Lifted Caddy throws me around over bumps, uneven roads,

[Mordechai]

You mean the other end of the panhard is hooked into the stock mount on the frame? I'm picturing the panhard being at a considerable angle.

As for the end links, you want the two rearward pointing legs of the sway bar to be parallel with the ground. So, however long the links need to be to achieve this is what they should be. However, if you have some links that are beefier, that one inch isn't gonna make any perceivable difference and you'd get more out of reducing the flex than anything.

The adjustable panhard just bolts in. With the stock one removed, the body should self-center over the axle (vehicle resting on the ground at ride height). Adjust the length of the bar so that you can insert the bolts and install it. Simple as that.

We can't guarantee any of these will fix your problem. We're just listing off the things we see that can contribute to instability. Address these things and you should at least see some decent improvement.

Yes its in the stock location on the other side.

So I replaced the end links with the ones that were a little shorter, I don't think its much beefier but its straight instead of being curved for some reason and seem to fit a lot tighter, I'll include a pic of them side by side. Took a little drive and the ride is MUCH improved especially in the corners. Im still getting snapped right and left a bit but hopefully the new panhard bar will help some with that.

 

[Mordechai]

Thinking about this some more, when was the last time the inner and outer tie rods were checked and torqued to specs? They can cause wheel shaking and turning if not tight or within spec.

They're both brand new and just put on 2 weeks ago.

 

[Mordechai]

Do you have any pictures of where the rear track bar mounts to the axle? the bracket that re-locates that mount needs to be 1000% solid. If it can move, it will make the truck very unstable.

I'm planning on having mine welded into place soon as the bolts keep getting loose. I've got a 5" RC (it was originally a 7.5" but i lowered it to 5")

Yeah I also used to have an RC 7.5 and went to 5 inch struts up front which is all you need to turn it into a 5 inch lift because its just a maxxed out 5 inch kit. Horrible quality on it too. The Fabtech mounts for the track bar are a lot beefier and a lot more solid and actually mounts in two places. Not sure how well you can see it here, I circled the trackbar so you can see what's what. Ill take a better pic if you want.

 

[RED TAHOE LS]

Call me old and senile if you must, but i learned the hard way, leave a vehicle alone.
JMHO

 

[swathdiver]

They're both brand new and just put on 2 weeks ago.

Put a torque wrench on them and make sure all connections were torqued to spec, saw a youtube video on this recently; even that inner one should be checked.

Inner Tie Rod = 150 ft lbs with Loctite.
Outer Tie Rod to Knuckle = 44 ft lbs.
Jam Nut = 55 ft lbs.

 

[swathdiver]

The front diff mounts are definitely in need of replacement but I'm not sure how they'd cause this issue. Thanks for the links ill check them out!

I remembered the other fellas screen name, @01Konvict

2011 Yukon Denali 7" FTS lift... custom build for Denali

So everybody is shy about lifting a Denali but I wasn't scared of it! I had a 2001 Yukon with 2" level and 33s and wanted the plush of a Denali plus the extra HP! So I located a rare Ice Blue Metallic 2011 Denali with 42k miles in Texas. I bought it online sight unseen and shipped it to VA...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[BG1988]

Hi everyone, I'm trying to figure out this extremely annoying problem. I'm lifted on a 6 inch Fabtech lift but used to be on a 7.5 inch RC lift and I've tried factory struts, RC upgraded struts, and Bilstein 5100 struts with no difference in this feeling. I've had Bilstein 5100s in the rear the entire time its been lifted since a year ago but Bilstein is supposed to be good so I've never thought that to be a problem. Tried replacing all the sway bar bushings and end links as well put spherical end links up front which helped a bit but not enough, also tried different rear springs and wheel and tire setups to no avail. Was thinking of going to a solid rear sway bar maybe? Not sure.

I have no idea how to describe this feeling, going over certain bumps (not all) and uneven roads will make the truck go from side to side HARD throwing me around a decent amount. Especially on the freeway it feels a bit unstable especially in bends. It often makes me feel sick due to having to drive lots of freeway, as well as makes my body hurt from trying to keep my body straight and not be thrown around by my truck. Its been like this since I lifted it. Is this just normal lifted behavior or do I have an issue? All of my control arm & cv angles are good. Please help

Thank you

want to swap? mine handles like a car.... hair pin turns and have yet to flip it over

 

[Mordechai]

Call me old and senile if you must, but i learned the hard way, leave a vehicle alone.
JMHO

I learnt the hard way too. I'm only 23 and I'm starting to see where folks who think like you are coming from lol. This is definitely the last daily driver i modify this much.

 

[Mordechai]

Put a torque wrench on them and make sure all connections were torqued to spec, saw a youtube video on this recently; even that inner one should be checked.

Inner Tie Rod = 150 ft lbs with Loctite.
Outer Tie Rod to Knuckle = 44 ft lbs.
Jam Nut = 55 ft lbs.

Will double check thank you. And that looks like a great write up. I have the same lift in the rear as that fella.

 

[Mordechai]

want to swap? mine handles like a car.... hair pin turns and have yet to flip it over

I don't mind truck handling but this isn't normal truck handling.