Mike's 2013 Tahoe Build

[NORCAL SS]

3/8 x 16 and when you drill and tap you can use red locktite and screw it in will never come out.

Or check to see if your axle has a hole on the top of the pad you can attach it there and bolt from under the bracket.

 

[mjenk430]

3/8 x 16 and when you drill and tap you can use red locktite and screw it in will never come out.

Or check to see if your axle has a hole on the top of the pad you can attach it there and bolt from under the bracket.

Yeah, it has the hole in the pad. I thought about that, but was afraid it might look ghetto. Might just do it though, I hate drilling holes, never seem to be able to find a sharp bit.

 

[NORCAL SS]

wont be ghetto and works perfect.

 

[mjenk430]

Been busy today. Finished the free travel mod on the drivers side and installed the button bumpstops in the axle pad.

Shortened my links to 2-3/4" and replaced the sway bar end links with 1/2" grade 8. And added blue locktite to everything.

With a full tank of gas she now sits at:

FL: 34-1/8" FR: 34-3/8"
RL: 33-7/8" RR: 34-1/8"

Basically a 1/4" lower in the back than the front. Still need to get an alignment. After that, I'll tweak on the links to get it perfectly level, front to back.

Just eyeballing the front, it looks like the front is cambered in at the top. With the drop spindles, I didn't realize they would effect camber, thought that was only if changed to shorter springs. Is there enough adjustment in the factory a-arms for the alignment shop to adjust it or am I going to have to install a camber kit? I know when I jacked up my Sport Trac I had to buy special washers for the top a-arm to get it back in check.

She rides much nicer now and the compressor barely cuts on at all. I actually have a slight bit of tire rub in the rear when going around corners at speed. They are rubbing the inside plastic fender well in one little spot on both sides. Anybody got any handy tricks to persuade the plastic fender well out of the way?

 

[NORCAL SS]

Drop spindles always change camber as well as drop struts and springs .You dont need a camber kit it will align fine. More than enough adjustment ther. Also when the camber gets sucked in the truck will lift up a little in the front.

Rear you will need to trim the plastic which on the 24s will need to more since taller tire.

 

[mjenk430]

Got it aligned today. Here's the spec sheet if anyone is interested.



Kinda funny, when the technician was done he pulled it out front where I was and looked at the DIC to get the mileage, started pushing buttons and he looked confused. He asked the other technician walking by how do you get it off of the tripometer and onto the odometer. The other guy told him it is on the odometer, at 800 and some odd miles.

Also, I took the roof rack of today to see what it would look like, still undecided. Not sure the best way to cover up the holes attractively and seal it from the elements.

 

[NORCAL SS]

measure the front im curious how much it went up now that camber was taken out.

 

[mjenk430]

3/4 tank of gas

FL 34 3/8" FR 34 5/8"
RL 34 1/8" RR 34 3/8"

The whole truck is exactly 1/4" higher than it was last night, that's interesting, I understand the front going up slightly with the corrected camber. I guess the back is due to a little less gas in the tank and maybe more air in the shocks ??????

 

[NORCAL SS]

yeah normal for corrected camber. Rear try another 3/16 longer on links shoudl do it.

 

[Goodinblack]

Truck looks great.

I used a heat gun to reshape my plastic fender liners.

You have to watch for a change in the shininess of the plastic....when it does push on it. I used a piece of wood contoured round.

Also, unless you want to sit there a hold it till it cools..... have a water hose near. I heated mine, shaped it, held it there, and blasted it with cold water to instantly "freeze" the desired shape.

From my Walkie Talkie