I made it thru all 55 pages lol.
after all that, I do wonder if any of these trucks have actual oil temp sensors and what they get up to.
when you guys are towing up the long grades are you having to be wot in lower gears to keep the speed up for mins at a time? I would love to see the oil Temps. I bet they are working hard.
for the fans, I don't think mine is the same, do you have pwm fans? I saw someone posts about hptuners showing precent for fan to temp. that's usually for pwm fans? if it's just a relay for hi and low, if you can run a switch to trigger the hi speed relay. (used to be done a lot for drag racing to cool down as fast as possible before a pass) I'd love to see if the guys hitting 230 deg coolent Temps tried that and turn them in at 210 and see what happens, especially with the tranny cooler still in front of the radiator. got me wondering if 230 is the temp that over rides the mph setting.
it's been years, but back in the days of obd1 diy tunings that's how it worked, fan request tuned off at a speed, but was over ridden by ac pressure switch or high coolent temp with a 2nd temp switch in the back of the head over riding everything and turning both fans on, at 235 deg if i remember right. mostly all analog back then with less ecm control then today, but we had was well defined tuning, that mph could be changed to 255 so they never turned off and ran straight off temp. shame hptuners doesn't want to spend the time to define the details.
oh and a DC amp clamp would tell a lot on 500 vs 700 motor and even what fan blade loaded the motor harder. when I did my conversion on my other car, it came in super handy when I was working with the fans and tuning % request. how many watts you're pulling is a good indicator of how much air you're moving, even more so than trying to measure cfm. at least when comparing brushed to brushed. brushed to brushless wouldn't be as good, giving brushless should be more efficient per amp. but the 500 to 700 are very close in design, I think you'd see a difference. could test fan blade numbers and maybe ever see if the big tranny cooler in front of the radiator was blocking air bad enough to see a drop in current needed to spin its designed rpm.
oh and all the newer shroud have trap doors in them to bypass air at higher speeds.. these older ones don't. super easy to add if you have the fan out and feel like it using these.
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after all that, I do wonder if any of these trucks have actual oil temp sensors and what they get up to.
when you guys are towing up the long grades are you having to be wot in lower gears to keep the speed up for mins at a time? I would love to see the oil Temps. I bet they are working hard.
for the fans, I don't think mine is the same, do you have pwm fans? I saw someone posts about hptuners showing precent for fan to temp. that's usually for pwm fans? if it's just a relay for hi and low, if you can run a switch to trigger the hi speed relay. (used to be done a lot for drag racing to cool down as fast as possible before a pass) I'd love to see if the guys hitting 230 deg coolent Temps tried that and turn them in at 210 and see what happens, especially with the tranny cooler still in front of the radiator. got me wondering if 230 is the temp that over rides the mph setting.
it's been years, but back in the days of obd1 diy tunings that's how it worked, fan request tuned off at a speed, but was over ridden by ac pressure switch or high coolent temp with a 2nd temp switch in the back of the head over riding everything and turning both fans on, at 235 deg if i remember right. mostly all analog back then with less ecm control then today, but we had was well defined tuning, that mph could be changed to 255 so they never turned off and ran straight off temp. shame hptuners doesn't want to spend the time to define the details.
oh and a DC amp clamp would tell a lot on 500 vs 700 motor and even what fan blade loaded the motor harder. when I did my conversion on my other car, it came in super handy when I was working with the fans and tuning % request. how many watts you're pulling is a good indicator of how much air you're moving, even more so than trying to measure cfm. at least when comparing brushed to brushed. brushed to brushless wouldn't be as good, giving brushless should be more efficient per amp. but the 500 to 700 are very close in design, I think you'd see a difference. could test fan blade numbers and maybe ever see if the big tranny cooler in front of the radiator was blocking air bad enough to see a drop in current needed to spin its designed rpm.
oh and all the newer shroud have trap doors in them to bypass air at higher speeds.. these older ones don't. super easy to add if you have the fan out and feel like it using these.
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