Yup. Go from the cross bar where it rests on the ears in the lower control arm to the base that the bottom of the coil spring sits on. It's just like how those adjustable coilovers work- the ones with the rings that you turn with a spanner wrench. You're adjusting the height of the perch in relation to the lower arm.
Actually, a couple of companies make a spring relocator. It's basically the same as the stock perch, which is a sleeve slid over the shock part of the strut with a ledge that the spring rests on, but with that ledge a little lower.
Here's McGaughy's relocators. They yield a 2" drop, but have rings to raise the perch height back up to net a 1.5" or 1" drop if 2" is too much.
Quick, cheap and easy way to lower it about 2". Rough Country sells or used to sell a "drop kit" exactly for this. It was bolts and nuts of a particular grade (12.x? 14.x?) and spacers. With the strut bolted directly to the bottom side, it's less than a 2" drop. The spacers make it a full 2".
@89Suburban and I think
@kbuskill have or had theirs lowered by this. Some people feel sketched out by this method but I've never heard of any failures. I doubt Rough Country would risk their business on a simple $40 drop kit. I've read discussions of hardware tensile strength, the theoretical maximum loads the front of a GMT900 SUV could put on those points, etc. Apparently, Grade 8 is "sufficient" and some have ran or are running Grade 8 hardware for this drop. The extra strength, yet not brittle hardware spec'ed and supplied by RC is probably over- over-kill as a CYA. Proper torque specs are a factor, too. I have this hardware kit on standby as a drop option for when I get back into messing with mine.
