Minor performance mods help.

[iamdub]

Allow me to offer this based on personal experience. Go to Bankspower.com and research part #64322, their Pedal Monster with iDash Super Gauge. $574.00. Watch their customer videos to see their amazement. It is completely plug and play. No change to your tune, etc. Uses all the power already in the engine. Moves all the response of the engine up into the first half of the pedal travel. 3 levels of performance increase, with 10 increments in each level. You will not realize you are driving the same Tahoe. My 2007 PPV with 187,000 miles is a completely different vehicle now.
Spohn Suspension: Spohn.net, offers a $99.00 front end lift kit, using spacers at both ends of the strut. I rebuilt my rear suspension with their products: world class parts. Serviceable and red powder coated.
Now you have $300.00 left to spend.

I'd put $574 towards an actual tune which, among many honest benefits, would fix the sloppy factory throttle and transmission tuning. Paying that amount for what is essentially a placebo is absurd. Pressing the pedal is free! Quicker and snappier throttle response through the same factory slow and slipping shift characteristics will only kill the trans sooner.

 

[Sandaman]

As @gooffeyguy said, just get a good filter. The factory air box IS a "cold air intake" and you already have it. It will flow more air than what that engine can suck at full throttle at 6,000 RPM. It is NOT a restriction. Sure, it's not as pretty as an expensive aftermarket one, but is appearance for something under a closed hood worth $400? The only functional improvements the factory setup could use is a good seal between the filter box and fender and a smoother duct to the throttle body. The original foam seal is thin and loses it's effectiveness with age, especially after the adhesive fails and the foam falls down, exposing the air box to the hot underhood air. Why would anyone in their right mind drill holes in a box designed to isolate the intake air from the hot engine bay air?! Here's a quick, simple and cheap solution for that in my build thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-68#post-1451013

To give you an idea of how well the factory setup works, my intake air temps are consistently in a range of 1-4 degrees over ambient, depending on cruising or idling. Also, I have an AEM DryFlow filter. K&N bought AEM or AEM bought K&N, so these filters are the same regardless what's embossed on the rubber seal. Just don't get the oiled type. The dry one flows and filters GREAT. I've had it installed for over 50,000 miles and have removed it for cleaning twice with the first time after 20,000 miles at least. The duct to the throttle body was CLEAN, as in, nothing to show a streak when I wiped it and nothing on the paper towel.

The Airaid MIT has been proven to add a few horses but really shines with the meaty growl it produces under throttle. As far as sound, I was satisfied with just the intake growl but I still wanted a louder muffler. You only hear it when the engine is under load, so it's not a nuisance when cruising. To save the cost of the MIT, you can make your own duct from the filter box to the throttle body with PVC or ABS plumbing pipe, some silicone couplers and spray paint. It'll work essentially the same, just won't look as cool.

Thats sounds good. Thank you so much. (Ordered my filter, gonna look into some sizes for the piping MIT and get the muffler changed)

TY

 

[Sandaman]

I'd put $574 towards an actual tune which, among many honest benefits, would fix the sloppy factory throttle and transmission tuning. Paying that amount for what is essentially a placebo is absurd. Pressing the pedal is free! Quicker and snappier throttle response through the same factory slow and slipping shift characteristics will only kill the trans sooner.

Done

TY and TY @gooffeyguy

 

[iamdub]

Done

TY and TY @gooffeyguy

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Cheap fun, eh?!


Speaking of cheap fun, you can get Magnaflow knock-offs for a fraction of the MF price. I don't know how Amazon is in your area, but I got mine for around $32. It's $49 now- still way cheaper than the MF, though.

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Exhaust-P...7AW3YGQHFWP&psc=1&refRID=XHDDHHVCV7AW3YGQHFWP

 

[Sandaman]

Cheap fun, eh?!


Speaking of cheap fun, you can get Magnaflow knock-offs for a fraction of the MF price. I don't know how Amazon is in your area, but I got mine for around $32. It's $49 now- still way cheaper than the MF, though.

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Exhaust-P...7AW3YGQHFWP&psc=1&refRID=XHDDHHVCV7AW3YGQHFWP

Yup it was fun. I need to find a muffler that isnt too loud as there is a fine for exhausts that exceed 90dbs.

TY

 

[iamdub]

Yup it was fun. I need to find a muffler that isnt too loud as there is a fine for exhausts that exceed 90dbs.

