lot more pleats. I still can't find a straight answer as to who owns who, but my main question was if the AEM and K&N were identical and just different labels. Of course, they may be now.

Since you're an analytical type as well, wipe out the inside of your intake tube with a paper towel when you service your filter.

Also, speaking of analysis, are you taking note of any current temperature characteristics with your stock rad to compare with the new rad?

 

[Just Fishing]

Nice looking rad, i like the drain!

 

[kbuskill]

A lot more pleats. I still can't find a straight answer as to who owns who, but my main question was if the AEM and K&N were identical and just different labels. Of course, they may be now.

Since you're an analytical type as well, wipe out the inside of your intake tube with a paper towel when you service your filter.

Also, speaking of analysis, are you taking note of any current temperature characteristics with your stock rad to compare with the new rad?

My normal operating temperature on the gauge, as we all know, is right at the half way mark 210°... but the OBD2 data shows it consistently at 192°- 194°.

I don't expect to see any real difference at operating temperature since I am not changing the thermostat's temperature.

I would expect it to take longer to get up to operating temperature though.

I will probably never notice a difference because I ALWAYS remote start the truck twice to get it up to operating temperature before driving it. Winter, Summer, Spring, Fall.... I don't care, I am a big proponent of letting vehicles warm up before driving.

I will try to remember to look at the temperature on the OBD2 while driving though and see if I notice anything different.

 

[Rocket Man]

There’s a lot of research that says warming up today’s engines before driving is worse for the engine than just starting up and driving. The engine warms up faster by driving and the faster it warms up the better since it runs rich until it does. Running rich has a tendency to decrease the lubrication in the cylinders. I’m curious why you’re a proponent? I know that used to be the thing to do on carbureted engines but I learned a long time ago it’s not good for computer controlled fi engines. There’s plenty of information out there to back this up. But then you have great data from Blackstone that shows your engine is wearing fine so idk.

 

[kbuskill]

There’s a lot of research that says warming up today’s engines before driving is worse for the engine than just starting up and driving. The engine warms up faster by driving and the faster it warms up the better since it runs rich until it does. Running rich has a tendency to decrease the lubrication in the cylinders. I’m curious why you’re a proponent? I know that used to be the thing to do on carbureted engines but I learned a long time ago it’s not good for computer controlled fi engines. There’s plenty of information out there to back this up.

I haven't researched it in a long time so I can't remember the stats off the top of my head but I remember reading that the majority of wear occurs at start up and jumping in and driving a cold engine/transmission just exacerbates the problem. The jist of it was when the engine is cold the oil hasn't warmed and circulated into everything properly yet, the differing metals haven't expanded due to heat yet, etc.

Maybe I'm wrong but I have been in the habit of doing it for a long time.

Drives me up a wall to see someone come out and hop in their vehicle and turn the key and be backing out of their driveway before the starter has even stopped spinning... lol