So those are spacers for a front and rear lift?
I assume that's UAE dollars? If so, that's a great deal including labor!
Also i need some guidance for the oil catch can install. Looks like i have to use the old hose and cut it to use the ends.
TY
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So those are spacers for a front and rear lift?
I assume that's UAE dollars? If so, that's a great deal including labor!
I converted the price to American dollars. haha
Just lift in front
Also i need some guidance for the oil catch can install. Looks like i have to use the old hose and cut it to use the ends.
TY
Ah, okay. I thought you decided to lift the front and rear. The rear is lifted with coil spacers and/or lift coils.
Definitely go with the teflon spacer lift. $137 parts and labor from a shop isn't bad considering it's about an hour job. No need to take the struts apart to install a coil spacer when you can accomplish the same with a lower bolt-in spacer. Besides, the ones that go on top or bottom don't affect the shock travel or anything.
Did you ever determine how much lift you want in the front?
Super easy. You connect nipple on the driver side valve cover (at the back near the firewall) to the inlet of the catch can. You connect the outlet of the catch can to the nipple at the top center of the intake manifold where the valve cover was originally routed to. How you connect these is up to you. Either use fuel-rated hose (most catch cans come with hose) or you can modify the stock hoses and use those. I think I used a combination of both.
BE CAREFUL with the fitting on top of the manifold. It will snap very easily. I support it from moving while I use a razor knife to slice the hose lengthwise (using multiple cuts) then peel it off the nipple. When slipping the new hose onto it, use a little oil to help it slide onto the fitting and support the fitting while you gently push the hose onto it. Treat it like its made of tissue paper.
Post a pic or link for the catch can you have.
That's what I did. I cut a couple inches out of the factory line at the elbow, basically removing the elbow, and just slipped the rubber hose over and used hose clamps.The catch can is the one you recommended. That looks like a fake mishimoto.
The top part is where I think Ill have problems. Because I saw some videos and the only way to connect the hose is to cut it and push the new hose onto it.
TY
That's what I did. I cut a couple inches out of the factory line at the elbow, basically removing the elbow, and just slipped the rubber hose over and used hose clamps.
Been like that for 2 years, no problems.
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Super easy. You connect nipple on the driver side valve cover (at the back near the firewall) to the inlet of the catch can. You connect the outlet of the catch can to the nipple at the top center of the intake manifold where the valve cover was originally routed to. How you connect these is up to you. Either use fuel-rated hose (most catch cans come with hose) or you can modify the stock hoses and use those. I think I used a combination of both.
BE CAREFUL with the fitting on top of the manifold. It will snap very easily. I support it from moving while I use a razor knife to slice the hose lengthwise (using multiple cuts) then peel it off the nipple. When slipping the new hose onto it, use a little oil to help it slide onto the fitting and support the fitting while you gently push the hose onto it. Treat it like its made of tissue paper.
Post a pic or link for the catch can you have.
This is the one i got. looks like fake mishimoto. But still connecting thing. I have to cut the tube to connect the hoses. think 10mm size hose ID.
TY
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That one will work fine. Get that stainless steel scrubber pad and it'll work even better.
Find the center of the scrub pad, it'll be like a hole where you can poke your finger through. Spread it open and slip it around that disc with the holes in it. Tuck the pad completely under that disc. It'll fill in all of the space between that brass filter and disc. When you screw the top back onto the reservoir, you'll have to push all of the little strands of the scrub pad inside to keep them out of the threads. I used a tiny flat head screwdriver. It's a little tedious, and is why getting a catch can with a drain valve is recommended. It's so you don't have to keep removing the reservoir and dealing with the strands every time you drain the catch can.
You can see my catch can in my sig pic. I simply place a cup under the can, in front of the power steering pump, open the valve until it quits draining, close the valve and wipe it clean.