Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

[67RS427]

I hear you. I can see myself going crazy with engine modes, hope not, fingers crossed.

Once you get that bug it doesn't go away... I started with a simple rebuilt blower on my stock 6.2L with 150k miles on it. Ran it for about 6k miles until the oil pressure started dropping from the sloppy main bearings. Trickle affect from there but I couldn't be happier with the result. Either way you will end up rebuilding your 6L80 at some point. Heavy trucks, AWD or 4x4 and lots of power don't do the transmission any favors. Stock 10 bolt rear/axles are more than strong enough if you replace the G80 center section with a TrueTrac. I'm still running my stock transfer case as well with zero issues (163k miles). Front diff I rebuilt with better bearings but original ring and pinion front and rear for me still. I'm not sure how much of a hands on person you are but I encourage you to learn to tune your own car with HP Tuners. I'm learning myself and luckily I have a friend that is a GM Engineer to teach me how the ECU/controllers work but you will be way happier if you learn whats going on with the engine and can make small changes yourself. There is no tune or tuner that can make a one and done tune. You will be back and forth many times to get it how YOU want. I'm still tuning and making changes every day I drive it...

 

[Chrismnj]

Once you get that bug it doesn't go away... I started with a simple rebuilt blower on my stock 6.2L with 150k miles on it. Ran it for about 6k miles until the oil pressure started dropping from the sloppy main bearings. Trickle affect from there but I couldn't be happier with the result. Either way you will end up rebuilding your 6L80 at some point. Heavy trucks, AWD or 4x4 and lots of power don't do the transmission any favors. Stock 10 bolt rear/axles are more than strong enough if you replace the G80 center section with a TrueTrac. I'm still running my stock transfer case as well with zero issues (163k miles). Front diff I rebuilt with better bearings but original ring and pinion front and rear for me still. I'm not sure how much of a hands on person you are but I encourage you to learn to tune your own car with HP Tuners. I'm learning myself and luckily I have a friend that is a GM Engineer to teach me how the ECU/controllers work but you will be way happier if you learn whats going on with the engine and can make small changes yourself. There is no tune or tuner that can make a one and done tune. You will be back and forth many times to get it how YOU want. I'm still tuning and making changes every day I drive it...

I think I am pretty handy, like to do most of the modes myself, but this being said I am new to Tahoe world, wish I could find someone locally that knew about them more, I know stock Tahoe is not ideal truck for off road but at the same token is a good base to make it. Don't have a problem spending money on drivetrain just want to do it right. Main point is reliability, and I do need help to get there, so any advise is greatly appreciated.

 

[Chrismnj]

question for guys who have widened O2 sensor A/F ratio gauge, where did you place your sensor?

 

[67RS427]

question for guys who have widened O2 sensor A/F ratio gauge, where did you place your sensor?

Right where the Y pipe merges together if you only have one. I plan to add another so I can monitor both banks though. If you have cats, you want it before the cat 12" or so after the collector

 

[67RS427]

I think I am pretty handy, like to do most of the modes myself, but this being said I am new to Tahoe world, wish I could find someone locally that knew about them more, I know stock Tahoe is not ideal truck for off road but at the same token is a good base to make it. Don't have a problem spending money on drivetrain just want to do it right. Main point is reliability, and I do need help to get there, so any advise is greatly appreciated.

This is my first Yukon as well. It's just a GMT900 truck underneath so there should be plenty of people around that know how to work on them. I didn't know much about them when I started but now I know my truck front to back. Not a single bolt or chassis ground I haven't touched

 

[Chrismnj]

Right where the Y pipe merges together if you only have one. I plan to add another so I can monitor both banks though. If you have cats, you want it after the cat 12" or so

very tight there

 

[67RS427]

very tight there


View attachment 213600 View attachment 213601

Mine being a 6.2L, I have 3.5" stainless from the Y pipe back. I put mine on the passenger bank knowing I was going to add a second one. Ideally with one, you'd want it before the flex pipe after the Y. Your pipe looks much smaller though, not sure if you have the flex pipe.

 

[Chrismnj]

some times I wish I had the suburban lol

 

[67RS427]

some times I wish I had the suburban lolView attachment 213604

Are you keeping your cats? Plans for the rest of the exhaust? I couldn't be happier with my Kooks Headers/Y Pipe and OEM pipe back with a magnaflow muffler. You have smaller pipe so you may wanna do a cat back and get rid of that resonator.

 

[Chrismnj]

Are you keeping your cats? Plans for the rest of the exhaust? I couldn't be happier with my Kooks Headers/Y Pipe and OEM pipe back with a magnaflow muffler. You have smaller pipe so you may wanna do a cat back and get rid of that resonator.

for now I ma keeping it, will see after SC installation, if the number are disappointing might go further.