TY

The Magnaflow 12589 (or the half-price AP clone: XS2589) is considered the "nearly-stock equivalent" in volume, just with a little more sound character to it. The one I have is one step above that. I didn't want any obtrusive sounds inside when cruising and it served me well. I don't know how they measure for their 90dB limit, but I'd guess that these mufflers are close enough to stock that it wouldn't draw any attention.

 

[Sandaman]

The Magnaflow 12589 (or the half-price AP clone: XS2589) is considered the "nearly-stock equivalent" in volume, just with a little more sound character to it. The one I have is one step above that. I didn't want any obtrusive sounds inside when cruising and it served me well. I don't know how they measure for their 90dB limit, but I'd guess that these mufflers are close enough to stock that it wouldn't draw any attention.

Do you know the diameter of the hole that i should get the muffler(to make sure I get the right size). Then I can go to some random exhaust shop and get some chinese muffler for 100 dollars including fixing. For sure they will ask like a 150 but I know how cheap these mufflers are so Ill do some extreme bargaining. This will be my Xmas gift to myself haha.

After that maybe end of jan I will lift the front maybe 2 inches(with shocks+spring) and then in feb change rear shocks+springs for better rebuildable ones. Almost 820 dollars so i have to spread it out haha. I dont know if a spacer lift is good enough.

Getting a tune is expensive for now. its almost 540 dollars. And I dont know how good they are. These tuning places here cant be trusted.

Also the rubber boots on my front axle are broken (all 4 of them). I had changed them a month ago with aftermarket ones. The mechanic said get original GM ones. But the guy who sold it to me said it never happened before.

Also theres an issue with the service airbag light (which I cannot read even though the mechanics used expensive obd scanners)

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.

 

[iamdub]

Do you know the diameter of the hole that i should get the muffler(to make sure I get the right size). Then I can go to some random exhaust shop and get some chinese muffler for 100 dollars including fixing. For sure they will ask like a 150 but I know how cheap these mufflers are so Ill do some extreme bargaining. This will be my Xmas gift to myself haha.

After that maybe end of jan I will lift the front maybe 2 inches(with shocks+spring) and then in feb change rear shocks+springs for better rebuildable ones. Almost 820 dollars so i have to spread it out haha. I dont know if a spacer lift is good enough.

Getting a tune is expensive for now. its almost 540 dollars. And I dont know how good they are. These tuning places here cant be trusted.

Also the rubber boots on my front axle are broken (all 4 of them). I had changed them a month ago with aftermarket ones. The mechanic said get original GM ones. But the guy who sold it to me said it never happened before.

Also theres an issue with the service airbag light (which I cannot read even though the mechanics used expensive obd scanners)

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.

The factory pipe is 2.75". Other than a muffler designed to be a stock replacement, you're not gonna find a 2.75" "performance" muffler. They'll be 3". I've always slid the factory pipe inside the 3" diameter muffler ends, centered it, and welded it in. When centered, the gap is only 1/8" at most. No need for 3"-to-2.75" adapters. The only thing additional you may need for the muffler is a small piece of pipe to fill in if the new muffler is shorter than the factory one (likely, it will be). For a real budget install, you can use clamps if you can't weld. Buy the muffler and pipe as needed, the clamps and a hack saw and you'll be done in an hour, tops.

A spacer lift will be fine if you just need a little more clearance and the stock spring and shock characteristics are good as-is.

 

[Sandaman]

The factory pipe is 2.75". Other than a muffler designed to be a stock replacement, you're not gonna find a 2.75" "performance" muffler. They'll be 3". I've always slid the factory pipe inside the 3" diameter muffler ends, centered it, and welded it in. When centered, the gap is only 1/8" at most. No need for 3"-to-2.75" adapters. The only thing additional you may need for the muffler is a small piece of pipe to fill in if the new muffler is shorter than the factory one (likely, it will be). For a real budget install, you can use clamps if you can't weld. Buy the muffler and pipe as needed, the clamps and a hack saw and you'll be done in an hour, tops.

A spacer lift will be fine if you just need a little more clearance and the stock spring and shock characteristics are good as-is.

Should I get an oil catch can ?
I can see one in your pic.

TY

 

[iamdub]

Should I get an oil catch can ?
I can see one in your pic.

TY

YES! These engines need them!