Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[Matthew Jeschke]

Looking Good!
You should plan on a set of long tube headers and free flow exhaust (doesn't have to be loud).
That will help you with your plan to maximize TQ and fuel mileage.

I found a set on craigslist for 100$.. should have snagged them...

discovered a snafu. I pushed the trust bearing backwards on last hit instead of forwards, leaving slack in crank to front of motor instead of back. not sure if is a big issue or not. I assume they prefer slack to back so pressure plate has more play when fully assembled?

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[Matthew Jeschke]

ah Sheit! After all that work, it maybe the heads are a write off. I dropped them off at the machine shop. They need $700 worth of machine work. One of the water jackets is corroded pretty bad (I didn't notice stupid me). They quoted me up to $700 to get them rebuild. At this point I'm wondering if there's a good set of aftermarket heads that might meet my goals and I just bolt the suckers on.

This build is NOT a racing build. It's a low end power build, that preferably doesn't sacrifice power up top from factory. I'm going to tow, overland, and road trip with it. Must get decent mileage (if there is such a thing with 6.0). I'm asking a lot but think this is basically describing a low end torque motor, not a high revving setup. One last requirement, MUST RUN ON 87 octane. The mountains where I go sell nothing else.

All the aftermarket parts companies seem to cater to and market for high revving builds. Any idea who makes good heads for low rev toque motor?

 

[Tonyrodz]

ah Sheit! After all that work, it maybe the heads are a write off. I dropped them off at the machine shop. They need $700 worth of machine work. One of the water jackets is corroded pretty bad (I didn't notice stupid me). They quoted me up to $700 to get them rebuild. At this point I'm wondering if there's a good set of aftermarket heads that might meet my goals and I just bolt the suckers on.

This build is NOT a racing build. It's a low end power build, that preferably doesn't sacrifice power up top from factory. I'm going to tow, overland, and road trip with it. Must get decent mileage (if there is such a thing with 6.0). I'm asking a lot but think this is basically describing a low end torque motor, not a high revving setup. One last requirement, MUST RUN ON 87 octane. The mountains where I go sell nothing else.

All the aftermarket parts companies seem to cater to and market for high revving builds. Any idea who makes good heads for low rev toque motor?

Why not just buy a set of used oem heads? Can't be that expensive--then go from there.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

The factory heads rebuilt were 265$ on ebay a piece.

I got mavhine shop to knock off $150 so while isnt cheap is cheaper than alternative.

I also contacted roget vinci who made my cam.. he said ultimate build for me would be with AFR mongoose 210cc heads. I found those but were 2400$ haha

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Todays progress

Got cam installed. Dounle checking my sanity. I have timing marks aligned correctly? I looked in book about a dozen times to nake sure haha

Also first motor I built had blown up since timing gear came off cam. Not taking any chances here using blue locktight on those bolts despite manual doesnt call for it. I used the locktight on:

cam thrust plate
cam gear
oil pump because why not.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

A few setbacks today *sigh*. First the heads. I got them figured out. The AFR set / Mongoose 205cc would be BAD ass. Roger Vinci who made my cam said they'd be good for 25 hp on my build. Although that's $100 per HP haha Maybe SOMEDAY, I dream more. I called back the machine shop and they said they'd take $550 to rebuild the heads so I'm going with the 317s I cleaned up.

Now for the latest blunder. Went to install piston rings. Also the c-clips I ordered were wrong size too omg fml haha. My pistons are GM Part #88894241. Literally OEM pistons, direct replacements for factory LQ9 as seen in Escalade from years 2003-2006. I ordered a re-ring kit from summit racing based off a 2003 Escalade. I also explained I'm building the motor per that spec w/ all factory parts (minus valvetrain). We found the ones I ordered. Well.... Seems I have another odd casting / GM part number AND OR the parts catalog from Sealed Power on SummitRacing.com is wrong. Per build specs for LS2/LQ9 or 2003 Escalade 6.0 SummitRacing.com specs rings of 1.5mm / 1.5mm / 3.0mm and that's what I ordered.

Turns out my pistons are 1.2mm / 1.5mm / 2.5mm. No clue why. It's a GM part number, but everything on SummitRacing.com specs otherwise. They were SUPER helpful when I called back in and extended my return window for the rings. The guy seemed to think there was indeed a few pistons made with those size ring groves. That said and done set me back $80 more for the stupid odd size piston rings.

Long story short... if you do this, buy a rod, piston kit, and or with the crank. Don't buy the parts separately or reuse factory rods. I'm spending WAY more time and effort to do it with inferior parts. It cost a bit more but damn what a PITA for inferior parts

 

[fasteddy]

$700 to rebuild heads? and you supply the springs and not even CNC ported? No way.
I'd shop around......

Maybe $400 if they put in new valves and you give them the springs.

You're brave to build the engine.....I'm praying for ya.

And progress is looking good!

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

haha thanks, the heades needed welded up as somw of the water jackets had corroded really bad. They needed a stud removed as well. I am not sure if they were replacing the exhaust valves but they at lwast all needed extensive clwaning up as pitted pretty bad.

I do think was $$$ they cut down to 550 but still.. that said I wouldnt go anywhere else in tucson. I interviewed a handful of shops most didn't even know a screwdriver from a hammer. Let along how to balance an LS engine. Wouldnt let them within a mile of my heads.

This same shop balanced my crank and pistons for 200$. They did a great job so kind of a break even / listtle pricey overall. But they are super nice and damn do they know their stuff. Couldnt stump em on anything haha. If you are in town def look them up, it is called racers edge.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Killing time waiting for piston rings to come in and the heads to get finished up. Decided to pick up some high temperature paint and paint up the front cover along with oil pan. Turned out pretty good

I need to knock that seal out of the front cover though and install the new one. My manual says to pay somebody else to do it. Surely it cannot be that hard?

Also is there no retainer for the back of the cam at the back of the block? or are the thrust plate and cam gear only things holding it in place? I used lock tight on both as am a bit fearful of that.

 

[fasteddy]

OK......Heads needed to be welded? Waterjackets? Some of those places you can't even get too.
How many welds? If its more than 1 (and don't take this the wrong way) I would just throw those heads away.
Aluminum is very delicate to weld on. How do you test their welds? Validation of repair work is always critical.

Its not worth the risk of putting them on only to have a nagging small coolant leak.
Will they at least warranty against leaks?

I don't even like welded blocks and iron is much easier.

All your external parts look very pretty! Awesome Job!

In answer to your very deep cam question....I have no idea. I'm not an engine builder, thats a pretty specialized skill.
I buy defined short blocks, long blocks and slam them in. I've done heads and cam but not in an empty block.

You need an engine builder mentor.....someone who can help you navigate the process.
Maybe LS1Tech......lots of 6.0L guys over there....camaros & some trucks.
Or youtube.....always good for education....some take questions
(5) How To Build An LS Engine - Assembly Part 1 - YouTube