Looking for comments from LTZ/autoride owners with lift/leveling kits

[01Konvict]

You can lift the rear and anything over stock height will mess up the ride height rods. When lifting it will cause the system to not activate to keep level under load. Any height over normal range will give "service suspension" message on dash. You have to get ride height rod extensions to correct the issue. I got 7" lift on my Denali with auto ride so ask me how I know to do it right

 

[dr58dmtp]

Ok, thanks for the replies! So if I leave auto-ride/auto-level in the rear without a spacer it will still work. If I use a spacer, get an extension for the system to work, right?

As far as the magnaride and ride height question, I have not done anything at all yet..Magnaride? I do not think I have that on this year model.

As far as the Ranchos versus Bilstein. I am a bigger fan of Bilstien, but have noticed I get more life out of the Ranchos up front. I think its the environment I drive in. I do run them on my current truck but the past Ranchos held up longer...I will be running the Bilisteins on the rear, just havent decided if the Arrnott/Bilstein autolevel ones or "true" 5100's with the auto-level delete. If I remove the rear auto-level and compressor, do I need different rear springs?

NOTE: When I say enviroment, I am meaning the "Haul" Dalton Highway in Northern AK. I run up that a way quite frequently. Its hard to describe unless you have done it. All lot of the commercial guys that run that road yearround reccomend Skyjacker shocks actually!

 

[01Konvict]

Yup it will work with or without a spacer just need to lengthen rod when adding a spacer.

Check to see if you have an electrical plug on top of the front struts. If so that's magneride. Whatever shocks you want go for them but I prefer 5100 over rancho.

 

[dr58dmtp]

Thanks for again for the speedy reply and advice. I will take a closer look at the top of those fronts.

 

[Drg4me]

So after a lot of debating and searching I'm about to pull the trigger on a leveling kit on my 2013 LTZ. The searching has been around autoride and will it cause issues or not. What I would love to see people post on is how long have you had a leveling kit on your autoride truck and have you had ANY issues with that system? Seen some try it but I can't find where the report back often once they get the set up they want. My goal is 1.5" in front (thinking readylift) and 1" spacer in the rear. Thinking I can play with rear links to get it back down a touch achieving 1/2"-3/4" net rear lift. I want the front 3/4"-1" lower than front to keep some rake which I believe appears level.

So what leveling kit did you put on your tahoe with autoride/autolevel, did you have to modify front or rear links, and most importantly how long have you had it installed and any issues? Thank you for your responses. Pictures welcome.

Yo. I have a 2013 ltz. 2 inch rough county leveling kit in front and a 1 inch coil spacer in rear. Allowed me to run 275-60-20 duratracs. Looks and rides awesome with 0 issues.

 

[fishingwizard]

I have a 2" spacer lift on my 07 burb. I replaced the original suspension front and rear with replacement kits for Arnott using their non-electric front shocks with plugs to disengage the front magneride and their direct rear replacement shocks and air compressor. I also went up 2 sizes in tires to 275/65/R20s. Because of this, my burb sits about 3.5-4" taller than stock. When towing my boat @ 4k lbs, my burb squatted quite a bit, the 4" back down to stock. I just ordered the shock bracket extensions for the rear and the ride height extensions. I talked to Mark @ Full Throttle suspensions and he said this combo will eliminate the sagging on my burb while towing and the system will work properly again.

I should have the parts next week and when I do the install i will take some pictures and post them up.

 

[01Konvict]

Yup the extensions will set the ride height rods at the stock height so the rear performs as designed. Do you have any shock extensions on the rear with those 2" coil spacers?

 

[fishingwizard]

Yup the extensions will set the ride height rods at the stock height so the rear performs as designed. Do you have any shock extensions on the rear with those 2" coil spacers?

No I don't and that is one of my problems. The other was the ride heigh extensions. Combined I should be back to where I want my burb.

 

[01Konvict]

Oh so you only have a front 2" with regular shocks. The arnott module fixed the computer for electronic dampening? No service suspension lights?

The rear should work just like stock since you just replaced them with like stock parts. But your saying the new stuff doesn't load level like factory?

 

[fishingwizard]

Oh so you only have a front 2" with regular shocks. The arnott module fixed the computer for electronic dampening? No service suspension lights?

The rear should work just like stock since you just replaced them with like stock parts. But your saying the new stuff doesn't load level like factory?

Yes, the front shocks are regular passive gas shocks. The module Arnott tricks the computer system that everything is ok. The 2" spacer goes on top of the coil over so the shock is still stock length. The rear shocks are not coil overs so the shocks are extended too much. Because of that, I needed the shock extender @ 2" and the ride height sensor extensions, probably set them @ 1.5-2".

With the 2" lift and going up to 33" tires, my burb sits about 3.5-4" higher than stock but I still have the .5" rake back to front, mainly for level towing. Hind sight I should have just deleted the damn airride but I loved it when towing. The OEM system is just such a pain in the ass when it craps out.